weird thing happens at 1500 rpm
i just swaped a B16 in my EG hatch. it idles fine and revs fine but when i give it about 1500 rpm it acts werid. theres a video of it.. i chaged tps, icav,iav, and map. timing is dead on. someone help please. thanks
-kyle
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D
-kyle
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its bled. i am getting new 02 sensor today.</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool.i had a very similar problem with my hatch-it ran fine at any RPM except right around 2000-2500RPM.it doesn't make sense that it would be the O2,since it isn't RPM dependent,but it solved my problem.
Chris
cool.i had a very similar problem with my hatch-it ran fine at any RPM except right around 2000-2500RPM.it doesn't make sense that it would be the O2,since it isn't RPM dependent,but it solved my problem.
Chris
02 i bet, my car and a couple of my friends cars did something like that....
I changed mine and my car ran 100x better...smoother too.
It pretty much sounds the same as mine did so i am betting thats your problem....
good luck, nice swap
I changed mine and my car ran 100x better...smoother too.
It pretty much sounds the same as mine did so i am betting thats your problem....
good luck, nice swap
i have a brand new o2 sensor and i also blocked off the IAC (because i knwo its fucked)
well it dose the same thing,me and kyle cant figuer this one out
well it dose the same thing,me and kyle cant figuer this one out
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16 delSlow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a brand new o2 sensor and i also blocked off the IAC (because i knwo its fucked)
well it dose the same thing,me and kyle cant figuer this one out
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so your IAC is fucked and you wonder why your car is runnign weird?!
Chris
well it dose the same thing,me and kyle cant figuer this one out
</TD></TR></TABLE>so your IAC is fucked and you wonder why your car is runnign weird?!
Chris
mines not i tried 3 diff. iacv's all were in good shape and one was like brand new. still messed up. i will install my 02 sensor later today and see if that fixes it. thanks
-kyle
-kyle
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so your IAC is fucked and you wonder why your car is runnign weird?!
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>UGHh..i said its blocked off..that means its not fuctnal.meaning that it cant have anything to do with the IAC.
I use the TB scrue to ajust the idle..
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>UGHh..i said its blocked off..that means its not fuctnal.meaning that it cant have anything to do with the IAC.
I use the TB scrue to ajust the idle..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16 delSlow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">UGHh..i said its blocked off..that means its not fuctnal.meaning that it cant have anything to do with the IAC.
I use the TB scrue to ajust the idle..</TD></TR></TABLE>
what i'm saying is that you've disabled the sensor that regulates the idle of your car,and you wonder why you're having problems.turn on an electrical accessory that puts a higher load on the alternator?it lets more air pass to maintain the idle.when you push in the clutch and the revs drop very quickly,it flows more air until the idle levels out,to keep the engine from stalling.
my point is that you've disabled a part that is directly related to your problem,and you're wondering what the problem is?
the idle screw,in my experience,cannot flow enough air to maintain a good idle.it's meant to work in conjunction with the IAC.the only way i've been able to get a car to idle and not stall(with the idle screw fully open) with the IAC disabled is to tighten the throttle cable slightly to the point that the butterfly stays open a small bit.use this method without the IAC to get the car to idle at the right RPM and you get problems.higher electrical loads cause the motor to bog because there's nothing to allow more air to let it maintain the idle.you're getting the same amount of air regardless of what you actually need.
all i'm saying is fix your broken parts if you want your car to run right.if your fuel pump is fucked up,do you remove it,then wonder why your car doesn't run?
Chris
I use the TB scrue to ajust the idle..</TD></TR></TABLE>
what i'm saying is that you've disabled the sensor that regulates the idle of your car,and you wonder why you're having problems.turn on an electrical accessory that puts a higher load on the alternator?it lets more air pass to maintain the idle.when you push in the clutch and the revs drop very quickly,it flows more air until the idle levels out,to keep the engine from stalling.
my point is that you've disabled a part that is directly related to your problem,and you're wondering what the problem is?
the idle screw,in my experience,cannot flow enough air to maintain a good idle.it's meant to work in conjunction with the IAC.the only way i've been able to get a car to idle and not stall(with the idle screw fully open) with the IAC disabled is to tighten the throttle cable slightly to the point that the butterfly stays open a small bit.use this method without the IAC to get the car to idle at the right RPM and you get problems.higher electrical loads cause the motor to bog because there's nothing to allow more air to let it maintain the idle.you're getting the same amount of air regardless of what you actually need.
all i'm saying is fix your broken parts if you want your car to run right.if your fuel pump is fucked up,do you remove it,then wonder why your car doesn't run?
Chris
im almost 100 percent sure its the IAC my si did the same thing at 1500 rpms.. and sounded just like your car on the video ... it seems after a while the lil basterds start gettin sticky... best way to find out is by disconnecting it while the car is on.. if your idle drops.. or stalls.. its fine but if your car stays the same... its done for... good luck dude..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm its not my 02 sensor. i cleaned out my iacv like 4 of them same deal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you mean you tried 4 IACVs?if you still had the problem,shouldn't that point to it not being the culprit?then,when you bypass it you still have an idle problem?
