Alright guys..

Summer is coming up and Ive been going over and over this for a few weeks now..

Im giong to be bringing in some solid money over the summer, and debating on what to do..

A) Finish my All motor setup..
B) Cancle the NA build and go turbo

Current Setup:
B16a2

p&p head
3 angle valve job
AEBS intake manifold
AEM cia
AEM fuel rail
dc 4-1 header
HKS cat back
test pipe
AEM cam gears/pully
Gude stage 2 cams
B&M FPR
62mm TB
-Hondata s200

With that in mind..
A) Finishing my NA = High c/r on a new block(ls or gsr), an-r header into a 2.5 exhast, larger TB, more aggresive cams,..
or
B) Getting the block and keeping the c/r low and boosting it

If i go turbo, will i be able to keep the head how it is or am i gonna have complications with the 3 angle valve job, cams, ect. ?

I would like it to be as reliable as i can, to be able to use as a DD

How much more effort and money would you estimate it would take to go turbo?

Im pretty much just looking for any suggestions!!

THANKS


EDIT:

Hey, another thing..

The thing that will take the most time and cost alot more money would be for me to get a new block..

How reliable and how much power will i still be able to make on my stock block
b16a2


Modified by athoughts at 5:50 PM 4/26/2005

 

Unless you have a lot of cars I've never seen anyone turboed go back to NA....theres just no potential in our little hond engines for NA. Go turbo you have way more potential and will make more HP then you ever will with a fully built NA engine.

I run about 280whp right now and run in the high 12's on a totally stock block. I did it with only $3000. All motor setup has to spend way more to get in the 12's liek that.

Keep eveything you have so far and if you can build the engine with pistons and rods so you can do 350-400HP reliably

 

go turbo and you will never look back......As for your head....you will only see gains from head work on your car regardless of boost or n/a...

best kit on the market http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/hobtukit1.html

 

Do yourself a favor and piece together a kit.

 

Yeah i probably will end up doing so, just gonna save up and buy part by part until ive got enouph to build it!


Anyone eles have any different info!?

 

 

i was N/A at first but now i'm going boost. my reason was after hitting 190hp/136tq, i would have to cough up more money just to make more power. bigger cams, built valvetrain built block etc etc. that amount of money could lead to a good turbo kit that you can piece together for fairly cheap and make alot more power than n/a.

traction will be your only problem though, no more flooring it in 1st or 2nd (or 3rd 4th 5th ) if you go boost.

 

the first time i hit boost in my car i wanted to punch myself in the face for contemplating going n/a. its a whole other world...and it goes pssshhhhtt .

no seriously boost will increase your torque by substantial amounts, which combined with hondas high rpm motors, will make very decent power

 

come join us on the dark side. it will be the best decision you ever made and your car will love you for it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000civicsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">come join us on the dark side. it will be the best decision you ever made and your car will love you for it </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dark side here i come!

 

Congratulations, you made the right choice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94lsboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Congratulations, you made the right choice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

just not in terms of finance...

welcome aboard, just try your best to learn as much from our mistakes as you can rather then learning the expensive way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maveric &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.....As for your head....you will only see gains from head work on your car regardless of boost or n/a... </TD></TR></TABLE>

other people have told me my cams wont work and to put stock ones back in.. ??

 

Depending on those cams, I assume they are all motor cams since that is the route you were taking...you may need to change. All motor cams are designed to make power in specific ranges, and have different lifts and durations than FI cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94lsboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Congratulations, you made the right choice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Hey, another thing..

The thing that will take the most time and cost alot more money would be for me to get a new block..

How reliable and how much power will i still be able to make on my stock block
b16a2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by athoughts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, another thing..

The thing that will take the most time and cost alot more money would be for me to get a new block..

How reliable and how much power will i still be able to make on my stock block
b16a2 </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

bump!

 

 

I'd probably go 10 psi and get a good tune on the stock block. You can go more, but 10 is a good number for me, if it were my car. That should put down about 250 hp probably, maybe more. It depends on the cams

 

defenetly cant run the NA cams huh?

 

Have you ever thought of going K20? It's plenty of money but easier to make power with each mod. A guy put one in an EG hatch and put ITBs on it and tuned it and he made 243 whp. I'd post the link but JDMC is down for some reason.

 

What cams are they. There are some cams that are great for boost & n/a. Your car will be reliable with a good tune and a good system. hondata,neptune,uber etc.

 

the stage 2 cams might be hard to tune out the overlap. however it is still possible just hard. reliability is all based on tuning. it is the foundation to everything

 

Gude stage 2's

yes i have Hondata s200