Well see here's what the story is from the begining to now from the first start of my car.

I finish installing, go for the first start up. Car idles somehow funny and bogs really hard anything over 15% throttle.

so then i go to check wiring on map sensor cus that seemed like the probelm. I checked it out after finding the hondata.com how to (didnt have at the time of wiring) The wires were switched around and mixed up so i'm like, cool... now all i have to do is follow hondata.com how to and wire it up correctly.

well, i rewire and go to start the car. in the mean time i got the hondata remaped at ultimate just in case that was the probelm. I plug the hondata ecu in, turn the car to the on position, fuel pump does not turn on, as well as the light on the hondata does not light up. I'm stumped?

I recheck wiring on the map sensor. Because my map sensor doesnt look like the map sensor they use on the hondata.com how to, i was looking at it upside down. So i look at which wires needed to go where, and i saw that i switched the 12v wire with the ground wire :/ ...

So i rewire it the CORRECT way this time, go to start car up. Hondata light comes on, fuel pump primes. Started car. Now car idles like even more complete ***, got a CEL when the car was running, but ecu does not "flash" out a code when i jump it. and the car wont rev past 3k.

It runs like it's on two cylinders now. I wouldnt say compression probelm or anything internal because the car was running great n/a and compression was good before install.

what's my problem?
-- bad map sensor?
-- burnt out ecu?
-- fuxed injector wiring so burnt ecu?
-- bad hondata?
-- bad map?


I know it's something electrical... but i dont have right diagnostic computers to really get in there and tell what's going on.

any opinions are welcomes

my setup for reference:

---> hardware:
- garret t3/t4 50 trim. .48 a/r (200miles used)
- spoolinperformance mani/dp/dumptube (cloosed loop) 2.5" downpipe
- tial 38mm wastegate (10psi spring)
- spearco intercooler (used)
- tial 50mm bov
- 2.5" piping

---> fuel manegment:
- s100 hondata w/ boost (used and purchased from h-t)
- walbro 255hp fuel pump
- dsm blue top 440cc injectors (used and purchased from a friend)
- resistor box for injectors (same as above)
- gm 3bar map sensor (used and purchased from h-t)

--> misc:
- couplers from gscmotorsports
- oil lines (feed/drain)
- megan racing boost gauge (cheapo)
- boost gauge mount for streeing colum

picture for thread attention:





Modified by iGfrequency at 9:51 PM 4/4/2005

 

Your ecu is not READING the eprom chip, or you somehow fried the ecu.

 

you think that is throwing it into "limp" mode?

the eprom chip is the long black removable one correct?

 

yea, its the long black one..

reburn the chip and see if that helps... if that doesnt.. its probably the ecu

 

well, like i said. i had it maped, then had it re-maped in fear that THAT was the probelm..

didnt do much, so....

 

bump. Hope you get your problem figured out.

 

bump cus my life w/o car = teh lose

 

Check to make sure that you have the four wire pig tail plugged into the ECU board. Without the BLUE interface box, that is what HONDATA will do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SFWD 1934 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check to make sure that you have the four wire pig tail plugged into the ECU board. Without the BLUE interface box, that is what HONDATA will do. </TD></TR></TABLE>

not sure if you missed my "setup" section. i have s100 hondata, not s200. I think you may be talking about a wire for the s200 in that comment.

thnx for your help tho, it's appreciated

 

the hondata s100 light was NOT flashing, it was staying constant while the motor was running, if that is significant to solving this probelm.

 

i dont the answer to ur question but thats a nice setup
kinda the same thing im shootin for

when u get in on the rollers post it

 

when you put the chip into the 28pin socket, which way did you make it face? There is a little U on one of the ends of the chip. That U needs to face the ECU plugs. It definitely sounds ECU related though. I remember I fried an ECU one time and it did the same thing, gave a constant CEL when I tried to jump it, and wouldn't rev past like 4k or something.

 

no it's pointing the correct way.

i do agree it's ecu related tho

 

do you have your resistor box wired up correctly? red wire to injector wires, the 4 wires to the other end..

 

Do you have a factory ecu to throw in it to get the code,if you where not getting a code then I would say the ecu but I'm not sure if that pretaines to a hondata setup that 0 code could mean the ecu is bad.

 

soo did you find out why your ecu is going into limp mode??

 

nope not yet.

rewired resistors for the hell of it.. just to make sure it was good, it was good.

any other ideas?

 

bump cos
i told you it was the ecu to begin with

 

try pulling the plugs and see if any of them are foul or aint getting fuel.. take a picture

and take a picture of the resistor box wiring

 

Your ecu is throwing a solid cel when your SRS jumper is not jumped. Hence there is an issue with your ecu....

I posted this already but I guess you don't understand that your car won't run when it doesnt have an ecu that works properly.

 

btw, plugs are black as fawk, i assume running rich.


mtber: Sry, it's just that i got alot of different opinions, im just trying to make sure it's all good before i go do some drastic.

But, i think i will go ahead and buy another ecu for fuel manegemnt. Uberdata will be much cheaper for me in this situation.

If it's the ecu, what would be more likely the probelm.... the hondata chip, or the acutal ecu. Cus if it's just teh chip, i could reuse or sell the hondata s100

 

is it more likely the Hondata being fucked or the ecu itself.

a repetable Honda-tech member sold me this ecu already chipped with the hondata s100 (chipped by NGR-tech according to him).

Cause of Probelm:
1. chipped faulty causing it not to work
2. something i wired wrong caused ecu to burnup
3. it's not the ecu at all.