I got a base 97'. Right now its stock but I am planning on some roller wave pistons and the usual I/H/E. So what's a good one?

 

Why do you want an ecu change for pistons, I/H/E setup? Do you want to change from obd2 to obd1? Is that what you want to do, or do you want to raise the rev limit and other settings?

You need to be more specific on what you want the new ecu to do.

 

Yeah, I want to change from obd2 to obd1.... I think. Because I heard that 96+ Honda's ECUs limit performance gains, right? Which one should I get/how much, and what are the benefits?

 

Not really any benefit there. The reason obd1 is good is that you can tune it with something like Hondata or chip it. There are no chips or re-programmers for the obd2 prelude ecu. Just getting the ecu swap is not going to do anything for you. You would still have to program the ecu for your needs.

I don't think it's worth getting a ecu just for I/H/E and pistons. But if you want to, P72 is the best ecu for a 97 Prelude. It's an GSR ecu. Just make sure it's obd1 and not obd2 as P72 comes in both. An obd1 P72 will run you anywhere from $300 to $450. It's the most poplular ecu among enthusiasts. But on top of this you would need something like Hondata stage2 for programming. That will run you around $345 for the unit and another $200 for the harness.

By the way is the piston you are getting for higher compression?




[Modified by Anubyss, 9:26 PM 1/31/2002]

 

- Thanks!

Yeah they are higher compression pistons. They're from Endyn, they range from 11.62 - 12.29:1 @ 90mm. For the pistons, rings, and connecting rods, I am looking at about $930. Good deal? How much would a typical installation of this stuff go for, including getting my block re-sleeved? Oh yeah, and how much whp shoud I expect with the I/H/E as well? Stock, the car puts out about 150- 155 whp, so I have heard.


[Modified by subliminizm, 9:37 PM 1/31/2002]

 

I don't know the price for installing rods and pistons. The resleeving from golden eagle is around $800 plus the shipping. They charge another $125 if you send the pistons so they can do the honing. I/H/E with higher compression will get you around 185whp in MY OPINION.

If are definitely sure of staying NA and not going FI, I would also do the cams, cam gears, and valvetrain upgrade while the engine is open. With Hondata setup you can raise the rev limit to whatever you want (I would say around 9000 with everything done to the engine).

This will costly as you will need a ton of stuff when you do the upgrade. Things you really didn't think about when factoring cost. Gaskets, timing belt, autotentioner, water pump, bolts etc..... Just make sure you plan everything out first so that you don't spend extra money later.




[Modified by Anubyss, 9:56 PM 1/31/2002]

 

$800, so I would have to ship them my block, right? When you say 'honing' do you mean for them to hone my pistons?

If I did all that, I would then have to get all that stuff installed, that would propbably be a lot. I am saying if I just get the pistons & rods, and get it installed and re-sleeved all at once at a shop, that would probably run cheaper, right?


[Modified by subliminizm, 10:03 PM 1/31/2002]


[Modified by subliminizm, 10:04 PM 1/31/2002]

 

When you get your pistons, you'll have to make sure it fits within the sleeves. So they make sure the pistons fit in the sleeve properly by honing it. They hone the sleeves not the pistons to the best of my knowledge. Yes it will be cheaper to do the rods, pistons, and resleeving at the same time.

The block will have to be shipped to GE for them to do the job. This will be about a month wait. One week to ship there 2-3 weeks for the job and one week to ship it back (depends where you live of course). Unless you don't use ground method. The pistons and rods can be put in at the shop of your choice. Even the honing can be done locally.

I went the cam, cam gears, valvetrain method as far as engine work is concerned. 180 whp. I ordere a turbo as I've realized staying NA will never get me the power I want. Power is very very addicting.

 

No S*@%. I haven't even started Moding my ride, and I 've realized the only way to get a whole lotta power is FI. What kit did you get? What are the claims, and how much? That's gonna cost a s*@% load to install, aint it?

I don't know, though, I don't think I want to go all out, I don't think 185 whp is all that bad. What about other mods, that may not add HP, but will help your ride go fatser?

 

Lighter rims and weight reduction. I'd start by stripping out the trunk. Also Sparco Roadster seats are only 14.8 lbs a piece(Stock is about 45 lbs a piece.)

 

If you want power, you gotta pay. I've ordered a MaxRev kit, but you can go with Fmax as well. It's probably going to give me about 270 at the wheel at 7psi for me with the stuff on my car.

I really don't think 185whp is going to do it if you catch the 'power bug'. If you really are sure that is enough for you, then stick with what you've planned. That should get you there. Oh you can get a lighter flywheel (I use Fidanza) to for a little better acceleration. I would do this when your clutch goes. It'll save you money doing the clutch and flywheel at the same time.

As far as the turbo setup goes, there are waaay too many things to list. Little things add up quickly. I don't have enough $$ for a full setup so the sleeves, pistons, and rods will have to wait. This means no higher than 8psi for me.

 

christ man.

spend $500 on nitrous, and you'll hit 13's. spend a little more, buy some slicks, and youre in the 12's. unless you have a money tree!!!

 

$500 for NOS. What shot would that be 75 or 100? What about engine build up? I don't think my engine would last very long spraying 100 shot without some type of build up. I also wouldn't like having to fill up the tank either.

NOS is a good cheap method of getting power. But it's just not for me.

 

Yeah, I heard a lot about the Fidanza flywheel, I think I might get that.

Hmm....I just started considering the Jackson Racing SC, they recently came out with one for the 5th gen. I know SCs typically make less power than turbos, but aren't they a bit safer on stock internals?


[Modified by subliminizm, 2:48 PM 2/1/2002]

 

Most people with the JRSC is seeing about 220 at the wheels. Only 6psi for Preludes. I believe Civics and Integras have the 8psi option. Good thing about JRSC is no lag. It is in my opinion what someone would get for a good bump in power.

In my opinion, if you install the turo correctly, it's just as safe as a supercharger. As long as you don't boost high with stock internals. A turbo 6psi is as safe as a JRSC 6psi. It really is a tuning issue. If you can get a good tuner, a 6psi turbo kit without internal build up should be fine.

 

Sounds good. BTW, would the JRSC be too much for my stock tranny at 6 psi?

 

It should be fine. I am going to run stock internals on 7psi for about a year until I can afford an upgrade.

 

Cool, man, thanks. You have been a lot of help. Still not sure if I am gonna go N/A or FI, but you helped clear up a lot of the misconceptions I had.

Thank you

 

Not to step on anyones toes, But my H22a (when it was stock) I/H/E, cams, Portwork, Feild vtec made 194hp and 145ftlbs the car also ran 14.1 @ 98mph. This was with the stock bottom end.
Resleeving The H22a is nessecary to use aftermarket pistons or the FRM walls will cause "gaulling". 90 mm bore, Even if it has been resleeved Will not have any real longevity due to cylinder distortion. 89mm is better IMHO. Consider the whole build-up before you throw your money away.