I just recieved my new ls/vtec motor.. the specs are... 92 ls block cleaned and honed. new bearings gaskets rings etc.... new srp 11.1 pistons. 99 b16 head cleaned and decked... arp headstuds and rod bolts.... 8lb clutch masters flywheel/exedy stage 1 clutch..... golden eagle ls/vtec conversion kit... what do I need to do before I make the first start up......

 

wideband

 

do a dry start up first....

 

Many people will crank the engine over, with the ignition off so it won't start, this allows the oil pump to get some oil through the engine. I'm not really crazy about this but it is better than starting it up dry.

Go to Lowes/Home Depot and get yourself a cheap 1 gallon pesticide sprayer and clean it out. Remove the nozzle and replace with some hose, remove the oil pressure switch and install an adapter, then hook the rubber hose from the sprayer to the adapter. Fill the sprayer with 2 quarts of oil, pump up and lock the handle of the sprayer open. Sit back and wait. This will force oil through the engine without having to start it, if you remove the oil filler cap you'll actually start hearing the oil come up through the valve train and camshafts.

 

I like to take the valve cover off and just pour oil allover everything..
but I guess thats not gonna coat ur pistons/crank...

also use some conventional 10w30/40 stuff for the breakin

 

Yeah I just wanted to know what is the best oil to run for the breakin period... This will be the first motor I have broke in.... I just wanted to do it right...

 

first startup,

i crank it over some to try to get oil, but i am not concerned in 5 sec the whole engine will get pressure and i always lube everythig proper..

first crank i idle it till its warm then shut it down and wait till cool, recheck stuff (lash fluid level) then take it out for a spin

 

Put the most badass magnet you can get on the oil filter. If you're industrious you'll cut the filter open after 500 miles and be amazed, as I was.

 

I remember reading a thread a while back that involved some controversy on oil pressure when you're cranking the engine (distributor disconnected, so it won't fire up). The oil pump doesn't get a chance to build up much pressure at cranking speed, so the sprayer idea sounds like the best.

Now I wonder... if someone who knew what they were doing built that motor, they used assembly lube or at least pre-oiled the crank and valvetrain. So when you do start, that assembly lube prevents a "dry" startup.

 

what about his a/f ratio, im going to be build my first motor here soon so iim subcribing to watch the thread

 

i know he used assembly lube on the motor cause he told me that he used a lot...

 

pull out all 4 sparkplugs and unplug the distributor harness plug ... crank a few times, it spins fast enough to prime up pretty good.

make sure you have a GOOD startup program in your ecu that will start right away and no FLOODING of fuel.

Greg

 

Not to hijack the threadbut then what about the actual break in, I have read many schools of thought on this. The standard baby it for 500-1000 miles and more recently romp on it hard to seat rings properly. For my build I was debating just breaking in the bottom end first, before trying to run it on wicked cams/injectors, then after break in put in my cams, and get it fully tuned. thoughts on this?

 

yeah that is another question ....... what oil to run for the 500-1000 breakin period??? and how many mile should u wait till u start using synthetic oils...

 

I cranked the motor over as Cheetah did until the oil pressure light went off. Took about 1 minute of cranking. Then I put the plugs back in and the fuel injector fuse and cranked to start it up.

Fired right up. I immediately dialed in a 14.7 afr on the PLX. I then proceeded to let it idle until the fan kicked on (15 minutes or so).

Raise the car up, drain the oil change the oil filter, went right out and started dialing in the afr WOT in 1000 rpm increments on the street and letting it compression break 2000-3000 rpms after each progressive pass. Motor currently has a little over 700 miles on it and pegs the compresion tester to the 300 psi mark in about 3 cranks. Have not done a leak down test yet, but I suspect it is very good.