ive searched and havent found the right answer. tranny makes a gargiling sound at idle but stops when the clutch pedal is pushed in. i notice the brake fluid in the resorvoir is black like carbon and when im accelerating from a stop at even normal speed, it sounds even worse almost like my tires are rubbing on the fender lining, but they arent. Also when the is deccelerating (foot of gas) it whines. i know your all gonna say throw out bearing but i know a throw out bearing has these on reverse symptons like when the clutch pedal is engaged. funny thing is, im attending wyotech and still dont know **** and why they are doing this or that ,but thats another post

OH and the car is supercharged

 

do you have any clue what this might be related to? most problems with our [Hondas] are because of things we do to them, and are directly related to some event. please try to think of something you may have done to have started this, or perhaps an event that started it. also, try to do some research on your car and tell us where certain sounds come from and find out more symptoms and such.

 

well now my clutch feels like its slipping. i recently put in es motor inserts because i noticed the motor was flexing like a bitch. the rear one was ripped and the lower left was also ripped. but when i look into the clutch cylnder resiorvoir i know that dot 3 brake fluid should be a nice clear amber color but my **** is down to the hose and carbon black. the gargiling noise is still there and seems to be getting worse. it makes the noise anytime the clutch pedal isnt depressed. almost sounds like a rod knock or pistion slap which i first thought it was, but its coming from the tranny. i dont think its the throw out bearing. supposedly its a "racing clutch" says the guy i bought it from. it was quite stiff when i bought it off him 2 weeks ago. the car is a 1996 RS w/ JDM b18b1 with bolt ons and jackson supercharged. it used to be a lot quicker two weeks ago, and that was on 87 octane hahahaha shhhh i didnt remember i wasnt driving my old car anymore!

 

well, if you ran the 'charger on 87 you may very well have problems, big time. also, the clutch is probably crap. if you didn't buy name brand, you may have a spring coming out or something. the cheap ones are just that: cheap. your clutch is not a place to skimp and get a knock-off brand.

 

yeah i ran a full tank on it but im not anymoe. well i didnt buy the clutch its the one that came in it when i bought it. and its most likely crap because the old man i bought the car off didnt know ****. but any other suggestions?? im looking at getting a action 2KS and fidanza flywheel. will it hold in the future when i bump the boost up to 10psi and uberdata tune it?


Modified by typerhedlights at 6:29 PM 4/15/2005


Modified by typerhedlights at 7:45 PM 4/15/2005

 

get a name-brand clutch. and search for information on what brand and what disc style to get, and go to manufacturer's websites to find out what level kit you'll need for your power goals. also PM ACTman. he works at ACT.

 

im gonna get a action 2kS and fidanza flywheel because ive heard nothing but excellent things about both of them. maybe lsd while the tranny is dropped. i noticed the car is harder to get into gears now like 1st specially. u think if i flush the tranny fluid and put some new fluid in it might help? what should i put in? how much is honda MTF? ill need 2 qts right?


Modified by typerhedlights at 6:11 AM 4/17/2005

 

$4 a quart at honda. need 3 quarts. yes, it might help, but probably not a whole lot unless your fluid hasn't been changed in a long time. i noticed no change when i changed mine after buying the car. i have no clue if it was ever done before, but if there was a difference, it wasn't much. rebuilt gearbox + LSD though = sweet. see signature

 

i dont think my gearbox needs rebuilding. i got some tax money coming back and will be in the market for some ****. i dont know if i can trust the obx lsd but from what ive heard people who run it say its fine. im not racing this car. its my daily driver anyways. so i wouldnt be stressing that lsd much.

 

The problem you're describing sounds to me like a bad input shaft bearing on your tranny. When you press the clutch in the tranny disengages and stops spinning (when at 0mph). That makes the noise stop. Try this: while decelerating, with the clutch pedal kept in, put it in and out of gear. Does the sound reduce when you take it out of gear? If so, you might need the slush box rebuilt. The color of the fluid in your clutch master resevoir doesn't have anything to do with your problem, but it wouldn't hurt to change it. Forget OBX. If you're going LSD, go quiafe. It ain't cheap, but you know the saying about the cheap man, don't you? Definitely stay away from the clutch types like Kaaz. They're super high maintenance and can break! Good luck!

 

will do. im gonna try that today. thats an easy fix. i rebuilt 4T60-E's all day long at school when i was in drivetrain. im gonna replace the tranny fluid becuz going into first is getting real real knotchy. the whining when im decellerating went away. now just that annoying *** gargiling sound is still there.

 

what are the symptons of a bad clutch? also when i push the clutch all the way in (the pedal) near the floor it gets like a crunchy feeling. replaced the tranny fluid yesturday with penzoil syncho. and its still knotchy going into gear. is the clutch not releasing possibly? becuz i noticed the car feels like its bogging as if something is holding it back. all i know is it was faster about two weeks ago compared to this week of driving it (ive only had it for about a month now)

 

what will happen is either one of the springs in the hub will start coming out or the clutch lining may start separating. a few things could happen to make it difficult to shift, but basically, the pressure plate is releasing all the way, but the disc is still touching the friction surface of the pressure plate and/or flywheel. new disc. napa $70.

 

yea im saving up for an action 2ks clutch and act streetlite or pro lite flywheel.

 

sounds like from readin multiple posts and bauleys write up, its the input shaft bearing. im pretty sure i can tackle the job as long as i get all the specs off alldata here at school, as i have torn apart many 4-T60E's. Ive been driving on it for awhile now and fear it might chunk into pieces locking up my tranny or damaging it, i need to find a whole day to do that **** since i go to wyotech 7-4 and work 5-10. List of **** to do:
1: Input shaft bearing
2: new clutch
3: New flywheel
4: New passenger side axle....

 

get a slide hammer. my regular slide hammer attatchment at its smallest is just small enough for the input shaft bearing. i use a special little attatchment for the countershaft bearing, since i don't want to hurt the little plastic thing that guides oil into the shaft for the gears.

 

damn its getting worst. Today i noticed with the clutch pushed and not in gear the car moves forward. i know this isnt normal! damn i need to drive the car too

 

well i went to the dealership and they didnt know **** dude. i asked for the input shaft bearing or clutch housing bearing and even the countershaft bearing to change it also. so anyone provide or point out on the acura diagrams these two bearings?

 

clutch housing:
-mainshaft bearing: 91002-PS1-003 $27
-countershaft bearing: 91101-PG1-008 $34
countershaft:
-lower bearing: 91003-P21-003 $38
-upper bearing: 91003-P21-003 $29
mainshaft:
-bearing: 91004-P21-003 $58

 

ok which ones do u suggest i replace? i mean i dont want one to go bad later because i didnt replace it. Also any oil seals or little things that should be replaced also? thanks for responding man youeve been a real big help

 

anything you remove, replace. if you remove the clutch housing bearing for the mainshaft, replace the input shaft oil seal. replace the axle seals as long as you're getting stuff from acura. if you don't replace a bearing, no need to replace, although i'm in the business for replacing all of them, so i don't really ever have to think about that one.