Well I plan to change my rotors because of warping and im wondering since I never done this before. Its a simple swap right? Just take it off and put in a new set right? If not let me know what I should do .

 

for your sake i hope the original screws that hold the rotor in place arent still in there. they be a bitch to get out. other than that its simple as poo. unbolt teh calipers, pull them off and tie them out of the way, remove old rotors, use for frizbee and put new ones on

 

yup there are some impact screws(or there should be) that you will need to take off, make sure you have the right Phillips head screw driver or you WILL strip them. also make sure to get brake parts cleaner and get any kind of grease off the new rotors befor test driving, also you have to seat the new pads onto the new rotors. good luck

 

take a drill bit to the screws if they are still on the rotors.

 

damn two screws are missing only one screw was holding my rotor in . So Im getting new pads too because its a must according to you guys. Thanks for your help btw.

 

u dont need those screws in, they are just to are there to hold them on during the assemblie line, your wheel/ lugnuts will hold your rotor on.

 

dont bother putting those screw back in, they hold no purpose in life but to make it difficult taking ur rotors off, not liek there gonna fall off with ur wheels on.

also i have a question, i didnt search and thought it would be helpful, how do u seat the pads?

 

i heard u seat the pads by going 20, then stop fast, then 30 stop fast, then 40 stop fast and so on.. not 100% sure though, just info i heard from a goofylocal dude.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn two screws are missing only one screw was holding my rotor in . So Im getting new pads too because its a must according to you guys. Thanks for your help btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There are only supposed to be 2. The other two are for screwing in a certain-sized bolt/screw into those other holes to push the brake rotor out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn two screws are missing only one screw was holding my rotor in . So Im getting new pads too because its a must according to you guys. Thanks for your help btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
BTW, the screws are only there to hold the rotors on when first assembled (otherwise they'd fall off while being bumped around on the assembly line, etc). When you put the new rotor on you shouldn't need to put them back in.

Provided you properly torque down your lugs, the hub and rotor will virtually fuse together after you've gone through enough heat/contract cycles (brake = heating, not braking = cooling). I had to use a big-*** three-fingered claw puller to get my factory rotors off after 4 years of normal driving. Hell, I had to hit the box wrench on the puller with a hammer a dozen or so times after taking it as far as I could by hand.

I bought an impact driver to get the screws out. Worked like a charm for all but one, and that I had to drill out with a cobalt bits because those screws are very tough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonkeyBoy668 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, the screws are only there to hold the rotors on when first assembled (otherwise they'd fall off while being bumped around on the assembly line, etc). When you put the new rotor on you shouldn't need to put them back in.

Provided you properly torque down your lugs, the hub and rotor will virtually fuse together after you've gone through enough heat/contract cycles (brake = heating, not braking = cooling). I had to use a big-*** three-fingered claw puller to get my factory rotors off after 4 years of normal driving. Hell, I had to hit the box wrench on the puller with a hammer a dozen or so times after taking it as far as I could by hand.

I bought an impact driver to get the screws out. Worked like a charm for all but one, and that I had to drill out with a cobalt bits because those screws are very tough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i said ....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by POE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what i said ....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Would you rather have me contradict you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonkeyBoy668 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Would you rather have me contradict you?</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha

 

make sure you clean the rotors before you install them

 

you should actually check the rotor runout but its usually not a big issue on these cars.

Just as a tidbit of info, when I did the brakes on my 75 corvette the rotors were held on by rivits. Had to drill them out. Same purpose though was to hold them on during assembly.

The Helms says that if you turn the rotors on a Honda you shoudl do it with them on the car. This prevents runout from occuring. Runout can pump air into the brakes.