okay, i'm not sure if i want to spin 7500 or 8000rpm. i've been debating a block girdle heavily, because of the fairly large pricetag. i'm already planning on ARP main studs and rod bolts. i'm leaning towards just that for bottom-end stability if i go for 7500, or that plus a factory b18c girdle if i go 8000rpm.this is for a daily driver, and in a couple years, it's gonna be my g/f's car; i'll still be taking care of it, but she's tough on cars, so this thing needs to be pretty bulletproof, which is why i'm leaning on 7500rpm. anyone wanna share their wisdom of experience please?

also, if anybody has a cheaper way to change the redline than get a custom-chipped ECU and have to dyno the heck out of it to keep it from running crappy, i'd appreciate it if you'd share.

 

talk to hyrid_vtec he spins to 8k on his ls

 

also, just found out, i could just get a rebuilt GS-R shorty for a bit under $1k. i know that would spin 8k, but if i could get the same reliability from my LS i'd be happier, i think. plus, it'd give me chance to overbore for 1880cc incl. in the cost.

 

i spin my ls to 8500. no block gridle. just upgrade your valvetrain and rods.

 

DANG!!!!!!, how long have you driven with that set-up? tegman were gonna have to compare time slips when we get done

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DANG!!!!!!, how long have you driven with that set-up? tegman were gonna have to compare time slips when we get done </TD></TR></TABLE>


been driving it like this since last spring. the weakest links when revving the ls motor that high are the rods and valve train. that's where the most stress lies. fix those and you should be okay.

 

ha u guys are crazy reving an LS past 7000 IMO....
Think about it, there realli is no reason to rev past 7k. because thats when an LS drops on its face....no power....hp 5500 tq at 3500...
to meah=pointless.....and saves money....especially on a stock LS....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Supahatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ha u guys are crazy reving an LS past 7000 IMO....
Think about it, there realli is no reason to rev past 7k. because thats when an LS drops on its face....no power....hp 5500 tq at 3500...
to meah=pointless.....and saves money....especially on a stock LS....</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok...were not talking about stock ls's

 

To spin to 8K safely, I recommend ARP 8mm rod bolt, shotpeening of your stock rods, and all new bearings. A girdle would not be a bad idea, but can get expensive. Also endyne makes a block posting kit so you can have extra support on your cylinder walls. There is a tech article on this on the http://www.homemadeturbo.com website.

I hope this helps out!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Supahatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ha u guys are crazy reving an LS past 7000 IMO....
Think about it, there realli is no reason to rev past 7k. because thats when an LS drops on its face....no power....hp 5500 tq at 3500...
to meah=pointless.....and saves money....especially on a stock LS....</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope. you're wrong. tq at 5200. it's a honda, remember? high torque peak.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shermanyang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">been driving it like this since last spring. the weakest links when revving the ls motor that high are the rods and valve train. that's where the most stress lies. fix those and you should be okay.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you don't think it's at all necessary to have a block girdle? huh. lots of people consider it necessary. have you ever checked the main bearings' wear patterns?

okay, so do you guys think that ARP main studs would be a less costly addition that would perform in the same function as a block girdle? i'm not dead set on a girdle, but i'd like some assurance that i won't be having crank bearings getting funny on me.

finally for today (actually it's tomorrow already, 12:18am here in FL), anybody have any experience with the Crane valvetrain? i'm running them with Crower 62404's and they've been fine, but i just want reassurance for 8000rpm. crane says they'll do 10grand with 0.500" lift, but i don't believe that for a minute. they're single springs, but they're stiffer and come with Ti retainers. BTW, 404's are ~250 duration, ~220 at 0.050", and 11.3mm in lift and 11.0mm ex lift, off the top of my head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Supahatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ha u guys are crazy reving an LS past 7000 IMO....
Think about it, there realli is no reason to rev past 7k. because thats when an LS drops on its face....no power....hp 5500 tq at 3500...
to meah=pointless.....and saves money....especially on a stock LS....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really, my power peaks at 7400 rpm. Hmmmmmm.............I guess the dyno lied to me! Tell that to nonvtecallmotor, his B20 makes power to 9400 rpms.

7K on a stock LS would be pointless considering it peaks at 6000-6300 rpms, but when builtit all depends on the setup!

 

my wtq may flatten out at around 5.5k~6k, but my whp still climbs all the way to 8k. it's all about flow.

and no a gridle is not required...you ask why, unless you rev your motor constantly to 8k+ what's the need? yes occasionally i do rev to 8.5, but not on a daily basis. if you're gonna be autoxing, dragging every weekend sure it would truely benefit. but as for me, my car is daily driven and i usually keep it under 4k if possible. gas is a bitch and going over 4k on a turbo car w/1008cc injectors means you gotta fill'er up more often.

 

ah, well, this is a daily driver, and i like to fling the car across the local twisties. as well as some full-throttle runs daily. i think i'm going to go with the rebuilt gs-r block for $975. then i'll be satisfied it'll keep at 8000 regularly. probably mill the head a little to bump compression while i'm at it.

so, anybody know anything about Crane valvetrain? i would assume any aftermarket valvetrain for ANY honda would do 8000 no problem. and who knows, maybe they're telling the truth and they can handle 10k? well, maybe not.

 

I hear Crane does well, but I do not trust the single spring setup. I use Crower, they have a dual spring setup!

These guys have the crower V/S for $185
http://www.inlinefour.com

 

that's $185 w/o the retainers. originally, i bought the crane b/c i wanted to run cams but the price is a lot better, and price is a big deal to me. if i can save $100, i will, unless it means a sacrifice in reliability. i knew the cranes would be fine for 7000rpm, and i still think they should be good to 8000 or 8500. nobody has any experience at all, so i still have no reason to doubt that they'll decent and moderate engine speeds.

now for a different idea. i know power peaks pretty high with these cams, even in a stock head. right now, my tq peak is 6100, stock head casting! that leads me to believe that 8000rpm is the way to go for me. head porting is not an option, other than minor deshrouding of the valves and slight reshaping of the intake ports, which i will do myself when the head comes off next. so, with that said, am i correct in assuming that continuing to 8000 will be faster than 7500? i'm on the fence but leaning moderately towards saving and shooting for 8000rpm.