Hydro or Cable
Ok guys I have an 89 HF that I am building. I am going to be puttin down quite a bit of horsepower with SOHC woot woot. I have two Z6 trannys but I am lookin for a Y8 but my question is should I convert over to hydro and use those trans or find an SI cable tranny? I am not scared of converting it because I have a 92-95 that is crashed that I can rape everything from. Please any input is appreciated and if you know of any thorough write ups I would appreciate it. Thanks
James
James
Hydro is the way to go. If you are going to be putting down good hp over stock you will want to upgrade your clutch as well. If you are planning on racing it on the strip imagine trying to preload a cable trans at the tree when you are running a heavy clutch. When possible use hydro. You'll be ahead. Its quicker, smoother easier on the nerves at the tree...IMO. I've converted my ZC cable to hydro and am glad I did.
hitman is right, Hydro is the way to go, BUT (you just knew there was going to be one), you need to fab up some motor mounts because no one sells a d-series hydraulic transmission conversion. If you can find, go for it.
Hitman, you CAN upgrade your clutch/pp in a cable transmission. Might be a little harder to push in, but you will have a heavy duty clutch.
Hitman, you CAN upgrade your clutch/pp in a cable transmission. Might be a little harder to push in, but you will have a heavy duty clutch.
or you could fab up a clutch master cylinder.
thats what the guy was talking about, the advantages of smoothness with hydro, you lose those with the hasport kit.
i, personally, don't have a problem with the cable, but if you think it'll hold more and you're good at fab work, do it.
thats what the guy was talking about, the advantages of smoothness with hydro, you lose those with the hasport kit.
i, personally, don't have a problem with the cable, but if you think it'll hold more and you're good at fab work, do it.
yes. I used a pedal and master cylinder from lanes automotive, bought a puller slave cylinder, bent up some brake lines and I'm good to go. I had to fab a bracket the bolts in the stock cable bracket location on the trans case to mount the slave. Its all good. good luck.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicnar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If anyone has any good write ups or helpful info I would appreciate it. Thanks
James</TD></TR></TABLE>
James</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hitman187 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes. I used a pedal and master cylinder from lanes automotive, bought a puller slave cylinder, bent up some brake lines and I'm good to go. I had to fab a bracket the bolts in the stock cable bracket location on the trans case to mount the slave. Its all good. good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Care to do a write-up?
Care to do a write-up?
I didn't think it was too hard. look up "LANES" on google. They have tons of race items....I said race, not rice.
I don't remember what I paid for the pedal w/ master cylinder, but the slave cylinder, (CNC slave cylinder, a puller...very important) was around $50.00. Seeing how I live about 45 min away I drove there, so no shipping either.
This is a good project to do. Don't be intimindated...there is nothing you can't screw up that someone else can't fix.
The hardest part is the pedal placement. You may have to relieve an area in the firewall for the master cylinder to pass thru, cut a neat and clean hole with a hole saw. The slave cylinder is mounted vertically above the throw-out arm where the cable normally runs. basically, I used steel to make a taller bracket than the stock one. The aftermarket slave is designed to be way adjustable. The bracket has to get you into the ball park, it doesn't have to be dead nuts on. I then bolted the slave to it and hooked it up to the arm. The rest is plumbing, just like brake lines. After its installed, and bled, you'll have some time in tuning the throw length. Trial and error is how that is done...sorry. I'll see if I have time to get pictures up in the future.
I've noticed that I'm a trial user...how do I subscribe?
I don't remember what I paid for the pedal w/ master cylinder, but the slave cylinder, (CNC slave cylinder, a puller...very important) was around $50.00. Seeing how I live about 45 min away I drove there, so no shipping either. This is a good project to do. Don't be intimindated...there is nothing you can't screw up that someone else can't fix.
The hardest part is the pedal placement. You may have to relieve an area in the firewall for the master cylinder to pass thru, cut a neat and clean hole with a hole saw. The slave cylinder is mounted vertically above the throw-out arm where the cable normally runs. basically, I used steel to make a taller bracket than the stock one. The aftermarket slave is designed to be way adjustable. The bracket has to get you into the ball park, it doesn't have to be dead nuts on. I then bolted the slave to it and hooked it up to the arm. The rest is plumbing, just like brake lines. After its installed, and bled, you'll have some time in tuning the throw length. Trial and error is how that is done...sorry. I'll see if I have time to get pictures up in the future. I've noticed that I'm a trial user...how do I subscribe?
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ldanphanl
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Mar 6, 2005 08:50 PM



Its seems too difficult for me...

