Tom. morning im going to be tapping my oil pan and this time around im going to weld in a fitting. The fitting is kinda thin compared to the oil pan thickness so im going to be very careful and weld on very low amps. Also try to focus the heat more towards the oil pan. Anyone have any tips for me? Also I already know, I cleaned the **** out of the pan and im for sure going to sand the paint off in the area im going to be welding. I will be using my millermatic 135 mig welder. Im just sick of oil pan's leaking and want a very clean professional install. Thanks for any advice. Nick

 

Tig it if you don't wan't it to leak. On such a small part mig'ing it will have a lack of fusion at the start or a blow-through at the end depending on how you set your machine.

 

Really? I was going to use the technique weld......weld......weld...... and just tack it all around. Any input on this I was going to do.

 

tack stop tack stop tack stop with mig will work fine, just make sure you don't have any contaminants on the material when you do that or you'll end up with craters that could cause leaks. if your hole is drilled properly there should be no gap between the fitting and the pan so it should be a fillet weld which is less likely to leak with that process than if you were buttwelding it.

 

Clean it, tig it. No point in doing it twice.

 

I've MIG'd 3 so far with no problems (leaks), getting better each time (appearance wise). And this is with a cheaper 110v Matco MIG. The MM135 will probably be much nicer.

 

A series of tacks is not a proper weld, especially with mig. With such a small area taking in so much heat and having a machine which only allows you to set it before the welding takes place, it's either going to be too cold at the start or too hot at the end.

 

It CAN be done migging though. It's just a lot higher risk than using a tiggy torch with a foot pedal...

 

It can be done with a mig, if you know what your doing.

 

Yep. What I do if I don't feel comfortable about the outside weld is before I weld the bung I make the hole a little bigger than the bung hole diameter and weld the inside too. Guaranteed not to leak That way if you have say a B series pan where the bung has to be at the absolute top (almost against the lip) you don't have to worry about getting all the way around the top on the outside.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tig it if you don't wan't it to leak. On such a small part mig'ing it will have a lack of fusion at the start or a blow-through at the end depending on how you set your machine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry but that makes no sense. If he only has a mig welder why not just mig it, it will work perfectly fine, you can just lay a bunch of spot welds with low wire speed and it will be absolutely fine. I welded mine in 4 steady beads without any problems at all, i didn't get any distortion at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dennis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've MIG'd 3 so far with no problems (leaks), getting better each time (appearance wise). And this is with a cheaper 110v Matco MIG. The MM135 will probably be much nicer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I second this (excpet I've only done 2, not 3)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry but that makes no sense. If he only has a mig welder why not just mig it, it will work perfectly fine, you can just lay a bunch of spot welds with low wire speed and it will be absolutely fine. I welded mine in 4 steady beads without any problems at all, i didn't get any distortion at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It might make no sense to you, but that doesn't mean it's not true.

There is a reason you're not supposed to mig chromoly rollcages. That same reason is why I wouldn't rely on a mig weld on a small fitting that is supposed to retain all of my engine's oil.

When mig welding, the second you pull the trigger, you're adding filler to cold base metals. This leads to lack of penetration. If you compensate for this by turning the heat up, you'll end up overheating the metal towards the end of the weld.

When you're working with a thin gauge oil pan and a small fitting that will have some stress on it (tightening the fitting and rapid heat changes) you need full penetration. Hell any joint should have full penetration, but with mig that won't happen.

So is it worth the $10 to have someone else tig it for you when you know all of your oil is going to stay inside of the engine? (I'd say yes though I can just tig it myself )

 

well **** some people jm weld that ****. I have done this and had no prbs. Ill let yall know how the mig job comes out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
When mig welding, the second you pull the trigger, you're adding filler to cold base metals. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So you heat the metal up before welding it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So is it worth the $10 to have someone else tig it for you when you know all of your oil is going to stay inside of the engine? (I'd say yes though I can just tig it myself )</TD></TR></TABLE>

It might be worth it but some people like to do it themselfs, why buy a mig machine if your gonna take everything to a person who can tig. And its not like mig can not do this, plently of people have done this with a mig.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> (I'd say yes though I can just tig it myself )</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not every one can afford high priced machines, so some people have to make due on what they have. **** why even weld an extra fitting onto an oil pan, why not just cast one of out pure billet on a cnc machine , It would be better then tigging it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not every one can afford high priced machines, so some people have to make due on what they have. **** why even weld an extra fitting onto an oil pan, why not just cast one of out pure billet on a cnc machine , It would be better then tigging it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually a proper weld is stronger than the base metal it is welded to, so it wouldn't be better. There's a difference between doing something the right way and being a smartass.

