Heres my set up

92 civic si
1994 jdm gsr
used my stock si wires for a clean look
and a usdm obd1 P72 ecu


Heres what I have tried already:
I already tried connecting one wire to ecu pin A17 Where the IAB is suppose to be and also the other wire to pin A25 where the ground is I suppose

i drove around just to see if the butterfly's work but it still doesnt. I know this becuase i put a slice of masking tape and if the butterflys open then it would of tore the slice piece of tape (I know for sure it wasnt holding it back a little pull on the tape would of tore easily)

So now i am all confused and dont know what to do???

Please help HONDA TECHERS

 

bump need the help

 

the butterflies are normally open when the motor is off(no vacuum).you can have a friend start the car while you watch the solenoid.when the car starts,the arm should move and rotate the butterflies closed.this will tell you whether they're working.
if it's not working,check the vacuum line that goes to the solenoid,and recheck your wiring.also make sure the assembly rotates freely.
Chris

 

I tried all what you just said *TeamNextGenChris* and it still doesnt work.........do you possibly have any pictures of how it look or any links (NO Hondatech links) I have seen them all trust me......


Thanks again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RELprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried all what you just said *TeamNextGenChris* and it still doesnt work.........do you possibly have any pictures of how it look or any links (NO Hondatech links) I have seen them all trust me......


Thanks again </TD></TR></TABLE>
i can't find any good pics.wish i had my shop manual here-i'd scan the proper diagram.
it just has one vacuum hose that gets a feed from the intake manifold.then there's the two wires.
Chris

 

its one from the intake manifold then splits into two one for the fuel rail and one for the IAB black box

 

on mine all i did was repin a17 and a20 at the ecu, it works perfect, i have a 92 dx with a 95 b18c1, us p72, the gsr motor harness, and the civics chassis harness.

 

the gsr harness already has the wires for the IAB's, what I am using is the eg si wiring harness which doesnt have any wires for the IAB'S

 

when i did my swap my iab black box was ruined so i threw it all out, ran one vacume line directly from the back of the intake mani to the iab butterfly valve diaphram and called it a day. works perfectly.

this was on my jdm h22a though, so things may be different, but i would give it a try.

 

I would try it but the only thing is that i went to the state ref and they saw that i didnt hook up the IAB's and told me to comeback when the IAB's are hooked and and working properly............but thanks for the input i really do appreciate it

 

someone please help**********

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RELprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">someone please help********** </TD></TR></TABLE>
so,have you definitely confirmed the wiring is good?
Chris

 

I am positive...........i check like about 50 times..... I directly hooked it up to the ecu straight from the solinoid and it still doesnt work........

I was expirementing and i pluged th EVAP solinoid to the IAB and it suctioned rigth when i started the car,,, but i revved the car to about 7000 and the diaphram didnt move at all

 

hey...unplug the 2pin connnector and start the engine. take a dvom and probe it on teh 2 wires. you should have about 12v. if you dont its your wiring.(one wire is power and the other is ground at the ecu. if you have power at the 2wires then it should work unless your vaccumm hoses are routed wrong or you have a vaccumm leak at the black box. Pretty easy. Goood luck. any questions pm me. the honda server is down and i was going to put on a diagram forr you.

 

blah too much mis information. The ecu wire is a ground. Basically when the iabs have power they are closed and when the kick over point is reached the ecu cuts the ground power. So run a wire from the battery on one side and ground (wire from the ecu) on the other side. Like he stated before with the car off it is OPEN so you will know when they are closed when you start the car. It really is that simple.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DohcVtecCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blah too much mis information. The ecu wire is a ground. Basically when the iabs have power they are closed and when the kick over point is reached the ecu cuts the ground power. So run a wire from the battery on one side and ground (wire from the ecu) on the other side. Like he stated before with the car off it is OPEN so you will know when they are closed when you start the car. It really is that simple.</TD></TR></TABLE>


no, its the vacume that controls them being open or closed, not the sensor.

it's not a vtec solenoid lol.

