resistor box and ECU question.
i did a search, and i found a lot of info on resistor boxes
i dont know if this is a dumb question or not but i dont want to mess my swap up. In the guide i printed out to use to put my (Standard) H22a in my 93 civic ex (automatic) it shows a resistor box. Do i NEED a resistor box or is it just a good thing to have one? The reason i ask is because the engine came with a "complete swap package" which inculded drivetrane, mounts, sensors, ecu, etc - but no resistor box. If i need one, where do i get one? (i dont need to know how to install it, i found that information.. just need to know if i need it or if i can just wire it in without the box)
another question that just came about is.. the ECU that came w/ the engine i believe is the stock H22a P13 ECU, and because i have an automatic (dont know if there is a difference between a civic standard/auto ecu) P28 ECU that came with the civ.. which do i need to use? (or which would work better) the P28, or the P13.. and whats the difference as far as ratios and performance? TIA
i dont know if this is a dumb question or not but i dont want to mess my swap up. In the guide i printed out to use to put my (Standard) H22a in my 93 civic ex (automatic) it shows a resistor box. Do i NEED a resistor box or is it just a good thing to have one? The reason i ask is because the engine came with a "complete swap package" which inculded drivetrane, mounts, sensors, ecu, etc - but no resistor box. If i need one, where do i get one? (i dont need to know how to install it, i found that information.. just need to know if i need it or if i can just wire it in without the box)
another question that just came about is.. the ECU that came w/ the engine i believe is the stock H22a P13 ECU, and because i have an automatic (dont know if there is a difference between a civic standard/auto ecu) P28 ECU that came with the civ.. which do i need to use? (or which would work better) the P28, or the P13.. and whats the difference as far as ratios and performance? TIA
Test your injectors with an ohm meter - if you get 2-5 ohms across the injector leads, you will need a resistor box. If you get around 12 ohms across the injector leads, you will not need a resistor box.
If you need help installing a resistor box, go here:
http://info.honda-tech.com/
and search for 'resistor box'
I have done a complete writeup there.
If you need help installing a resistor box, go here:
http://info.honda-tech.com/
and search for 'resistor box'
I have done a complete writeup there.
use the p13. in order to use the p28, you would need to convert it to a manual ecu, and chip it for h22 fuel maps. The p13 will work the easiest. Just add wires for vtec, ks, egr. If your engine is from a 4th gen lude (93-96, obd1), then you will need a resistor box, if its from a 5th gen (97 +, obd2) then you do not need one. The best place to pick one up is from a junkyard, they are all the same and my "complete swap" didn't come with a lot of little things you need...
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do i put the egr wires into d12, d19 and d22? in the p13 ecu??? because i have a prelude book, and thats what it shows. The guide i was using says d12, d22, and a25.. i dont get it?
has anyone done this before that i can talk to?
has anyone done this before that i can talk to?
egr is a 5 wire system. First there is the egr solenoid with a 2 wire plug. This is usually hanging on the wire harness if you ordered the motor, or by the intake of a usdm motor. The red wire (ECU trigger) goes to A11, and the black/yellow wire (Sensor voltage) is A25. Then you have the 3 wire plug by the intake manifold/fuel rail. This is your lift sensor. From left to right: White/black (ECU trigger) D12, Green/White (Sensor ground) D22, and Red/white (Sensor voltage) to D19 or A25.
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