Apexi brake pads dealer
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want those?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because I used them in my older race car and it was the best pads a have ever used, a dealer around here used to import them but not anyomore, and can't find them in the US
Because I used them in my older race car and it was the best pads a have ever used, a dealer around here used to import them but not anyomore, and can't find them in the US
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good luck getting them
Have you thought about the CobaltFriction pads? I just got them and are amazed. Plus many HC people use them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cobalt Friction Spec VR is the best brake pad EVER!
Suits my 300 WHP integra just fine, anyway, on stock rotors and calipers.
I never even knew Apexi sold brake pads. I wonder if they're outsourced, who makes them?
Have you thought about the CobaltFriction pads? I just got them and are amazed. Plus many HC people use them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cobalt Friction Spec VR is the best brake pad EVER!
Suits my 300 WHP integra just fine, anyway, on stock rotors and calipers.I never even knew Apexi sold brake pads. I wonder if they're outsourced, who makes them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cobalt Friction Spec VR is the best brake pad EVER!
Suits my 300 WHP integra just fine, anyway, on stock rotors and calipers.
I never even knew Apexi sold brake pads. I wonder if they're outsourced, who makes them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you think it will work on the race track? our race track has very hard breaking and I abused too much the brakes, does this Cobalt can handle very hi temps?
Cobalt Friction Spec VR is the best brake pad EVER!
Suits my 300 WHP integra just fine, anyway, on stock rotors and calipers.I never even knew Apexi sold brake pads. I wonder if they're outsourced, who makes them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you think it will work on the race track? our race track has very hard breaking and I abused too much the brakes, does this Cobalt can handle very hi temps?
Spec VRs are a hardcore track pad. check them out http://www.cobaltfriction.com/
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you think it will work on the race track? our race track has very hard breaking and I abused too much the brakes, does this Cobalt can handle very hi temps?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, absolutely. It is a race-only pad (that I use on the street and track too, but I'm a dumbass). I have used it at Road America, where it slows me down from 140 MPH in three places, and Mid-Ohio and VIR. They last a long time compared to other racing brake pads.
Lots of race teams are using them on their Hondas:
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/...x.asp
Spec VR info:
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/...29077
Note: Andie @ Cobalt Friction will recommend pads for you if you call. Likely, Spec VR front and GT-Sport in the rear.
I haven't looked at the "Spec C" ones yet, check out this...
"Cobalt spec(C) is a "specialty" compound designed specially for rear-axle use in FWD IT-class vehicles; excellent modulation for superior control under deel trail-braking. The spec(C) is used extensively in Grand Am Cup, SCCA , and NASA Honda Challenge."
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, absolutely. It is a race-only pad (that I use on the street and track too, but I'm a dumbass). I have used it at Road America, where it slows me down from 140 MPH in three places, and Mid-Ohio and VIR. They last a long time compared to other racing brake pads.
Lots of race teams are using them on their Hondas:
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/...x.asp
Spec VR info:
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/...29077
Note: Andie @ Cobalt Friction will recommend pads for you if you call. Likely, Spec VR front and GT-Sport in the rear.
I haven't looked at the "Spec C" ones yet, check out this...
"Cobalt spec(C) is a "specialty" compound designed specially for rear-axle use in FWD IT-class vehicles; excellent modulation for superior control under deel trail-braking. The spec(C) is used extensively in Grand Am Cup, SCCA , and NASA Honda Challenge."
Contact them and tell them what you want. They will be able to help you:
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do you think it will work on the race track?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Absolutely. They sponsor several race series here in the states and are often used by Honda Challenge drivers. If a compound they produce will not provide what you want they will steer you towards either something else they carry or in the correct direction regardless.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">our race track has very hard breaking</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again, talk to Cobalt. I think they can provide a pad for your requirements.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and I abused too much the brakes,</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like your honesty.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does this Cobalt can handle very hi temps?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do you think it will work on the race track?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Absolutely. They sponsor several race series here in the states and are often used by Honda Challenge drivers. If a compound they produce will not provide what you want they will steer you towards either something else they carry or in the correct direction regardless.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">our race track has very hard breaking</TD></TR></TABLE>
Again, talk to Cobalt. I think they can provide a pad for your requirements.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and I abused too much the brakes,</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like your honesty.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does this Cobalt can handle very hi temps?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
Thank everyone !!! considering all agree with Spec VR, I'll contact them and try to get a set for a practice session. Last question, are they king to rotors? because I used to have Hawk Blue compound, very good for the race track but wears the rotors very fast.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I used to have Hawk Blue compound, very good for the race track but wears the rotors very fast.</TD></TR></TABLE>
they work as well as the Hawk Blue (and Ferrodo DS3000).... but are very kind to rotors.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=258996
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=181691
they work as well as the Hawk Blue (and Ferrodo DS3000).... but are very kind to rotors.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=258996
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=181691
I have Apexi A750 pads front and rear in my car and theyre very very good. Initial cold bite is amazing but they do need to be heated up good and proper to get the most out of them. My car is street driven only and i find that they are more than up to the job. On hard braking while theyre cold, they do fade a little after the initial hard bite but once theyve heated up the stopping power in increased no end.
