ok, my bro bought a 98 civic LX hit in the front with 90k on it for 1800 bucks. We got the frame repaired and got it towed home a few weeks ago. It didnt have a battery, and the radiator and condensor were smashed like crap, so we went and bought them and installed them once the car was off the tow truck in our driveway. When we started it up, It erraticaly sputtered, and white smoke came out of the tail pipe and almost choked itself to quit. We thought it had a cracked head gasket, because of the white smoke, and watery looking oil, so we had the head machined and inspected. The head was fine, no messed up parts, and they shaved the bottom where it meets the block. We replaced the head along with the timing belt and water pump since the engine was apart anyways.

So, we replaced the head gasket, and the engine runs BETTER, but there is still water coming out of the exhaust manifold. I mean, its pouring like a half turned on water hose whenever the car runs where the flange meets the downpipe.

When we replaced the head gasket, I could only find 2 of the 3 head guide pins that help you line up the head with the block. Also, I didnt have a torque wrench, so I just tightened the head bolts as tight as I thought they should be by hand because I feared breaking them off. I got the bolts REALLY SUPER tight though. Does not using a torque wrench matter? There is also a small spraying leak in a little hose under the throttle body, if that matters any.

I was told using new head bolts didnt matter by the machinist who shaved and inspected the head. We did a valve adjustment, because the valves werent set when they put the head back together from hot-tanking it and inspecting it.

Could something else be wrong here? If the valves arent set properly, will that cause issues with coolant? I am also wondering if the block surface is warped, because the owner MAY have let the car run without coolant and whatever in it. Do you guys have any sugestions? This thing is still leaking water and sputtering, so we need it fixed. We hope it is simple, because we have already gone through all the hard work of replacing the head and all that, and dont want to have to do it again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigt61 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am also wondering if the block surface is warped, because the owner MAY have let the car run without coolant and whatever in it. Do you guys have any sugestions? This thing is still leaking water and sputtering, so we need it fixed. We hope it is simple, because we have already gone through all the hard work of replacing the head and all that, and dont want to have to do it again.
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I think you already know what's wrong, you just dont want to accept it. try a thicker head gasket and see if it helps. my $.02.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigt61 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didnt have a torque wrench, so I just tightened the head bolts as tight as I thought they should be by hand because I feared breaking them off. I got the bolts REALLY SUPER tight though. Does not using a torque wrench matter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would get a torque wrench to double check your head bolts. I definitely would not install a head without a torque wrench. The problem may be caused by the improperly torqued head bolts. When working on an engine, a torque wrench is a must.

 

torque sequence on head bolts is an absolute must

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">torque sequence on head bolts is an absolute must</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think you already know what's wrong, you just dont want to accept it. try a thicker head gasket and see if it helps. my $.02.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is so important about torque sequences? And how the heck would I Get a thicker head gasket?

 

you would just buy a thicker headgasket, but the torque sequence is more important. When you tighten down the head, you compress the headgasket, and if you don't do it correctly, you can end up with leaks. When I suggesting a thicker one, I was thinking your head (or block) was warped. The thicker one would have a better chance of sealing it without leaks. The downside is that a thicker headgasket will change your compression. I would torque the head correctly before trying another headgasket.