00WhiteEKy

Ok, I have a 99 gsr motor in my 92 hatch. running an obd-1 ecu. I was told to switch A20 to A17 (which is right, i made sure of the right wire) And then i gave the black wire on the IAB plug a 12 volt switched source, i checked that too, when i start my car, 12 volts is there. (i used one of the yellow/blk wires near the IAB selenoid) Then i tried getting a new bottle, but no luck, i even tried another new bottle. but nop..... I tried running a IAB wire right to the ecu, still didn't work. Im not sure what to do now. Could my ECU be messed? or the actual gray IAB plug be bad?? I need some help. After seeing the dyno results of having the secondaires wokring, i really want them to work. I can't wait to start my car and see them suck close, ill be so happy. but for now, I need some HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! my only alternative right now is

oldbeefcake

I'm in the same boat as you.

00WhiteEKy

What have you all tried. maybe if we find out what each of us tried, we can figure out what is wrong. i was thinking about trying another gsr ecu and see what happens, or maybe all 3 bottle i have tried are bad. I dunno, i really want them to work.

43MA

this is what you do
cut the iab harness off
black to 12v+
red/blu to A17 on the ecu. just hardwire it to ecu
it should work

if not check that you are actually getting 12v+

to check ecu
with key on engine off and voltmeter set to continuity
probe a17 and ground.... you should get continuity
with key off ground should dissappear

00WhiteEKy

yeah, i have done everything except what you said there. I know everything else is right, its wired to a17, i know that for a fact, and i checked to make sure it was getting 12v. ill check the gound thing.

fastwanabe

I'm in the same boat except it's not a gsr its a H22, I even checked contiuity w/ A17 and ground and got nothing. I hooked it up every possible way but it still didnt work so I wired up a relay to diconnect the ground for the IAB when VTEC hit and it worked but now I run them open all the time.

00WhiteEKy

so when you start up your car, does it suck close? im not aware that the H22 had secondary butterflies. so what your saying is that your ecu didn't put out a ground at A17?? is that what your problem was? so you used the ground on the vtec to make it work? what would make the ecu not put out a ground at the IAB pin? bad ecu? so how does the computer actally turn on and off the IAB selenoid? does it put out a ground at A17, and then at 6500 it opens the ground?
so to make sure its right, i just test A17 and a ground when the key is turned but car if off? wouldn't you want to test it while the car is running?


[Modified by 92hatchy, 3:17 AM 3/27/2003]


[Modified by 92hatchy, 3:19 AM 3/27/2003]

fastwanabe

right, when you start the car the ECU is suppose to ground the silenoid to suck it shut, however my IAB would never suck shut till I used a DPDT replay to apply ground and complete the circuit and would disconnect ground when the relay recieved 12v from the VTEC silenoid then the IAB would let go and the secondaires would open. it worked except my VTEC dont kick on till 5300rpms and the secondaires are suppose to open @ 4400rpm so I just trashed the whole relay deal and left them open.

poison

yeah, h22 has secondary butterflies and it's a pain in the *** to connect and working properly.

I still have yet to find someone who has secondary butterflies on an h22 to fucntion properly.

I have no idea how you hooked up the relay to disconnect ground when vtec kicks in fastwanabe

I would just hook up a vacuum line to the side of the manifold and it opens depending on how hard you push on the throttle. As for the GSR, I'd try my *** off to hook it up properly because it's gutless w/o 'em =X

my iab's suck close when i turn on the car.

poison

deleted your reply huh?

there really isn't a theory behind it. I just decided to have 'em closed at low end on daily driving for more torque. that's all.

fastwanabe

my iab's suck close when i turn on the car

yes poison it would close, but I think they will REMAIN closed as vacuum rises, that why when we discussed this I couldnt understand and still dont uderstand the theory behind it. The only way I could see it work if the incoming were greater than the vacuum being produce to push the plates open but I dont think that could happen. I'm probably wrong though.

poison

have ya tried it? when you push about half throttle, they will open up. And of course at WOT they open, too.

I just have it for more torque while daily driving.

00WhiteEKy

so since you have to run a relay, becasue your ecu doesn't put out a ground, does that mean that your ecu is bad? and if so, what would casue that?

