Ok, here's the deal. I have a d16y8, gt28r @8psi. DSM 450's and hondata s200b.
I got the ecu basemap put in at a local shop. They're a hondata certified dealer. I get the ecu home and put the injectors in. Car started fine with a cel, as expected. The vacumn was reading about 8, It ussually read about 20. I dunno what caused that. Then after a few minutes of idleing, the car dies out. Tried to start again, no joy. Pulled out the plugs and all 4 of them were fouled. I called the place I'm suppose to be dynoing on monday and they said to clean the plugs and let the fule air out of the cylinders. Well that's all fine and dandy, but this place is 40 miles away. Will the car make it there? What should I do???

 

why dont you drive it there with stock injectors and ecu and then take 5 min to change it out when you get there?

 

because the injectors are wired through a resistor box. Soldered and everything. Plus the ecu I'm running is obd1 and the old one is obd2. That'll take a little longer than 5 minutes to change out.

 

Get it towed.

Thats what i'm gonna do. Spot the driver $50-75 cash and you'll be okay.
It's not worth driving it and killing your engine
Even if the driver charges you up $100......still worth it.

Hope this helps.

Peace.

DAN

 

that's a possiblility. But this place is 40 miles. Towing will be wicked expensive

 

anyone? If the basemap is too rich, will the car stall out on the way to the tuner?

 

yeah it will die if it dies at idle with no throttle when u apply gas it will dump more fuel = stall.

you could borrow a computer from your friend if they have one so you can drive it to the shop.

you can rent a uhaul with the car hitch and drive the car on to it and tow it there yourself.

 

ok well I put the obd2 ecu back in and it idles like stock with the 450's. No cel no nothing. With the obd1 ecy, I'm still getting a cel and fouling out the plugs. The tuner said I should just drive it up there on obd2 without boosting. I'm going to go ahead and do that. Where the cel on the chipped obd1 ecu comming from? The ecu worked fine before I got it chipped and a basemap put in. What gives? Will the tuner be able to get rid of that cel with a tuned ecu map?

 

anyone know why I'm getting a cel with the obd1 and not the obd2???

 

Pull the code and find out what it is. If it's a solid CEL than something is wrong with the ECU or the burnt chip.

 

It's probably the chip cause I tested it out before I got the chip burned and no cel. It worked perfect. Guess it's the basemap. I hope my stock obd2 can handle these DSM 450's for 40 miles on monday.

 

I am about to be in the exact same situation you're in now. I was considering driving it there with the stock injectors and ECU, but like you said it would take more than 5 minutes to change, not to mention if there are problems.

I would have called the tuner and had a new chip made. It's possible that they messed something up when they programming the chip, or you got a faulty chip. Let us know what happens because I want to know, seeing as how the same thing will probably happen to me

 

I'm going to drive the sti=ock ecu with the dsm 450's. Just not go into boost. I'll let you know after I hit the dyno.

 

So it's running okay with the stock ecu on the 450's??? I figured it would have been the other way around... fouled plugs with the stock ecu on the 450's because it'd be running pig rich. Are you positive they are 450's?

 

Yeah it runs fine witht he stock ecu and the 450's. Not perfect but better than with the basemap. Yes thy're 450's. DSM blue tops.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zseeanz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well I put the obd2 ecu back in and it idles like stock with the 450's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That can't be right. I was trying to see if I could get an EM1 to idle on stock ECU and RC 550's. It ran for about 2 seconds and then died out. If I was you I wouldn't drive the car the way it is now. You're going to **** something up. Get a car dolley from U-Haul and a buddy with a truck to pull you to the tuner. Should run you $39.95 for the dolley and a case of beer for your buddy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That can't be right. I was trying to see if I could get an EM1 to idle on stock ECU and RC 550's. It ran for about 2 seconds and then died out. If I was you I wouldn't drive the car the way it is now. You're going to **** something up. Get a car dolley from U-Haul and a buddy with a truck to pull you to the tuner. Should run you $39.95 for the dolley and a case of beer for your buddy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to work for U-Haul... trust me if your car is low then get the Auto Transport. It'll be worth the extra $30 to you, especially if you realize this after you crush your front bumper on the tire stops. I have access to U-Haul tow equipment and trucks for free still, but for some reason I'd still rather drive it there myself when I do mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CycloneBlue_1.6EL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I used to work for U-Haul... trust me if your car is low then get the Auto Transport. It'll be worth the extra $30 to you, especially if you realize this after you crush your front bumper on the tire stops. I have access to U-Haul tow equipment and trucks for free still, but for some reason I'd still rather drive it there myself when I do mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to use a car dolley to pick up my car from St. Louis (going to Kansas City). I ended up getting the big *** trailer to haul the thing. The U-Haul guys kinda convinced me to go that route since pulling an empty dolley behind you for 4 hours at highway speeds is asking for trouble.
Anyway. I guess getting a full trailer for this guy wouldn't be bad. The only problem is that he'll have to jack the front of the trailer way the hell up and back the car onto the trailer. The front bumper won't clear the stops on the front of the trailer. I had to do it that way with mine being dropped about 2.5-3"
Anyway, just wanted to chime in.

 

Well it turns out I had to get a tow-truck. Something was wrong with the chip in the ecu. But I'm pretty happy with the results. Setup as follows:
Stock D16y8
Garret gt28r @ 10psi
Apexi N-1 exhaust
test pipe
Ended up with 209whp and 159 ftlb/tq

 

Tq is kinda low, but good you got it going. Get sime times slips with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tq is kinda low, but good you got it going. Get sime times slips with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What can be done to bring the torque up a little bit (safely)... because I have a similar setup about to go on my Y8 and my power goal is 200-220 whp tuned, but I would hope for a higher tq.