well anyone have any ideas,,, my tierods are completely messed and im trying to get the ****** castle nut off so i can replace them but the actual shaft of the tierod is just spinning with the ratchet and airgun...

we tried jamming a pickle fork in ther,e tried getting someon to step on it, tried jacking up the a-arm so the tierod is straight, tried holding it with vice grips (not enough room to do that)

somebody got an idea?

 

Jam the pickle fork, I suggest a scew driver or a big pry bar. Have someone step on that.

 

you could always just cut them off if you have a cutoff wheel or a hacksaw

 

no pry bar no nothing. I used a frigin HAMMER!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast88std &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no pry bar no nothing. I used a frigin HAMMER!</TD></TR></TABLE>

How is a hammer gonna keep the stud from spinning ?

 

well... correct me if im wrong but your talking about the bottem ball join and the Lower control arm right?

You take your rachet put it on the castle nut and then you hit the rachet with the hammer as hard as you can.... your goal here is to spin the nut faster then the ball joint can spin...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well... correct me if im wrong but your talking about the bottem ball join and the Lower control arm right?

You take your rachet put it on the castle nut and then you hit the rachet with the hammer as hard as you can.... your goal here is to spin the nut faster then the ball joint can spin... </TD></TR></TABLE> i see what your saying, but we used an airgun with 300 ft lbs of torque taht should be able to spin faster then a hammer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jam the pickle fork, I suggest a scew driver or a big pry bar. Have someone step on that.</TD></TR></TABLE> did this too

i dont really wanna cut it off but i guess i could if i really absolutely have to, i'd rather not

any other ideas guys?

thanks for the ideas tho

 

Lub the threads up really good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91_civicsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont really wanna cut it off but i guess i could if i really absolutely have to, i'd rather not</TD></TR></TABLE>

didnt you say that your replacing the tie rod anyway? if your going to replace it you wouldn't have any use for a broken tie rod anyway

 

but still i need to get the stud out of the steering knuckle :S and cutting the tierod would just split it in half, then im still fucked with the actual stud in the steering knuckle/spindle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91_civicsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but still i need to get the stud out of the steering knuckle :S and cutting the tierod would just split it in half, then im still fucked with the actual stud in the steering knuckle/spindle
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you cut it above the nut, then use a punch and hammer it out. Simple as that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91_civicsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but still i need to get the stud out of the steering knuckle :S and cutting the tierod would just split it in half, then im still fucked with the actual stud in the steering knuckle/spindle
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Assuming that you got the castle nut broke loose and now the castle nut and tie rod stud both spin together. The tie rod stud is tapered. Put a jack on the bottom of the tie rod and jack up into the knuckle. This should bottom out the taper and lock the stud enough to get the castle nut off. Works for me!
HTH
chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NCchris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Assuming that you got the castle nut broke loose and now the castle nut and tie rod stud both spin together. The tie rod stud is tapered. Put a jack on the bottom of the tie rod and jack up into the knuckle. This should bottom out the taper and lock the stud enough to get the castle nut off. Works for me!
HTH
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i do

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91_civicsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i see what your saying, but we used an airgun with 300 ft lbs of torque taht should be able to spin faster then a hammer

did this too

i dont really wanna cut it off but i guess i could if i really absolutely have to, i'd rather not

any other ideas guys?

thanks for the ideas tho

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have done all of this thern the rod is fucked so first take a grinder or cutting wheel and cut the nut off...run a a couple of cuts diagonaly across the nut then take a chisel or flat head and pry open the nut so you get it of in pieces.

Then take the fork to it.

If for whatever reason you decide you want to use this rod again Take a vice grip clamp it on the smooth part of the stud and thread a new nut on and off till it goes on easily. The shaft is spinning because all that winnipeg snow ,sand, salt and **** has got in the threads + they are fucked up

 

You did remove the cotter pin didn't you? Just hit it with a sawzall and finish it off with a punch if it doesn' t ackrite.

 

MAybe try tightening the nut before loosening.
That sometimes works for me with stubborn nuts and bolts.

Could also Disconnect the inner rod from the outer and then pull the whole knuckle off for some workbench thrashing.

 

use a pair of channel locks, and squeeze the top of the tie rod to the bottom on the knuckle , then hit with the air gun.. if still wont work use the fire hammer(torch) heat it up and repeat up top...

 

ye thats the right way

 

if the joint for the tie rod is spinning inside the tie rod end itself, take a big *** hammer and hammer the balljoint downward in order to wedge it inside the knuckle, so that it will be grabbed into there so it won't turn with the threads. thats the trick we've learned to install semi-bad balljoints when short on funds. good luck.

 

alright thanks for the replies guys, i'll try those things out

thanks again

 

rip the boot off to get access to more of the stud. get the biggest pair of vice grips you can cram between the knuckle and the tierod end, and lock those bad boys on the stud. then use your airgun or whatever to get the castle nut off. try some pb blaster to make the nut come off easier.


i have used this method a few times and it will work