If you can't afford $10 to have someone tig a fitting perhaps you shouldn't be modifying your car. OH SNAP!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There's a difference between doing something the right way and being a smartass.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

And there is a difference in wanting to do it yourself, and having someone else do it. The whole point was this can be done with a mig machine, and it can be done right. A lot of people on this forum can not afford a tig, there fore they buy a mig welder so, so they can do these little things themselves.

Then there are a lot of people that have access to tig machines, and there gonna say tig is the only way, when its not.

 

The problem is this: If somebody has to ask if this can be mig welded, then their mig welding skill is likely not good enough to do this without having a leak... and then when the leak is found, the trouble of fixing it is about 20 times more difficult than it would have been to just pay somebody a few dollars to weld it to begin with.


So, yes, it can be mig welded. Can YOU do it without a leak? I don't know...it's the risk that you will have to assess.

Think about the guy in the other thread that asked if the power steering line could be welded up with mig. Answer was yes. He tried, now has leaks... and it's going to be a real bitch for him to do it now that it's full of fluid. A job that could have been tig welded easily is now a much more difficult job for him to fix.

 

Pretty much my point. You have very little control with mig. Yes it can be done with mig but it's a half-*** approach to a simple problem.

Thousands of dollars at risk to save $10. The methodology of Honda-Tech.com.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastcivicboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fitting is kinda thin compared to the oil pan thickness so im going to be very careful and weld on very low amps. I will be using my millermatic 135 mig welder.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to question the abilities of someone who doesn't know mig machines are adjusted by voltage.

And for the creator of the thread ' Mig welding tips/questions ' :cough: 90blackcrx :cough: . Don't discuss a topic that you know little about.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When your tack weld, should the gas be on or off ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And for the creator of the thread ' Mig welding tips/questions ' :cough: 90blackcrx :cough: . Don't discuss a topic that you know little about.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just because I asked for tips does not mean I don't know anything about welding.

Its people like you that discourage the little man from doing a job like this. Your the same type of guy that would bash something bought at harbor freight because your use to using something nicer that cost a hell of a lot more.

The point was, it can be done properly with a mig machine ( a ton of people used a mig machine to do this ). If he wants to attempt it, then let him try. If your mentality in life is, I'll take it to someone else so they can do it, then your not gonna make it in this business.

But then again, when you tell that guy with a mig machine to take it to someone who has a tig machine, I guess your that someone that has a tig machine. What is the point of buying a mig welder, when now a days everyone says mig is garbage and tig is the right way to do it.

You can quote me all you want, everyone has to learn some where, plus I'm sure other people will learn from my thread.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hell any joint should have full penetration, but with mig that won't happen.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's b.s, I have seen plenty of mig welds that had 100% full penetration.

I guess we should all throw are mig machines away and just go buy a tig

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is a reason you're not supposed to mig chromoly rollcages.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah because a cage is designed to support the vehicles weight and save your life, we are not talking about a cage here.


Modified by 90blackcrx at 3:30 PM 4/23/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just because I asked for tips does not mean I don't know anything about welding.

Its people like you that discourage the little man from doing a job like this. Your the same type of guy that would bash something bought at harbor freight because your use to using something nicer that cost a hell of a lot more.

The point was, it can be done properly with a mig machine. If he wants to attempt it, then let him try. If your mentality in life is, I'll take it to someone else so they can do it, then your not gonna make it in this business.

But then again, when you tell that guy with a mig machine to take it to someone who has a tig machine, I guess your that someone that has a tig machine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's called using the right tools for the job. We have a Millermatic 250 that I use all of the time... for exhaust work.

Our customer's are given enough respect for us to do things right the first time, so they don't have to pay for our mistakes.

Yes, I hate little guys. Yes, I'm a huge 21 year old, 5' 10", 155 lb behemoth of a man that will devour you. And yes Harbor Freight sells absolute **** for the most part.

I'm sure your customers love the fact that you're learning on their cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, I hate little guys. Yes, I'm a huge 21 year old, 5' 10", 155 lb behemoth of a man that will devour you. And yes Harbor Freight sells absolute **** for the most part.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I ment in the industry, not the size of a person.

Yes to you harbor freight might sell ****, because your use to using nicer tools. But to someone that is doing things out of his garage or just starting off, some of the stuff harbor freight sells works pretty dam good.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm sure your customers love the fact that you're learning on their cars. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Show me where I am learning on someones car ? I will not do anything on any ones car unless I know what I'm doing. I won't release anything out of my garage unless I would put it on my car, and I'm a perfectionist.

Keep talking your **** over the internet though you big bad e-thug, wonder how you got 2% taken away. Must feel good to type some mean things on the internet, lol. If you feel the need to talk anymore ****, you can always IM me or email me.