My CRVtec setup.. some questions
This is my setup:
B20B block
GSR head
Skunk2 Stage2 cams
Omni valvespring&retainer
Hondata Stage3
OEM 3layer Headgasket
B18 injectors
ITR headstuds
DC 4-1 headers
2.5" pipes(no cat/reso)
Straight thru design muffler
After a month, the car is finally done and running. The machine shop messed up my P72 head and the B20B block by doing more harm than good when i had them resurfaced. I took them to another place and they took care of the water leak problem. Since i was using a B16 ECU, a relay was put so that the secondary butterflies of the GSR IM would open as vtec engaged. Compression was 225 in all 4cyl.
Modified by EG6R at 4:34 AM 5/27/2005
B20B block
GSR head
Skunk2 Stage2 cams
Omni valvespring&retainer
Hondata Stage3
OEM 3layer Headgasket
B18 injectors
ITR headstuds
DC 4-1 headers
2.5" pipes(no cat/reso)
Straight thru design muffler
After a month, the car is finally done and running. The machine shop messed up my P72 head and the B20B block by doing more harm than good when i had them resurfaced. I took them to another place and they took care of the water leak problem. Since i was using a B16 ECU, a relay was put so that the secondary butterflies of the GSR IM would open as vtec engaged. Compression was 225 in all 4cyl.
Modified by EG6R at 4:34 AM 5/27/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 626CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think u should bump the compression</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for answering all my questions.
thanks for answering all my questions.
what are you wanting from this motor, i hope its just a putt around motor, maybe in a grocery getter or something. You will not be able to rev with reliability on that motor, the non-vtec pistons are guaranteed not to clay out enough clearance, you want atleast a thousands of an inch. Your bottom end is extremely weak, it has no stability to hold that crank from walking. anyhow to your questions,
all vtec pumps are the same for the b-series motors, if its not a vtec, it will not suport enough pressure to get vtec from it,
if you want a raised compression, dont bring the head closer to the block, messing with the head gasket is worthless. replace the slugs, it wont be that much more.
the valve reliefs are not as big as needed for the vtec lift or duration of the vtec lobe.
dont change your mid pipes, you will do just fine with plenty of back pressure, reason being, that motor will not net you alot of high flow numbers and therefore not high end horsepower but it will have plenty of torque. this sounds like the most american made honda motor yet.
all vtec pumps are the same for the b-series motors, if its not a vtec, it will not suport enough pressure to get vtec from it,
if you want a raised compression, dont bring the head closer to the block, messing with the head gasket is worthless. replace the slugs, it wont be that much more.
the valve reliefs are not as big as needed for the vtec lift or duration of the vtec lobe.
dont change your mid pipes, you will do just fine with plenty of back pressure, reason being, that motor will not net you alot of high flow numbers and therefore not high end horsepower but it will have plenty of torque. this sounds like the most american made honda motor yet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG6R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thanks for answering all my questions. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I wasn't answering your questions, just giving u something to think about
thanks for answering all my questions. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I wasn't answering your questions, just giving u something to think about
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG6R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is my setup:
B20B stock block
GSR head
Skunk2 Stage2 cams
Omni valvespring&retainer
Hondata Stage3
I/H/E
A couple of questions:
1) Im thinking of replacing the oil pump. Are all Bseries oil pumps the same or should i get one specifically for the B20? I just get the vtec counterparts just to get them, ran into problems onetime when I could bot get timing out of it and when I changed it the vtec counterparts I got all my probelsm solved. I t's just saves time but you do what you like it all works out if you know what you doing.
2) To raise compression can i get a bnew OEM 3layer head gasket, rip off 2 layers and just copper spray the remaining? I mean it's good for like .2 so I mean I t won't raelly be that crazy I mean maybe a 1-2 hp if even that it all depend with everything else.
3) Should i notch the piston valve reliefs? I dont want to lose compression as it is because im using stock B20B slugs. (aftermarket pistons is not an option)Yes you should I would have my motor to spec with the valve reliefs on those pistons as you will smake those ends with the size of the sk s2 cams. I had itr cams and it was knicking the ends so its not worth it if you dont plan on opening up the head soon.
