i got a 90 da and the motor finnaly **** itself, soo im really on a tight budget and its hard for me to decide between a b18b and the b20 i can get them both for 850$ w/40k on them soo its not really an issue but i need some help on which route to go, i hear the swaps on these engines are easy as cake actully the computer i have will plug right in with no problems other than injectors and dizzy which i will reuse from b18a i got..... help me out i figure u guys got the know-how and have seen both these swaps done, thanks again

 

B20 All the way...
Instant 15 ft/lbs of torque!
And if your staying all motor, def get the bigger bore engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20 All the way...
Instant 15 ft/lbs of torque!
And if your staying all motor, def get the bigger bore engine </TD></TR></TABLE>There is a drawback to going with the bigger bore engine. Even though its a bigger bore you will run some really low compression opposed to the b18 where you can get oem pistons to raise compression past 12.5cr. The b20 has weaker sleeves and can not be revved as high as the b18...I would personally build the 1.8...you can get great power out of a b18 once you add a vtec head and some oem components...

 

I personally say b20, i've had a ls motor and a b16 in my coupe, and the b20 by far was the best option for daily driving. I get real good gas milage, and never rev passed 5-6k cause there really isnt any need.

 

B20 man, and there is no need to resleeve the block only your boostin or squeezing. With some forged pistons and rods, the block can easily take 9k. Of course, your not going to be banging that all day long but it is definately safe.

 

b20!

 

B20!

No replacement for displacement!

 

i think 90% of everyone i have asked suggested i go b20 and build off that... is it true that almost every b18 aftermarket part will bolt right up other than pisotns/rods... cause i was asking around about the amount of aftermarket parts and it seems like they are pretty limited compared to the b18 unless this is true... Thanks guys u have been great help

 

Besides pistons and block everything is the same for b18 and b20

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infamousR13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Besides pistons and block everything is the same for b18 and b20</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes even teh crank and rods are the same!

 

LS. Has a larger amount and cheaper array of aftermarket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thevanitygroup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LS. Has a larger amount and cheaper array of aftermarket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything that will fit on an LS will fit on a B20 except Pistons b/c the B18a/b is 81mm bore, and the B20b/z is 84mm bore.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 626CivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20 man, and there is no need to resleeve the block only your boostin or squeezing. With some forged pistons and rods, the block can easily take 9k. Of course, your not going to be banging that all day long but it is definately safe. </TD></TR></TABLE>



I say go LS, unless you resleeve the B20. Check out these threads I found.......

Here are some quotes from these threads........
"I thought it would not happen to me with a this pretty low compression (12,0:1)"

"i've heard of b20 sleeves being weak, but seriously.. on the first start"

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=501129
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1187706

So with that posted............LS

 

w0w so funny u find those threads, buddies of mine have this swap and car has run strong for a year so far, but whatever, just my opinion.

 

well, you havn't stated your goals for this car. Is it going to be a daily driver or a built up racing car. A lot of people seem to jump to conclusions here.

If its a daily driverish car with only bolt ons planned for it, by far get a b20 in there; way more sasifying drive. Its the engine honda should have put in there in the first place. Considering you have to pull the engine anyway, and they're the same cost, its a no brainer.

if its a USDM b20b, then the 0.4cr diff won't mean stink. The b20b will make as much hp as the b18b stock, have a bigger fatter torque curve and can rev to you're stock redline fine.

My only suggestion is get a b18b intake manifold on there if you can, the b18a mani really chokes that engine off. I assume you DA is a 5-speed?

d

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, you havn't stated your goals for this car. Is it going to be a daily driver or a built up racing car. A lot of people seem to jump to conclusions here.

If its a daily driverish car with only bolt ons planned for it, by far get a b20 in there; way more sasifying drive. Its the engine honda should have put in there in the first place. Considering you have to pull the engine anyway, and they're the same cost, its a no brainer.

if its a USDM b20b, then the 0.4cr diff won't mean stink. The b20b will make as much hp as the b18b stock, have a bigger fatter torque curve and can rev to you're stock redline fine.

My only suggestion is get a b18b intake manifold on there if you can, the b18a mani really chokes that engine off. I assume you DA is a 5-speed?

d</TD></TR></TABLE>


I agree

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drchulo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a drawback to going with the bigger bore engine. Even though its a bigger bore you will run some really low compression opposed to the b18 where you can get oem pistons to raise compression past 12.5cr. The b20 has weaker sleeves and can not be revved as high as the b18...I would personally build the 1.8...you can get great power out of a b18 once you add a vtec head and some oem components...</TD></TR></TABLE>

eh u can run 12:1 compression in a stock sleeve b20 block and even if u dont want to rev high with the displacement u can make a shitload of torque compared to a lsvtec with oem (itr or ctr)pistons. b20vtec wit some IB spec pistons whew block will make the power and last

 

yea well i just purchased teh b20 and its on its way from japan, but i guess my next question would have to be concerning the manifold cause i dont really have the cash to put into a new manifold but i wanted one anyway, considering the manifold ports are larger runners are fatter/shorter, and the throttle body in the b18b is 2 mm larger than the 58mm b18a TB but i think id prolly have to go to a junkyard to snag one of them cause im short on cash. but thanks again guys my DA will soon b quite sick

 

skunk2 IM and either a aftermarket tb or a itr ud be happiest with.

 

keep me posted on the b20 about to do the same swap too

 

congratulations on choosing the b20. Yes, don't put the DA intake manifold on there, but don't jump at anything, because you might end up with the low rise b20 intake mani engine.

Also, i'm fairly certain that the b18b throttle body is only 58mm, but i can't prove it; my b20 tb is definately 60mm tho. You can't use your b18a tb on the b20 intake mani tho.

http://www.g2ic.com/forums/sho...guide here's a write-up i did of my first b20 swap 3 years ago.

d

 

B18a Tb is 58mm; B18b TB is 60mm(or at least mine was). B20 TB is 60mm.

 

i know there a thread here that listed all the bore dia of honda tb's, and it listed teh b18b as 60mm. But i've seen others say no it is not. More recently one guy on a different forum measured his on the spot and said it is 58mm. ANother anomaly i guess.

d