pr3 tunning help
I have a 91 crx with a b16a with a pr3 ecu with 8200 revlimit and 112 speed limiter. Im installing a set of ctr cams and cam gears. I was thinking about getting a my ecu chipped or getting a vafc or something. What would be the best option as far as tunning wise goes?
my mods are
AEBS intake manifold
65mm JG throttle body
HONDATA manifold gasket
OBX fuel rail
B&M FPR and guage
Password JDM CF intake
Comptech header
Custom Cat back exhaust
Full MSD ignition
and soon CTR cams and ITR valve train
and some adjustable cam gears
thanks
Matt
my mods are
AEBS intake manifold
65mm JG throttle body
HONDATA manifold gasket
OBX fuel rail
B&M FPR and guage
Password JDM CF intake
Comptech header
Custom Cat back exhaust
Full MSD ignition
and soon CTR cams and ITR valve train
and some adjustable cam gears
thanks
Matt
i have ctr cams in my b16 i have a chipped pr3 and a non chipped pr3 the chiped vtec is at 4600 it is way to low i would convert to obd1 and get hondata that is what i am doing it is so much better
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16bluef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have ctr cams in my b16 i have a chipped pr3 and a non chipped pr3 the chiped vtec is at 4600 it is way to low i would convert to obd1 and get hondata that is what i am doing it is so much better</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or you could use turboedit. http://www.turboedit.org/
Or you could use turboedit. http://www.turboedit.org/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mach69 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Or you could use turboedit. http://www.turboedit.org/</TD></TR></TABLE>
I second that. Hondata is good if you want someone to tune it for you. However, turboedit is cheap and you can tune it yourself without spending a lot of cash.
Or you could use turboedit. http://www.turboedit.org/</TD></TR></TABLE>
I second that. Hondata is good if you want someone to tune it for you. However, turboedit is cheap and you can tune it yourself without spending a lot of cash.
personally i would go with the obd1 setup.
alot more options and support for the newer computer.
not to mention wider selection on parts. those obdo distributors get kinda pricy.
alot more options and support for the newer computer.
not to mention wider selection on parts. those obdo distributors get kinda pricy.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">personally i would go with the obd1 setup.
alot more options and support for the newer computer.
not to mention wider selection on parts. those obdo distributors get kinda pricy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont think you realize, but you can use a d16a6 or obd0 b18a1 distributor on a b16a OBD0
alot more options and support for the newer computer.
not to mention wider selection on parts. those obdo distributors get kinda pricy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont think you realize, but you can use a d16a6 or obd0 b18a1 distributor on a b16a OBD0
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont think you realize, but you can use a d16a6 or obd0 b18a1 distributor on a b16a OBD0 </TD></TR></TABLE>
yah i didnt say you couldnt .
i dont think you realize, but you can use a d16a6 or obd0 b18a1 distributor on a b16a OBD0 </TD></TR></TABLE>
yah i didnt say you couldnt .
sure I will post a pic of the lines but my car is in teh paint shop right now and I am suppose to get it back tommorrow. I just pushed them down with my hand and then rapped rubber tubing around it so it would not rub a hole in it.
later
Matt
later
Matt
=D - > Buy your OBD1 package from http://www.rywire.com
JKOBD OBD0 to OBD1 Jumper harness for $110
OBD0 to OBD1 Distributor Jumper harness for $25
OBD1 Distributor for $235
4-Wire O2 sensor for $75
And!!! I'll have some OBD1 injectors in stock next week.
I'm looking to get $100 for the set, they're cleaned and flow tested!
JKOBD OBD0 to OBD1 Jumper harness for $110
OBD0 to OBD1 Distributor Jumper harness for $25
OBD1 Distributor for $235
4-Wire O2 sensor for $75
And!!! I'll have some OBD1 injectors in stock next week.
I'm looking to get $100 for the set, they're cleaned and flow tested!