I dont know about the US but they can be bought from takakaira in japan >>> http://www.takakaira.com
I dont know about the US but they can be bought from takakaira in japan >>> http://www.takakaira.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Suits my 300 WHP integra just fine, anyway, on stock rotors and calipers.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are going to have to show me how you do that sometime.
I only have 200 WHP, and I am heat stressing rotors after one weekend, and usually have to replace them after a second weekend because one or the other is either cracked or about to crack. This is with repeated threshold braking from 130-135 in one place, and repeated threshold braking from 110 in another place, for 20 minutes at at ime, and with a cooldown lap and a drive around the paddock afterwards.
Can't figure it out.
Maybe it's finally time to steer away from the ol'e Autozone cheapies.
Suits my 300 WHP integra just fine, anyway, on stock rotors and calipers.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are going to have to show me how you do that sometime.
I only have 200 WHP, and I am heat stressing rotors after one weekend, and usually have to replace them after a second weekend because one or the other is either cracked or about to crack. This is with repeated threshold braking from 130-135 in one place, and repeated threshold braking from 110 in another place, for 20 minutes at at ime, and with a cooldown lap and a drive around the paddock afterwards.
Can't figure it out.
Maybe it's finally time to steer away from the ol'e Autozone cheapies.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You are going to have to show me how you do that sometime.
I only have 200 WHP, and I am heat stressing rotors after one weekend, and usually have to replace them after a second weekend because one or the other is either cracked or about to crack. This is with repeated threshold braking from 130-135 in one place, and repeated threshold braking from 110 in another place, for 20 minutes at at ime, and with a cooldown lap and a drive around the paddock afterwards.
Can't figure it out.
Maybe it's finally time to steer away from the ol'e Autozone cheapies.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do those cracks look any different than what Will posted? I've had same set of rotors on my car for almost a season and they are still running strong.
You are going to have to show me how you do that sometime.
I only have 200 WHP, and I am heat stressing rotors after one weekend, and usually have to replace them after a second weekend because one or the other is either cracked or about to crack. This is with repeated threshold braking from 130-135 in one place, and repeated threshold braking from 110 in another place, for 20 minutes at at ime, and with a cooldown lap and a drive around the paddock afterwards.
Can't figure it out.
Maybe it's finally time to steer away from the ol'e Autozone cheapies.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Do those cracks look any different than what Will posted? I've had same set of rotors on my car for almost a season and they are still running strong.
If they're as bad as mine I think George may suffer from the same lead foot brake pedal symptoms that I am trying to remedy.
As RJ put it to me, I simply Must Compress The Braking Zone More.
Or it may be something totally different. [shrug]
As RJ put it to me, I simply Must Compress The Braking Zone More.
Or it may be something totally different. [shrug]
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I simply Must Compress The Braking Zone More. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If I compress the brake zone in the chute any more I will be taking the Legends shortcut!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do those cracks look any different than what Will posted?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what it looks like at the end of the day the first Saturday.
Corey suggested a little while ago that I should look at a Fastbrakes kit to get better heat dissipation. I dunno about all that.
Maybe some of Andie's freeze dried rotors?
If I compress the brake zone in the chute any more I will be taking the Legends shortcut!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do those cracks look any different than what Will posted?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what it looks like at the end of the day the first Saturday.

Corey suggested a little while ago that I should look at a Fastbrakes kit to get better heat dissipation. I dunno about all that.
Maybe some of Andie's freeze dried rotors?
Did you run any ducting yet to try and cool them?
I ask since I still have ducting that I just haven't installed yet. Curious if that might help you at all.
I ask since I still have ducting that I just haven't installed yet. Curious if that might help you at all.
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