I was told by my "Stealership" that my rear contol arm bushings were out. I have uneven wear in the back, and a rattle on potholes and whatnot. To my question:

Can I change these out myself? If so should I change all the bushings out while its all apart? Where can I get these parts?

Sorry if this specifically has been covered. I searched and didn't get any results, maybe i didn't search the correct period.

Thanks
M@

 

You can change them yourself if you're mechanically inclined and have the right tools. I would change all of the bushings, IMO.

You can get them from the dealer or online sites.

 

they have to be pressed out & back in, so you'll have to take the arm to somewhere that has a pretty strong press.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sticky Tires &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You can get them from the dealer or online sites. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats the best site? I went to Majestic and could't find any control arm stuff.
I did find the Lowerarm stuff. Sorry if this is retarded. Should I order the a bushing kit from someplace like Energy Suspension. Price is the Point here.

I can't seem to find a write-up on this stuff. Seems crazy that noone has done that. I'll do one if its not been done.

Thanks


Modified by M@ at 1:54 PM 4/11/2005

 

Ohh yeah I saw a thread that said not to use the ES bushings on the front in some place. Was this some guys opinion or is this a real problem?
Thanks

 

Soo.. no one has energy suspension bushings?

 

don't use ES bushings in the lower control arm, but they are ok for the upper controll arms. Stick with new OEM rubber for the lower.

 

Just in the front, or front and rear?

Thanks

 

Personally I would not use them in the front or rear for the lower control arms were the arm connects to the sub frame. However, the bushings were the bottom of the shocks connect to the lower control arms are ok to have ES bushings. The problem is the ES bushings in the location were the control arm connects to the sub-frame is that it can cause major binding during suspension travel. You need to have either OEM rubber, or a spherical bearing set up for that point, and a spherical bearing is only recommended if the car is a race car because they will not last long on a street car.

 

insightfull post, thanks.

whould that be num 14 or 12 and 13


Anyother opinions?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 577HondaPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally I would not use them in the front or rear for the lower control arms were the arm connects to the sub frame. However, the bushings were the bottom of the shocks connect to the lower control arms are ok to have ES bushings. The problem is the ES bushings in the location were the control arm connects to the sub-frame is that it can cause major binding during suspension travel. You need to have either OEM rubber, or a spherical bearing set up for that point, and a spherical bearing is only recommended if the car is a race car because they will not last long on a street car.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting. I purchased the ES master kit a fronts in. I talked to Corey and he suggested putting oem in the lower front inners, but said the ES should be fine in the rear. Do you have any experience with lower rear inners binding as well. Just trying to get this straight before I do the rear. TIA

 

Number 14 is the one you want to keep OEM, or spherical bearing (ES bushing can cause binding in this location). This can happen in both front and back lower control arms. If you take your springs and shocks off and try to move the control arm up in the motion of suspension travel you will see how much the arm needs to twist (see pic.). The green arrows show needed/wanted motion, and the red arrows show the unwanted motion. The ES bushing are so hard that they do get rid of the unwanted motion but they also get rid of the needed "twisting" motion. OEM is soft enough to let this twisting happen. A solid sperical bearing is the only real way to get rid off the unwanted play and still have the needed motions, but like I said before they will wear out fast on a street car.



FWIW most SCCA and NASA club racers I know with Honda's just use OEM rubber in this location and have no problems going very fast

 

good to know. Thanks.
Can "I" press the OEM in like the ES or does the rubber make this impossible?

So do I still need to do a write up? It seems like someone would have posted a link if they knew where one was at. The good thing about my write-up will be that the cars Canadian and totally rusted. So I'll have to combate the worst conditions, but I won't be doing this till at least May(hopefully).

Thanks again 577.

matt

 

I know on my 240, I have a spherical bearing, or heim joint, on my rear upper control arms, I used a boot from http://www.bakerprecision.com/rodacc.htm