Body Work Repair HELP!!! Front End
I recently purchased a 96 Hatch from a friend and the front end is crash. The radiator support needs to be replace along and the bumper support needs to be pull. If anyone had this done before How much did you guys paid???

Modified by freeagent32 at 9:10 PM 5/5/2005

Modified by freeagent32 at 9:10 PM 5/5/2005
if you can spot weld or know someone who spot welds, you can do that rad. support install by yourself. However pulling the frame rails is going to be a bit harder. If you can get a comealong and get the car against a curb. Tie the comealong to a tree and start pulling things strait... I've done this many times when i didnt have access to a hydrolic puller.
you're going to have to take alot of measurements, and do alot of hammering but it'll save you a load of money.
you're going to have to take alot of measurements, and do alot of hammering but it'll save you a load of money.
I did this for a buddy just a bit ago(search my name in the apperence page) if you find a guy to do it on the side it wont be too badbut if you try and save yourself some money DO NOT drill out the rad support untill you have pulled the rails back to were they need to be and a come along will not get it back to were you need it, with a rack you can weld on tabs exactly were you need to pull unlike a come along
i used to use a hydrolic rack all the time, with the proper attachments i can do just the same with a comealong... not to mention because of using ties, i dont have to tighten it to get just a bit more pressure, and i can pop pressure it by quickly standing on it.
I can do just as nice of a job with a comealong as i can with a hydrolic rack.
Also, because the radiator supports are so flexable they tend to stretch when they are bent up. So cutting the rad. support off isnt too bad of an idea, unless you know how to shrink the metal, but even then its not precise.
The frame rails are also very easy to figure out where they should be pulled to because of the way that they are made, and the distinct shape. (hince the name rail) if the rail is lower then it should be you can pull on it with the comealong while using a bottle jack with a piece of wood to get it to bend the proper way. if the rail is high, a good way to fix that is by getting a piece of train rail (i know its not an every day tool, but think of what else you could use) and tie a mini comealong to that to pursuade it to bend downword.
I'm kind of tired, i'll look over this again to make sure it makes sence in the morning.
I can do just as nice of a job with a comealong as i can with a hydrolic rack.
Also, because the radiator supports are so flexable they tend to stretch when they are bent up. So cutting the rad. support off isnt too bad of an idea, unless you know how to shrink the metal, but even then its not precise.
The frame rails are also very easy to figure out where they should be pulled to because of the way that they are made, and the distinct shape. (hince the name rail) if the rail is lower then it should be you can pull on it with the comealong while using a bottle jack with a piece of wood to get it to bend the proper way. if the rail is high, a good way to fix that is by getting a piece of train rail (i know its not an every day tool, but think of what else you could use) and tie a mini comealong to that to pursuade it to bend downword.
I'm kind of tired, i'll look over this again to make sure it makes sence in the morning.
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Man i dunno looks like ur right side strut tower is pushed back cause the motor looks like on th divers side its pushed back andy pics from the front of the car straight on?
Is there a possibility that you could take three-four more pictures. I'd like one from right above the engine, and if you can, lay a yard stick across the front of the car right behind the radiator support, and right in front of the firewall.
Also, take a right and left profile shot. make sure that they are taken from the same distance from each wheel and pretty much have the camera lined up with the hub
And last a strait on from the front about three feet away with a yardstick across the front.
if you cant take them with the yard stick(s) that is fine, however it would he helpful. Anything to judge measurements with would be great.
Also, take a right and left profile shot. make sure that they are taken from the same distance from each wheel and pretty much have the camera lined up with the hub
And last a strait on from the front about three feet away with a yardstick across the front.
if you cant take them with the yard stick(s) that is fine, however it would he helpful. Anything to judge measurements with would be great.
That's definitely repairable. I bought my car like this:


Now it looks like this, but the engine has to come back out because of the fucktard that built it for me...



Now it looks like this, but the engine has to come back out because of the fucktard that built it for me...

The main thing with doing your own work is taking time and being patient with it
one mis-measurement and your lights won't line up or fenders or all the lines and gaps will be different sizes
one mis-measurement and your lights won't line up or fenders or all the lines and gaps will be different sizes
actually, with cars these days (specially 90+ hondas) you would be supprised with how much things on the frame can be off with the body lines, and headlights still being right on.
I really don't have the time to the work my self. I had a friend that works in a body shop and he told be it would cost me about $1200 to fix it (that's me buying all the part like radiator support, etc.).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 cam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's definitely repairable. I bought my car like this:


Now it looks like this, but the engine has to come back out because of the fucktard that built it for me...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
HOW MUCH DID YOU PAID FOR YOUR REPAIR???


Now it looks like this, but the engine has to come back out because of the fucktard that built it for me...
</TD></TR></TABLE>HOW MUCH DID YOU PAID FOR YOUR REPAIR???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thehatchninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tie the front part to a tree and put it in reverse....make sure you have some slack and back up until the rope catches.....repeat as necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol i can see some jackass doing this and the tree breaking and falling on his car.
hahahahah
lol i can see some jackass doing this and the tree breaking and falling on his car.
hahahahah
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eric416 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would it be suitable to drill and bolt on the rad support instead of spot welding? Im doin the same work right now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it would work. another thing you could do is bolt it in place and have it exactly where you want it remove a bolt... spot weld... and contine doing it that way. now that i think about it... you could also bolt it in place drive to a mufflershop and have them bolt it in place. I know a guy around here he's awesome. Most people who oun and run their oun are pretty cool... with exceptions of course. Its worth a shot.
it would work. another thing you could do is bolt it in place and have it exactly where you want it remove a bolt... spot weld... and contine doing it that way. now that i think about it... you could also bolt it in place drive to a mufflershop and have them bolt it in place. I know a guy around here he's awesome. Most people who oun and run their oun are pretty cool... with exceptions of course. Its worth a shot.
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