hey guys i was wondering if anyone had pictures of, or new the differereces between the new and old camber kits (not the pro-series), other than that the newer ones adjust up to +\- 4 degrees instead of +\-2. my car is lowered a couple of inches i can adjust the camber kit all the way + but i still have about a degree of negative camber i think it might be that i have the older model if not what else could be setting it off.

 

You are well aware you are SUPPOSE to have negative camber right?

 

yeah to a degree, it helps with handeling but right now all it is doing is killing my tires.

 

A degree of negative camber is not going to kill your tires in fact that falls within the stock tolerances called for in the shop manuals. More than likely, you have too much toe. I have run at more than 2 degees of negative camber with 16 of an inch toe out in the front and 0 toe in the rear with little to no unusual wear on the tires.

If this is a street car, I would suggest you take it to a reliable alignment shop and have them at the very least zero your toe front and back.

 

Here is a pic of the new kit, but Crosser hit the nail on the head. 0 camber is not good.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98lsskunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah to a degree, it helps with handeling but right now all it is doing is killing my tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Another common misconception. Have you had an alignment yet? Or lately? What was your toe settings like? You should have 0 all the way around. I had the Skunk2 kit on my old car along with an Ingalls kit in the rear to dial in MORE camber. I ran 2.5 degrees negative front and 1.5 rear. Tires wore beautifully.

If your inside tire edge is wearing like all lowered Hondas because they don't get an alignment, your toe would be out of spec. I also ran 1/16" total toe out in the front and 0 in the rear also. Either way you DO NOT WANT 0 camber. Just in case you may think I'm mistaken try it one time and leave the toe how it is. Your tire wear issues won't get any better.

 

yes i know but my tires are like this / \ almost its really bad you can look at the tire and see the contact patch is on the inside, what would be useful is some measurements of how long the the ajustment slot is on the new camber kit. because im kinda convinced that i have the older ones, but i want to make sure before i sell them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98lsskunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes i know but my tires are like this / \ almost its really bad you can look at the tire and see the contact patch is on the inside, what would be useful is some measurements of how long the the ajustment slot is on the new camber kit. because im kinda convinced that i have the older ones, but i want to make sure before i sell them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I really don't think you are getting it. Have you gotten an alignment yet? If so what were your camber specs on the front and what were the toe specs? I had my Skunk2 arms almost all the way towards the wheel/tire just so I could get 2.5 degrees of negative camber. It looks worse then it really is. I'm telling you if your inside tire edge is wearing it's from toe, not camber. Honestly you really don't even need camber kits. The ONLY reason I got them was because after installing my GC's on my car I wanted MORE negative camber.

If you haven't gotten an alignment yet, go get one. Tell them you want 0 toe all around. Tell them to set your camber to factory spec if you already have the Skunk2 arms. You don't need the new ones.

 

If your camber is is negative to the point that you can see it just looking at the wheel, you have WAY more than 1 degree of negative camber. Again, before you spend money on parts you may not need, the first thing you should do is take it and get an alignment and make sure they give you a print out of what the initial and final measurements were. From there you have a solid starting point to make a decision on what is really needed.

 

yes i do get it, im sure it is off buy more than i degree i really dont know yet, my toe is off and it is wearing down my tires also but i dont want to much negative camber even if it isnt tearing up my rubbers to bad. it sacrifices strait-line traction for handeling i dont really autoX ive tried it and im not to good, i just posted in here because you guys deal with camber-specs more often than anyone. I JUST NEED SOME MEASUREMENTS OF THE ADJUSTMENT SLOT OF A 4 DEGREE AJUSTABLE SK2 CAMBER KIT.

 

Dude your not getting it. Set aside trying to figure out which kit you have and take the car to an alignment shop to see how your car is setup. because if you dont, it wont make a difference which kit you have..

got it?

 

Top part that connects to the knuckle is different....it clamps down instead of just having 4 bolts hold it in place.

 

you're not getting it, i know my tegs alignment is off im gonna get aligned when i get my new coilovers so i can shim the back tires so i dont have to worry about throwing it off. even after i get the toe corrected my tires are still going to be angled in. im not stupid

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Hammond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I really don't think you are getting it. Have you gotten an alignment yet? If so what were your camber specs on the front and what were the toe specs? I had my Skunk2 arms almost all the way towards the wheel/tire just so I could get 2.5 degrees of negative camber. It looks worse then it really is. I'm telling you if your inside tire edge is wearing it's from toe, not camber. Honestly you really don't even need camber kits. The ONLY reason I got them was because after installing my GC's on my car I wanted MORE negative camber.

If you haven't gotten an alignment yet, go get one. Tell them you want 0 toe all around. Tell them to set your camber to factory spec if you already have the Skunk2 arms. You don't need the new ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i cant set my camber to factory spec because the camber is adjusted all the way out and i still have slanted wheels.

 

Hmmm, IIRC, factory spec range is +/- 1*. How low is your car? With it all the way out, it shouldn't be that bad. With proper toe adjustment, even -1* shouldn't cause any real wear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98lsskunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i cant set my camber to factory spec because the camber is adjusted all the way out and i still have slanted wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Produce numbers then. Either you car is lowered some 4+ inches, or it looks worse then it is. Are you just thinking you need new controls arms because you moved the Skunk2 arms all the way and you think your wheels still look slanted? Go get the car on a rack and see the numbers before you do anything. Like I said either your car is sitting on the bump stops or you have accident damage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Hammond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Produce numbers then. Either you car is lowered some 4+ inches, or it looks worse then it is. Are you just thinking you need new controls arms because you moved the Skunk2 arms all the way and you think your wheels still look slanted? Go get the car on a rack and see the numbers before you do anything. Like I said either your car is sitting on the bump stops or you have accident damage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. We are really trying to save you money here.

 

ok im taking my car to the alignment shop monday i'll post an update.

 

also why im so stumped is that my friend has the same camber kit as me and our cars are lowered about the same ammount but his camber looks fine when ajusted not even all the way out but my camber adjusted all the way out its is still twice as negative as his

 

sounds like something is bent.