 

you are wrong, it has a solenoid that cuts the vacum for it, making it open or closed which has been stated here many times I just told him how to wire it correctly.
"not a vtec solenoid lol"- no it is vacuum solenoid lol... ******* idiot If you know so much how are yours hooked up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DohcVtecCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are wrong, it has a solenoid that cuts the vacum for it, making it open or closed which has been stated here many times I just told him how to wire it correctly.
"not a vtec solenoid lol"- no it is vacuum solenoid lol... ******* idiot If you know so much how are yours hooked up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, "******* idiot?" i bet you'd cyber-kick-my-*** too?

haha ******* e-thugs.

edit: id be sour if i was in utah too, its ok i understand.

 

lol e thug, im not kicking anyones ***, just hate people that are so stupid they make rocks look smart. I swapped a gs-r head w mani and a gs-r ecu into my teg over the winter, and I searched HT and wired them up like all the threads say, and it didn't work cause of people like you posting bs, SO I got my voltage tester out and figured it out on my own. Now im trying to help this guy get it the right way too. Your posts are sure doing alot to help him and eveyone else that reads the threads and they also prove, like I said before, ur being a ******* idiot!
Sour in UT is better than flaming gay pride in bay area cali

 

so to sum it up you are just clarifying "yes, i am a sour pompous *******,"
aside from just stating the facts.

getting on a high horse over a vacuum solenoid, i think you need to check your inferiority complex.

now living in cali, thats something to get on a high horse about. but with the best of everything here, whats to argue?

 

WOOOOOOO WOOOOOO WOOOOOOOO calm your horses and sourness........

I didnt alot of trial and error and busted out me fluke metter and found out my ecu if f*** up

heres what i did:
1)put the car ignition on, on position
2) put the red pole on the yellow/black wire
3) put the black pole on the chasis to check the connection (got 12 volts)
4) then i put the black on evap (A20) and got 8 volts (this is without engine on)
5) then checked IAB (A17) and got like 0.018 or less
6) then i went to the sensor and check the power (red pole into the yellow/black) and put the black on the chassis and got a strong reading (12 volts or more)
7) which lead me back to the ecu because the negative runs through the ecu

so then i cam to a conclusion that my ecu is not putting out enough volts to the solinoid or there could be something messed up inside the ecu ]

Anyone in the bayarea from who I can barrow an obd1 p72 bone stock virgin ecu from I am willing to pay...........

 

ok now start the car put the positive on the positive bat terminal and and the black on the iab wire running of the ecu. If you have 12 volts your good ecu wise if not you have a bad wire, wrong pin location or possibly bad ecu (highly doubt it!) Remember the iab are open when the car is off and the suck closed when u start the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DohcVtecCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok now start the car put the positive on the positive bat terminal and and the black on the iab wire running of the ecu. If you have 12 volts your good ecu wise if not you have a bad wire, wrong pin location or possibly bad ecu (highly doubt it!) Remember the iab are open when the car is off and the suck closed when u start the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Put what positive, pole of the fluke meter, or the solinoid??

 

Sorry my wife has been on the computer...yes u put the positive of your tester on the positive battery terminal and the negative of the tester on the ecu iab wire if u have 12 volts then you are ok if not you have a problem with the wire like it is broken or at the wrong pin location or possible bad ecu (highly doubt it!).
When I did it I ran a wire off ignition 12 v (the ones under the dash in the fuse box) and the iab pin out which is your ground. When the little solenoid has power it will allow the vacum to the iab diaphram causing it to close the runners, when power is cut the solenoid closes making them open up. It is that simple, if your doing anything else you are over complicating it. If you need anymore help pm me and I will give you my phone # cause it is hella simple.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DohcVtecCrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blah too much mis information. The ecu wire is a ground. Basically when the iabs have power they are closed and when the kick over point is reached the ecu cuts the ground power. So run a wire from the battery on one side and ground (wire from the ecu) on the other side. Like he stated before with the car off it is OPEN so you will know when they are closed when you start the car. It really is that simple.</TD></TR></TABLE> my bad. i lookedit up on helm manual and the 2 wires at the iab: one is to ecu. 12v. the other is hooked up to chassis ground. just to rephrase... with the vacuum diaphram is activated by ecu. it opens up to the long runners,which will give you power up to 5grand and then the ecu cuts the power and you will then have the short runners for awesome vtec.