Rebuilding head
Hey there, if you check my previous post you'll see I had problems with my GSR head and wasn't able to choose either to rebuild it or to put an ITR one on it...
I finally took the "wise" decision of rebuilding my GSR one.
I want to make sure Im doing a good job there, while the head is off.
Question is: What do I need as for parts, and what brand(s) do you guys trust more for each of these parts....
I was thinking I would need: New valves (heard titanium were good from a friend, but you guys here turned me down on that, wanna know why they are bad?) -- Also valve springs, cams, cam gears... Is there anything I am missing here?
And while the head is off, anything I should do to the block? Clean it? Polish it? Is there a way to check state of piston rings without doing a compression test?
Last of all, If possible I'd also like to know if I made the right choice, I mean, not to get a ITR head. If I would, anything in the block I would have needed to improve? or the ECU even?
Thanks for your time everyone. Please remember I'd like a clear advice on each parts I should get, if possible.
If you want to view my last thread about this click here
I finally took the "wise" decision of rebuilding my GSR one.
I want to make sure Im doing a good job there, while the head is off.
Question is: What do I need as for parts, and what brand(s) do you guys trust more for each of these parts....
I was thinking I would need: New valves (heard titanium were good from a friend, but you guys here turned me down on that, wanna know why they are bad?) -- Also valve springs, cams, cam gears... Is there anything I am missing here?
And while the head is off, anything I should do to the block? Clean it? Polish it? Is there a way to check state of piston rings without doing a compression test?
Last of all, If possible I'd also like to know if I made the right choice, I mean, not to get a ITR head. If I would, anything in the block I would have needed to improve? or the ECU even?
Thanks for your time everyone. Please remember I'd like a clear advice on each parts I should get, if possible.
If you want to view my last thread about this click here
well titanium would be for cost reasons, if you really think you want new valves go with ferrea they make .5 & 1.0 mm oversize as well as manley, both very good but $$$$$$$$. you may want to consider the valve seat job you want: basic 3, 5 .......... or radial(yeah baby). you may want new retainers and locks. a clean up mill, or more for performance, some port and polish possibly, you will need new valve seals, cam seals, have the guides measured or relpaced with bronze ones
as far as the rings go you can do a leakdown test.
but if you think you have enough $$ for titanium vavles, you should think of rebuilding the bottom end,
what do you mean by polishing the block, that doesn't make any sense unless its a new hp secret
as far as the rings go you can do a leakdown test.
but if you think you have enough $$ for titanium vavles, you should think of rebuilding the bottom end,
what do you mean by polishing the block, that doesn't make any sense unless its a new hp secret
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by da9project »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean by polishing the block, that doesn't make any sense unless its a new hp secret</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me not doing sens actually does make sens
haha
Sorry I thought a block was "polishable" too, my mistake!
But thanks for the heads up on the head. I have a friend who has titanium valves never used - he says he bought em for 50$ each? does that make any sens?
Me not doing sens actually does make sens
hahaSorry I thought a block was "polishable" too, my mistake!
But thanks for the heads up on the head. I have a friend who has titanium valves never used - he says he bought em for 50$ each? does that make any sens?
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,343
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From: Los Angeles.
I would say that it was wise not to go with ITR head. If you intend to do a head swap, I would go with a B16 head since it's nearly identical to the ITR except that the ports are alittle smaller. With the money you'd save you can port/polish the head and get the thing blueprinted. However....
If you intend to stick with your GSR head, rebuild with a OEM Honda top end kit. I used Fel-Pro, no complaints but you get more peace of mind going with OEM.
As for the valves/springs/retainers, you really dont need to mess with that stuff unless you plan throw in some cams in the mix. I would say your better off taking your head in for a port and polish job and a 3 angle valve job. Do your homework though, any shop can do the job but only few have the experience and the resources to do it right. The shop should be able to provide you with bench flow testing results for your records.
As for the rings, to visually inspect it would require you to remove the entire bottom end. If you're gonna do that, you might as well do a full engine rebuild since you're in there. If you just want to check comp, then do a comp test.
Research though, if you do your homework you'll learn what works and what doesnt.
If you intend to stick with your GSR head, rebuild with a OEM Honda top end kit. I used Fel-Pro, no complaints but you get more peace of mind going with OEM.
As for the valves/springs/retainers, you really dont need to mess with that stuff unless you plan throw in some cams in the mix. I would say your better off taking your head in for a port and polish job and a 3 angle valve job. Do your homework though, any shop can do the job but only few have the experience and the resources to do it right. The shop should be able to provide you with bench flow testing results for your records.
As for the rings, to visually inspect it would require you to remove the entire bottom end. If you're gonna do that, you might as well do a full engine rebuild since you're in there. If you just want to check comp, then do a comp test.
Research though, if you do your homework you'll learn what works and what doesnt.
Thanks for the info! Now I know where Im going.
I searched the archieved threads and looks like my best shot would be put a SIR ehad with Type R pistons.
Will go for that :D
I searched the archieved threads and looks like my best shot would be put a SIR ehad with Type R pistons.
Will go for that :D
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If you rebuild your gsr head, go with oem honda top end kit. Otherwise, if you (for some reason) get an itr head, you will lose compression.
Stock gsr cr - 10:1
Gsr Bottom end w/ ITR Head - 9.8:1
" " w/ B16 Head - 9.8:1
Just go with your basic 3-angle valve job, milled .010" and replace your valve seals with honda, and buy some new valve guides..
Stock gsr cr - 10:1
Gsr Bottom end w/ ITR Head - 9.8:1
" " w/ B16 Head - 9.8:1
Just go with your basic 3-angle valve job, milled .010" and replace your valve seals with honda, and buy some new valve guides..
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From: Left Coast : High Altitude, Top Floor
same here! BUT, i've heard about going with the b16 head and it doing wonders. People name the 16 head/18 block the "Poorman's" ITR motor. I always thought it added more punch?..?
I hope it does, otherwise I'll be wasting my money =/
that's why Im gonna do my homework first...
Anyone here on HT who has a B16 Head on a B18C block, please comment
that's why Im gonna do my homework first...
Anyone here on HT who has a B16 Head on a B18C block, please comment
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Come on everyone who has experienced or currently drivers a b18 block with a b16 head give me comments pleaaaase

Especially if you have Type R pistons added in the block.
Please please please thank you
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