does anyone have this setup in a 88 crx si and what were your 1/4 mile times... im gonna be dropping one in a 88 si and using a 8lb flywheel with headers, full exhaust no cat, and cai and for vtec i will be running msd activatein (sp) switch

 

I am saying mid 15's maybe but it is dependent on too many variables to give an accurate estimate. I am not a big fan of running VTEC just using a switch. VTEC is more than just switching the cam lobe. VTEC cars use different fuel and timing maps for when the car is in and out of VTEC. To get the best possible results you need to run the correct VTEC ecu or have the VTEC maps chipped onto your ecu and then use the switch.

 

by what you just said, I am assuming you will be running it with a PM6 ecu or some kind of a non-vtec ecu. With that, you will run (guestimating) mid 15s. Get the right ecu, a nice cam, and the right ecu and you will hit mid 14s (at sea level with a good run).

And I would like to stress what 91civic said, he is 100% correct.

 

well i plan on getting a apexi vtec controler also... u still only thing mid 15s even with a 8lb flyhwheel? full exhaust, headers, cai...

 

VAFC still only controls VTEC engagement and very coarse fuel adjustment. It is not optimal but will work ok. I still say mid 15's though because there are plenty of other variables that affect 1/4 mile time like track and weather conditions, driver skill, tires, suspension setup, etc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA91TEGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does anyone have this setup in a 88 crx si and what were your 1/4 mile times... im gonna be dropping one in a 88 si and using a 8lb flywheel with headers, full exhaust no cat, and cai and for vtec i will be running msd activatein (sp) switch</TD></TR></TABLE>

mid to low 15's. there's really more factors than the parts you throw money at however. but mid to low 15's is a good average from what i've seen. i'd probably lean more towards low 15's.

 

hopefully ill hit low 15s... i used to have a 1992 civic 4 door with a ls motor, and b16 tranny... with header, full exhaust, and intake i ran 14.6 my best time... and a constant 14.8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA91TEGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hopefully ill hit low 15s... i used to have a 1992 civic 4 door with a ls motor, and b16 tranny... with header, full exhaust, and intake i ran 14.6 my best time... and a constant 14.8</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah but the LS had torque from the 1.8L and the d16z6 is lacking in that department.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah but the LS had torque from the 1.8L and the d16z6 is lacking in that department.</TD></TR></TABLE> And the B16 transmission has nicer gear ratios

 

went 14.6 with a header , cai, exhaust

 

yeah 14.6

 

Just for the hell of it, do you have a time-slip so we can skip this part of the discussion?

 

why not do a mini me and use the y8 2 layer gasket? youll get higher compression than the stock z6 and you should go to obd1, or use a ps9 chipped and get an adjustable cam gear for the mini me.

holy **** i was just playin around on a compression calculator and with a mini me on an a6 and some pm7pistons and the z6 head gasket youd get a 12.8:1 and with the y8 youd get 13.3:1. thats insane.

 

Did you set the compression heights right?

 

yeah heres the site give it a shot.
http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm

 

save yourself the trouble and do a obd 1 conversion...and not buy the apexi.... i have seen mini mes run 14.2 with I/H/E ....just converted it to obd1 and you WILL hear vtec engage and feel it....stop wasting money trying to go around not converted adn do it right the first time....just a couple days ago someone on here had mini me and bolt ons and stage 2 cower cams and ran a 13.6

 

Yea, I agree... OBD1 is the way to go!

 

to make it obd-1 i just have to buy the harness that plugs into the ecu?

 

no you have to buy a obd 1 ecu p28 preferablly...then these you can make yourself but not really worth the hassle so i you can buy the whole set at rywire.com. you have to have a obd 1 ecu..conversion wire for obd 0 to 1 and then you have to have to repin or buy the jumper for the dizzy..and a obd 1 vtec dizzy...those are the basics...oh and you have to wire up vtec...4 wire o2 or you can buy the kit like i did

 

Buy the kit, and buy it all from rywire.com, trust me!

 

ok i read the site... it talks about changing over to 4 wire o2 sensor... how do you change that... i mean i know how to change a o2 sensor but what do you rewire it to?

 

you just buy a 4 wire o2.... and they have a plug for it..when you convert to obd 1 you have no need for your old plug...its really simple...wireing is perfect....you cant do it wrong....i bought the kit couldnt be happier...