First off, I have a 93 's' model del sol. The brakes are currently stock, and I am planning to replace them this weekend. I currently have:

all 4 gsr spindles + calipers
arp extended studs
ebc green pads
x drilled rotors
Stainless steel brake lines
98 teg bb/mc
94 non abs prop valve (40/40)
mc brace
e brake cables
flare nut wrench

What am I missing, this will be my 1st brake swap, so if you can spot something I need, I would like to go get it before I take my brakes off. I know I need brake fluid too. Any certain kind better than others (higher boiling point?) or just dot 3 approved? I appreciate any help.

 

it looks like you have every. the master cylinder that you have what teg did it come off of?

im guessing that you dont have ABS.

if you dont and you got a MC off a teg that has ABS one of the hard lines wont match up (cant remember which one) but if you got it off a non-ABS teg then youre good to go.

 

it's non-abs . I'm pretty sure I've got it all, been piecing it together for a few months now. I just don't want to deal with the "i'm missing some essential small part and have to walk 2 miles to autozone, because my brakes don't work, just to find out they don't carry it" scenario.

 

cables.....got rear disc components, including hoses?

You wasted money on drilled rotors

I like ate super blue fluid

 

i've got the cables, what hoses are you referring to? rear x drilled rotors came with the discs, so I figured I might as well get the fronts to match for cosmetic purposes (they do look good). Also will the brake fluid really matter? the car just sees normal street driving, the 1/4, and an occasional auto-x. Would I really benefit from it?

 

DO NOT use those brake pads! they are crap! I ran them for a year or so, and I have nothing good to say about them. I blame them for warping and prematurely wearing down a pair of perfectly good rotors, and they make noise. I think they run really hot or something, because I never tracked the car or anything, and I never even had to really mash on the brakes. I would especially not use them in combination with drilled rotors. for the love of god, don't use EBC greens!

I have been running PBR/axxis pads in combination with Brembo blanks for about 6 months and I have absolutely no complaints. pads and rotors are hardly worn at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cables.....got rear disc components, including hoses?

You wasted money on drilled rotors

I like ate super blue fluid</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep. Drilled rotors are a waste of money, they just tear up pads more quickly.

Also, I really like the super blue/gold. You can flush the whole system and tell exactly when you've gotten all of the old stuff out.

 

Thanks, for all the advice. So it doesn't look like i'm missing anthing?

 

dot4 will not boil as quickly as dot3 try some of that, and you and i must have a really different idea of what constitutes massive brakes, unless you mean the project is massive, but even at that, not massive, just my humble opinion...

 

gah! please tell me you aren't gonna use those pads!

 

if you're going to occassionally auto-x, then yes, the brake fluid is important... ate superblue is a great choice.

as far as anything you're missing, you have access to power tools, right? i did a complete swap last summer, and an air gun and impact hammer cut down on my install time. you also need a torque wrench. just in case you have a hard time breaking the knuckle away from the ball joints, be careful with the rubber boots and also the tie rods. when i first tried to do it, i banged the crap out of the tie rod, and i ended up having to replace it.

don't forget to pick up some disc quiet to put on the backs of the brake pads... you might as well slap some on there while everything's apart... also, make sure you have some brake cleaner to degrease your filthy fingerprints off of the new rotors once you begin to piece everything together.

 

I missed the ss lines.

You should buy some blank rotors and return the drilled ones for a refund. You dont need them and you will only go though pads quicker

 

the project is the massive part. I know it's not a big brake upgrade or anything, but that's complete overkill for my car. Traction is what will determine my braking distance, so I really have no interest in being able to lock up the wheels faster than what it will when I'm done.

I can get a set of hawk pads for a good price too, are those any better?
I don't have air tools, but I do have the torque wrench, breaker bar, and ball joint seperator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can get a set of hawk pads for a good price too, are those any better? I don't have air tools, but I do have the torque wrench, breaker bar, and ball joint seperator. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hawk pads are wayyy better. get 'em. I can almost promise you'll regret it if you use the greens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dreamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hawk pads are wayyy better. get 'em. I can almost promise you'll regret it if you use the greens.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just so happen to know someone I can get them from. Same calipers, and he's been riding them for 3 days. His rotors are warped and it's causing an ear splitting squeal. Maybe he'll trade me for the ebc's since his rotors are already f*cked.

 

swap the Brake pads out for some Cobal GT sports And as mentioned, ate superblue brake fluid is really good too..

 

More agressive pads tear up rotors more quickly and in most cases are more dusty...

 

ok, so it sounds like I may not have the best of each part, but I'm not missing anything. As long as I can get it all together and drive my car again, I can change out parts later. Thanks for all the replies .