i got a 91 honda civic hatch back and my brakes in the front are locking up after driving for a few mins.... my brake pedal builds up alot of presure and then my brakes lock up in the front ... i change the calibers ... brake booster.. master cyclinder and ... porpotion valve.... whats next??? also bled them like 20 times...

 

did you get brake fluid on your pads or rotors? that can cause some major braking issues

 

are your brake lines ok?

 

double check the break lines... may be clogged....

 

When i bled them yea... how would i know if my brakes lines are cloged?

 

PLEASE HELP.

I have a 99 honda civic
No ABS
My front brakes are locking up/sticking afdter a few minutes of driving and they will get hot.
Ive change the mc, brake booster, brake hoses,calipers,caliper basket, pads and proportioning valve. The whole front end is re built now. Im out of oney completely, and still cannot drive my car.

PLEASE GIVE ME SOME THOUGHTS HERE!

 

THE ADJUSTMENT ROD SETTTING NEEDS TO BE CHANGED. THERE IS A CERTIAN WAY TO DO IT.

 

At this point, you may need to revisit your technique in replacing all of those parts. Are they installed in the proper locations, did you bleed the fluid properly, is the prop valve installed in the correct orientation?

Was this issue what caused you to replace those parts in the first place?

I think hatchcrap is referring to the rod going into the booster through the firewall. Did you consult with the service manual or a Hayne's?

 

^^ correct.

this has come up SEVERAL times now.

when you replace the booster or MC, and especially if you dont use an original refurbished part, like using an integra booster in a civic, you WILL have to go thru a proper adjustment.

 

My grandfather's Chevrolet vehicles were prone to having the break lines fail and turn into one way valves. Pressure would build up and not be able to flow backwards.

I don't know if Honda or other brake lines have this defect but it is what comes to mind when I read your post.

 

This. Brake booster adjustment rod needs to be adjusted

 

Always inspect the clearance between the master cylinder piston, and the booster push rod, irregardless of who made it. There was a saying about assumptions.... I don't remember how it goes.

To adjust the booster push rod length in car:

1: Remove the wrist pin from the brake pedal to booster rod. (Preferable)
2: Loosen the 12mm 12 sided nut on the booster rod. (Out of car is easier, but can be done with a pliers as well)

Your pedal should now be disconnected from the booster rod, and free to move.

3: Adjust the booster rod clockwise to lengthen, and counter to shorten. Achieve slack approximately .10-.15". You can check the slack by pushing in on the rod.

4: Tighten the 12mm 12 sided nut and recheck the slack one last time.

5: Reconnect the brake pedal to the booster push rod. This may require adjustment of the front jam nut. TO fix that:

1: Press the brake pedal slightly to insert the wrist pin back into its hole.

2: Loosen the 6mm 6 point jam nut.

3: Turn the brake booster rod using a pliers on the spline part of the rod. This will not affect the previous adjustment as long as the jam nut is tight.

4: Achieve a free play in the pedal to the rod of about .05-.10". Tighten the jam nut.

This adjustment can be checked by wiggling the pedal, and then lightly pressing on it to feel the booster rod hit the master cylinder. This should produce about 1/2-3/4" of total pedal movement before the brakes are applied.

Honda specifications may vary slightly from what I just mentioned, but is appropriate for nearly all brake boosters. Feel free to consult a service manual if you have one.

 

These people are telling you how to fix your issue.

The reason it is happening is because the push rod in the master cylinder is out of adjustment. This doesnt allow the seals in the master cylinder to retract past the needed port inside of the master cylinder to alleviate pressure build up. Therefore, every time you apply the brakes, the pressure increases.

Adjust the push rod correctly as stated above and the issue should go away. I bet your pedal has absolutely zero free-play.

 

Thank you all! We were able to get everything adjusted. Had to take it to a Honda mechanic and got everything fixed.