air conditioning problem... still dont know what it is, help please
well. ive searched and did not find a similar problem
i live in houston and hell weather is almost here.
it happened after my ac line broke or leaked.
it busted in the humid hot weather. i replaced with a line from the junk yard came with that weird can thing connected to the line. but i used my old one.
so after i installed the line it worked for like 2 or 3 days
and then when i was at a light it got warm. i was like what now? turned it up to 4 to see if there was anything cold coming out. there was but very little, so little that you can even tell. i had to hit the ac button to turn it off to tell the difference. seems like it doesnt work but it does i guess, still sweat *****
so i start going again, left it in 4th at like 3k rpm's... it gets cold again like it was, really cold. then i come to a light and stopped. warm again
i didnt evacuate the system after i replaced the line. but all the olf freon leaked out im sure.
so why is my a/c going with my revs. belt is tight. is it the clutch or compressor, condensor, or the weird parts like the can at the end of the line or the thing under my dash (not the blower motor)
its not leaking, so im stumped.
havent tried anything yet b/c i dont know what the problem is. i dont wanna go buy a new compressor and still be the same.
i live in houston and hell weather is almost here.
it happened after my ac line broke or leaked.
it busted in the humid hot weather. i replaced with a line from the junk yard came with that weird can thing connected to the line. but i used my old one.
so after i installed the line it worked for like 2 or 3 days
and then when i was at a light it got warm. i was like what now? turned it up to 4 to see if there was anything cold coming out. there was but very little, so little that you can even tell. i had to hit the ac button to turn it off to tell the difference. seems like it doesnt work but it does i guess, still sweat *****
so i start going again, left it in 4th at like 3k rpm's... it gets cold again like it was, really cold. then i come to a light and stopped. warm again
i didnt evacuate the system after i replaced the line. but all the olf freon leaked out im sure.
so why is my a/c going with my revs. belt is tight. is it the clutch or compressor, condensor, or the weird parts like the can at the end of the line or the thing under my dash (not the blower motor)
its not leaking, so im stumped.
havent tried anything yet b/c i dont know what the problem is. i dont wanna go buy a new compressor and still be the same.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by booja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i replaced with a line from the junk yard came with that weird can thing connected to the line. but i used my old one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
"can thing connected to the line" is a reciever/dryer. The dryer is used to remove moisture from refrigerant in it's liquid state. It should be replaced every time the system is opened. You want to remove moisture because it will mix with the oil and create an acid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by booja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt evacuate the system after i replaced the line.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have non-condensables in your system. Non-condensables decrease system capacity and increase the head pressure. On gages you'll see low suction pressure and high discharge pressure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by booja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not leaking, so im stumped.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what an ac service tech would do...
Verify operation of the condenser fan motor and make sure the condensor coil is clean. If those check out then you're experiencing pressure problems from poor refrigeration skills.
Here's the right way to do it....After replacing the dryer, evacuate the system. Wait about 15 minutes and see if it holds vacuum. If pressure rises you still have a leak. If it holds pressure hook up the refrigerant bottle and purge the hose to remove the non-condensables. The charge should be weighed in, but if you know how to use gages it's just as good.
Good luck
"can thing connected to the line" is a reciever/dryer. The dryer is used to remove moisture from refrigerant in it's liquid state. It should be replaced every time the system is opened. You want to remove moisture because it will mix with the oil and create an acid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by booja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt evacuate the system after i replaced the line.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have non-condensables in your system. Non-condensables decrease system capacity and increase the head pressure. On gages you'll see low suction pressure and high discharge pressure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by booja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not leaking, so im stumped.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what an ac service tech would do...
Verify operation of the condenser fan motor and make sure the condensor coil is clean. If those check out then you're experiencing pressure problems from poor refrigeration skills.
Here's the right way to do it....After replacing the dryer, evacuate the system. Wait about 15 minutes and see if it holds vacuum. If pressure rises you still have a leak. If it holds pressure hook up the refrigerant bottle and purge the hose to remove the non-condensables. The charge should be weighed in, but if you know how to use gages it's just as good.
Good luck
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