The cheapest and easiest way to tune your computer is to get it chipped. Buy a chip from EBAY an get it installed at a VCR/TV repair shop, it'll increase your rev-limit and horsepower! A VAFC helps too!
I was thinking about sending my ecu to Hyperducktunning and getting it chipped there until I can afford a Zdyne. Is yours chipped b16a@9krpm how does it idle and run?
thanks for the help
Matt
thanks for the help
Matt
that mugen program doesn have a rev limit.
i have a spoon n1 chipped pr3 4500 vtec 8500 rev limit. And no 112mph governor.
one argument. i wish vtec was at 5000rpm
i have a spoon n1 chipped pr3 4500 vtec 8500 rev limit. And no 112mph governor.
one argument. i wish vtec was at 5000rpm
this is the one im looking at getting
Mugen N1 program
VTEC: 3800 or 4500 or 5200rpm
Rev limit: None or 9000rpm
Dyno/Tests: Throttle response improved, good all around program, runs rather rich but good gains. Good on a LS/VTEC and B20VTEC. Second 02, oil pressure and knock sensor disabled.
Mugen N1 program
VTEC: 3800 or 4500 or 5200rpm
Rev limit: None or 9000rpm
Dyno/Tests: Throttle response improved, good all around program, runs rather rich but good gains. Good on a LS/VTEC and B20VTEC. Second 02, oil pressure and knock sensor disabled.
yo man
turboedit isint pr3 compatible last i checked..
i tune pr3/pwo with BRE. i wish u were local i could give u a demo of what a PROPER chipped ecu feels like.
dont buy a chip that is pre programmed, its as bad as not doing anything at all.
just keep ur stock ecu and buy a vafc to adjust your fuel, u will be better off...
u got any Q's pmme
turboedit isint pr3 compatible last i checked..
i tune pr3/pwo with BRE. i wish u were local i could give u a demo of what a PROPER chipped ecu feels like.
dont buy a chip that is pre programmed, its as bad as not doing anything at all.
just keep ur stock ecu and buy a vafc to adjust your fuel, u will be better off...
u got any Q's pmme
BTW- i made 157whp with my tuning
1st gen b16 totally stock
dented JDM dc 4-1
AEBS manifold
ITR throttle body
2.5 crush bent exhaust
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1122672
1st gen b16 totally stock
dented JDM dc 4-1
AEBS manifold
ITR throttle body
2.5 crush bent exhaust
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1122672
Yeah but then you still have the stock rev limit which sucks(if motor is modified)! I once had a stock ECU with VAFC and it seemed good until I redlined. Trust me Insomniac, you're going to hate it when you're losing because you hit the rev limiter! Type R cams (which I already had) peak around 8,400 rpm and sound the best at around 8,500. People are going to ask you if you got a Type R! But it's really up to you and how much money you got. If money wasn't an issue then go with stand-alone fuel management(AEM/Apex'i), if you got in-between money then go with Hondata, other than that it's chip or not to chip! What do you think?
My mods are: P30 B16A, 11:1 compression, Skunk2 stage 2 cams, Skunk2 valve springs, Skunk2 cam gears, one-layer head gasket, JDM DC header w/2.5" collector, 2.5" cat-back, AEM fuel rail w/ B&M fuel press. reg., full MSD w/ rev limiter(9,000 rpm), PR3 ECU w/ Mugen chip, Spoon VTEC controller, cold air intake and a bunch of other "little" things.
Modified by b16a@9krpm at 3:06 PM 4/15/2005
My mods are: P30 B16A, 11:1 compression, Skunk2 stage 2 cams, Skunk2 valve springs, Skunk2 cam gears, one-layer head gasket, JDM DC header w/2.5" collector, 2.5" cat-back, AEM fuel rail w/ B&M fuel press. reg., full MSD w/ rev limiter(9,000 rpm), PR3 ECU w/ Mugen chip, Spoon VTEC controller, cold air intake and a bunch of other "little" things.
Modified by b16a@9krpm at 3:06 PM 4/15/2005