Chris
do you mean you tried 4 IACVs?if you still had the problem,shouldn't that point to it not being the culprit?then,when you bypass it you still have an idle problem?
Chris
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do you mean you tried 4 IACVs?if you still had the problem,shouldn't that point to it not being the culprit?then,when you bypass it you still have an idle problem?
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep does the same thing.
do you mean you tried 4 IACVs?if you still had the problem,shouldn't that point to it not being the culprit?then,when you bypass it you still have an idle problem?
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep does the same thing.
i put in a p72 ecu last night and i got 3 codes. iacv (code 14), vtec sol. (code 21), and 02 heat (code 41)... i tried a bunch of iacv's and nohting happens. i reset the computer everytime. i going to install a vtec sol. today too and i think i crossed 2 wries on my lame *** unv. 02 sensor. i will post an update.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you mean you tried 4 IACVs?if you still had the problem,shouldn't that point to it not being the culprit?then,when you bypass it you still have an idle problem?
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE> thats why i said i bypasd it,mine dose the same thing when its bypased or not.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE> thats why i said i bypasd it,mine dose the same thing when its bypased or not.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, I miss Chicago, but love SD, CA, US of fuckin A
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16 delSlow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a brand new o2 sensor and i also blocked off the IAC (because i knwo its fucked)
well it dose the same thing,me and kyle cant figuer this one out
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what i'm saying is that you've disabled the sensor that regulates the idle of your car,and you wonder why you're having problems.turn on an electrical accessory that puts a higher load on the alternator?it lets more air pass to maintain the idle.when you push in the clutch and the revs drop very quickly,it flows more air until the idle levels out,to keep the engine from stalling.
my point is that you've disabled a part that is directly related to your problem,and you're wondering what the problem is?
the idle screw,in my experience,cannot flow enough air to maintain a good idle.it's meant to work in conjunction with the IAC.the only way i've been able to get a car to idle and not stall(with the idle screw fully open) with the IAC disabled is to tighten the throttle cable slightly to the point that the butterfly stays open a small bit.use this method without the IAC to get the car to idle at the right RPM and you get problems.higher electrical loads cause the motor to bog because there's nothing to allow more air to let it maintain the idle.you're getting the same amount of air regardless of what you actually need.
all i'm saying is fix your broken parts if you want your car to run right.if your fuel pump is fucked up,do you remove it,then wonder why your car doesn't run?
Chris
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Chris you know what your talking about man. B16 delSlow is slow, LOL!
well it dose the same thing,me and kyle cant figuer this one out
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what i'm saying is that you've disabled the sensor that regulates the idle of your car,and you wonder why you're having problems.turn on an electrical accessory that puts a higher load on the alternator?it lets more air pass to maintain the idle.when you push in the clutch and the revs drop very quickly,it flows more air until the idle levels out,to keep the engine from stalling.
my point is that you've disabled a part that is directly related to your problem,and you're wondering what the problem is?
the idle screw,in my experience,cannot flow enough air to maintain a good idle.it's meant to work in conjunction with the IAC.the only way i've been able to get a car to idle and not stall(with the idle screw fully open) with the IAC disabled is to tighten the throttle cable slightly to the point that the butterfly stays open a small bit.use this method without the IAC to get the car to idle at the right RPM and you get problems.higher electrical loads cause the motor to bog because there's nothing to allow more air to let it maintain the idle.you're getting the same amount of air regardless of what you actually need.
all i'm saying is fix your broken parts if you want your car to run right.if your fuel pump is fucked up,do you remove it,then wonder why your car doesn't run?
Chris
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Chris you know what your talking about man. B16 delSlow is slow, LOL!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, I miss Chicago, but love SD, CA, US of fuckin A
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i put in a p72 ecu last night and i got 3 codes. iacv (code 14), vtec sol. (code 21), and 02 heat (code 41)... i tried a bunch of iacv's and nohting happens. i reset the computer everytime. i going to install a vtec sol. today too and i think i crossed 2 wries on my lame *** unv. 02 sensor. i will post an update.</TD></TR></TABLE> Code 21 and 14 are gonna be wiring. You got a factory service manual for this car? Check your wiring bro.
Happy Tuning!
Happy Tuning!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CagedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i put in a p72 ecu and it barly does the 1500 rpm thing now. now its my wiring. thanks HT people</TD></TR></TABLE>
a stock P72 program is horrible for a B16.it will hurt pergormance much more than a stumble at 1500RPM.a P30 is what you need.
Chris
a stock P72 program is horrible for a B16.it will hurt pergormance much more than a stumble at 1500RPM.a P30 is what you need.
Chris
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