I posted this on a few forums trying to get some ideas. Please let me know if you have ANY idea on how I can fix this.

I swear, the way my car runs depends on the day. It will run like complete ***, then 10 minutes later be fine for a few minutes, then you never know what's next. I took it out last night, and on WOT, it was incredibly boggy and had almost NO power, on 10 lbs of boost, the car would barely get out of it's own way. All of a sudden the power i spent a few grand to acheive kicks in, and all hell breaks loose, total traction loss in 2nd, and a ton of wheel hop, both my front corner lights fell out. The car shut off, and I pulled off into a parking lot, started the car back up running like a go-kart and proceeded to drive home. I was stumped! Took it home and it had a chronic low idle, around 800, occasionally dipping down to 600-500 where it would sputter and barely keep on it's feet. Quite a low idle for a car with a pretty big cam and major portwork. The only code it flashed was a code 9 (cylinder position sensor), like always. I figured out, I need to get this code 9 off of there. Like I said, I have had 4 distributors put on the car, 3 different pm6 ecu's and it still will not stop flashing code 9. Like I've said before, it has flashed 9 ever since I did the mpfi swap from the original dpfi set up.
Eveyone told me to keep switching the wires from the distributor, as if they are backwards it will severly retard the timing. Now here's the scary part. I let the car cool off for a few hours last night, went out and started it. It started right up with a 1700 rpm idle and sounded very healthy. So out of curiouisity, i turned the car off, switched the 2 dizzy wires to the OTHER possible postion and started it up. It ran the exact same. Sounded healthy with a 1700 rpm idle. Now that is very messed up. I think the only possible explanation would be when the pins for the mpfi swap were switched in the ecu clip, maybe a pin isn't making a good connection with the ecu somehow. I plan on stopping by the junkiyard and picking up another ECU clip today.
SO here's the facts...
1. Car shuts off after being beat on. Starts right back up.
2. Power comes and goes in spurts.
3. Really low idle almost stalling at all possible fuel settings on safc and turboedit.
4. If left alone for a while car starts up fine and runs fine, only after it is driven it runs shitty.
5. There is no difference in the combination of wires from the dizzy in the way the car runs.
So I belive I could have a few problems
1. ECU pin clip
2. ECU itself (but not likely)
3. Wiring harness (i'd like to find a complete SI harness, but no luck there)
4. Fuel pump (stock pump on 10 psi and 450cc injectors can't be good)
I have no idea what my problem is. Someone with any idea, please help me out!!!!!!!!!


Modified by turbohb91 at 6:46 AM 4/29/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbohb91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">SO here's the facts...
1. Car shuts off after being beat on. Starts right back up.
2. Power comes and goes in spurts.
3. Really low idle almost stalling at all possible fuel settings on safc and turboedit.
4. If left alone for a while car starts up fine and runs fine, only after it is driven it runs shitty.

Modified by turbohb91 at 6:46 AM 4/29/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

i don't want to sound like a jackass, but check your coolant level