4) Ive a DC 4-1 and a Spoon N1 exhaust. I plan to change my midpipes to 2 3/4" or 3"(no cat/reso). Or am i better off with just 2.5" pipes? go with the bigger piping as I dont know the outlet of the spoon exhaust ( I think it's small though?) your car will flow nice.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Should be a nice setup. Goodluck
B20B stock block
GSR head
Skunk2 Stage2 cams
Omni valvespring&retainer
Hondata Stage3
I/H/E
A couple of questions:
1) Im thinking of replacing the oil pump. Are all Bseries oil pumps the same or should i get one specifically for the B20? I just get the vtec counterparts just to get them, ran into problems onetime when I could bot get timing out of it and when I changed it the vtec counterparts I got all my probelsm solved. I t's just saves time but you do what you like it all works out if you know what you doing.
2) To raise compression can i get a bnew OEM 3layer head gasket, rip off 2 layers and just copper spray the remaining? I mean it's good for like .2 so I mean I t won't raelly be that crazy I mean maybe a 1-2 hp if even that it all depend with everything else.
3) Should i notch the piston valve reliefs? I dont want to lose compression as it is because im using stock B20B slugs. (aftermarket pistons is not an option)Yes you should I would have my motor to spec with the valve reliefs on those pistons as you will smake those ends with the size of the sk s2 cams. I had itr cams and it was knicking the ends so its not worth it if you dont plan on opening up the head soon.
4) Ive a DC 4-1 and a Spoon N1 exhaust. I plan to change my midpipes to 2 3/4" or 3"(no cat/reso). Or am i better off with just 2.5" pipes? go with the bigger piping as I dont know the outlet of the spoon exhaust ( I think it's small though?) your car will flow nice.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Should be a nice setup. Goodluck
but i remember i while back , OMNIMAN"S street b20, made 200 plus maybe 220, forgot already.. he made that much power, and it was on a stock block, just bumped the comp a little to 10:7 :1 just milled and thin head gasket,...the setup is almost exactly the same,...i think it's a pretty descent set up, my friend made 190 stock block , and no porting
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pomansouth01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are you wanting from this motor, i hope its just a putt around motor, maybe in a grocery getter or something. You will not be able to rev with reliability on that motor, the non-vtec pistons are guaranteed not to clay out enough clearance, you want atleast a thousands of an inch. Your bottom end is extremely weak, it has no stability to hold that crank from walking. anyhow to your questions,
all vtec pumps are the same for the b-series motors, if its not a vtec, it will not suport enough pressure to get vtec from it,
if you want a raised compression, dont bring the head closer to the block, messing with the head gasket is worthless. replace the slugs, it wont be that much more.
the valve reliefs are not as big as needed for the vtec lift or duration of the vtec lobe.
dont change your mid pipes, you will do just fine with plenty of back pressure, reason being, that motor will not net you alot of high flow numbers and therefore not high end horsepower but it will have plenty of torque. this sounds like the most american made honda motor yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So I take it you've built a few b20vtecs
all vtec pumps are the same for the b-series motors, if its not a vtec, it will not suport enough pressure to get vtec from it,
if you want a raised compression, dont bring the head closer to the block, messing with the head gasket is worthless. replace the slugs, it wont be that much more.
the valve reliefs are not as big as needed for the vtec lift or duration of the vtec lobe.
dont change your mid pipes, you will do just fine with plenty of back pressure, reason being, that motor will not net you alot of high flow numbers and therefore not high end horsepower but it will have plenty of torque. this sounds like the most american made honda motor yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So I take it you've built a few b20vtecs
Motor is now finally in the car, but there is a problem with water leaking. Someone HELP. Here is the link: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1215773
i always heared b20 block sleeves r weak y not resleeve to save urself the trouble later....Also can the block accept revs over7500 i mean this block was built for the crv not to race n rev to 9000rpm...I say make stronger with sleeves,block girdle,new pistons before proceeding...
just my 2 cents
just my 2 cents
1 b20 pump is fine
2 no it will make your P to V clearance worse
3 yes you need to or you will hit the pistons
4 2.5" is fine, i dont see a real reason to go bigger unless you go with more compression
5 yes
2 no it will make your P to V clearance worse
3 yes you need to or you will hit the pistons
4 2.5" is fine, i dont see a real reason to go bigger unless you go with more compression
5 yes
no, never ever built the first b20v, but I have been told that these sorts of things need to be done and also, building a ls/vtec right now as we speak.
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