00WhiteEKy

my ecu is good, i tested it. the ecu grounds a17 when the key is turned. so thats all good.

poison

so wire her up! and make sure vacuum lines are in proper locations.

00WhiteEKy

vacume lines are on right, i have a diagram for that, and the 12v switched is right also. but it still doesn't suck closed when i start it. WTF!!!! i even ran a seperate wire to A17 and to the IAB selenoid. im not stupid, something else is screwy. This is the 3rd IAB selenoid i have tried, but maybe i should try buying a new one and see what happens,

00WhiteEKy

ok, i said screw the continuity tester, and grabed a 12 volt light I had. I hooked one end to the battey, and then started testing for good grounds. And guess what....... turned on the key, and no light in A17. that means its not a grounds. so whats wrong??? My secondaries never worked, so was my ecu bad this entire time? and im wondering what would make this go bad? if this is bad, what else could be wrong?? any help would be nice. I would be kinda pissed casue there is a nice mugen chip put in my ecu already, it would be a shame to loose it. maybe someone running a skunk 2 intake mani would trade me, then i get a working IAB, and you get a chipped P72.

fastwanabe

hey Poison, I just tried hooking it the way you said and guess what?..... it ******* works like you said it would, I took it for a spin and I could feel the difference down low and it opened up upon full throttle. I will only have to test one thing out though are you sure that it opens even under partial throttle? I ask cause when I would go slow and SLOWLY pressed on the gas till VTEC it felt like it was choking a little. I know that when I race I wont be pressing the throttle slowly but I was just wondering. thank you for the tip

PS... I will never question you again.

poison

lol. no prob

I have tried so many damn different ways with the iab's, and most people found that to feel the best.

Yeah, it opens at partial throttle. I can feel it open up, it has like a kick to it at any rpm when you give it a little more throttle.

You can test it out with the engine on. Pop the hood, and push on the throttle rotor slowly, then quick and you can see the secondary butterflies opening. You'll see how they open and close up

oh yeah, and with vtec, they will open up too, because of the vacuum vtec produces in the intake manifold, opening 'em up.

just thought i'd point that out


[Modified by poison, 11:24 PM 3/26/2003]

00WhiteEKy

yeah, too bad i have a gsr. i can't do that. i still need to find out whats wrong. time to drink some well, i was bored and just tested the selenoid. i gave it 12 volts and a ground, and WOW!!! it sucked close!!!! im so surprised. so it has something to do with the wire going to my ecu. I swear its not putting out a ground. tested it with a test light (oops, don't do that, lights don't have high enough resistance, sends power into ecu, very bad) but any who, i did test it with a light, and it didn't light up. so it had to be with the ground on the ecu. so damit......... now what??? wire up a swith and hit it at 5600 rpm's everytime??


[Modified by 92hatchy, 7:15 AM 3/27/2003]

fastwanabe

I did that same exact thing and thats when I found out that for some reason my a17 was not working. Thats when I decided to use a relay. Like I said before I went and bought a relay from radio shack, this relay would have disconnect power or ground when 12v is applied to it(vtec, rpm switch etc.).

00WhiteEKy

yeah. i kinda want it to work right, but i would just wire up a switch to controll my secondaries, but that would be a pain. but i don't want to mess with my vtec. touchy stuff.

xSpooNxEkx

i know this is a dumb question but what is IAB?

00WhiteEKy

do some searching. but since im a nice guy, ill tell you.
Intake Air Bypass (IAB) aka secondary butterflies. its what the gsr has. Its another set of intake runners that open up at a certain rpm. It gives you more TQ an low rpms. Then is opens at higher rpm's. Its one of the better gsr features. It has been dyno proven to work really good. SO since mine is not working, im not getting everything out of my motor. If you have a gsr, there is a black bottle under the intake, that is the selenoid. and if you follow the lines, there is a valve on the driver side of the intake. if you start the car, you will see the valve suck closed. Then you know its wokring right, but mine is not.

fastwanabe

ok I drove around for a day with the IAB hookup like you said and I noticed a tad bit more torque down low but it didnt rip at 5-6krpm like it use to so I just disconnected them again. I dont know, to me it FEELS faster with them open all the time. I wish I had access to a dyno!!!