Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

chained h22

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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 03:52 PM
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vermias11's Avatar
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From: Eugene, OR
Default chained h22

i have a huge problem with my engine shifting due to lots of hp. instead of buying really expensive, or making poly mounts (which from what i hear increase rattling in the car), i think i will put a chain from a head bolt on each side connecting it to the frame with little slack. so that when i get on the gas it can shift a little but will stay put, but when normal driving my **** wont rattle to pieces. has anyone had expierence doing this? will the shift (25 psi) be enough to snap the top of the head bolt off (eww)?
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 04:08 PM
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Default Re: chained h22 (vermias11)

a chain? I bet it will be noisy as hell rattling around in there.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 04:42 PM
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Default Re: chained h22 (vermias11)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vermias11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a huge problem with my engine shifting due to lots of hp. instead of buying really expensive, or making poly mounts (which from what i hear increase rattling in the car), i think i will put a chain from a head bolt on each side connecting it to the frame with little slack. so that when i get on the gas it can shift a little but will stay put, but when normal driving my **** wont rattle to pieces. has anyone had expierence doing this? will the shift (25 psi) be enough to snap the top of the head bolt off (eww)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMFAO, are you serious? dont be ghetto, that's like trying to weld something together but using gum instead
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 06:39 PM
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lol ya it is pretty ghetto, but its easier and it should work, ill make the chain tight enough so it isnt rattling... i was just wondering if anyone is ghetto as i am
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 07:12 PM
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http://ingallseng.com/parts/stiffy.htm

how about fabricating something like that up instead.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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-Bionic-'s Avatar
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Default Re: chained h22 (kniob)

How about rope, or duct tape?

That wouldn't make a rattling noise.

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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 08:51 PM
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From: Eugene, OR
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good idea with the rope, i could spray paint it silver and make it look so pimp

the chubby seems easy enough to fabricate, how important is it to have the engine shift some, vs having a bracket that would hold it still?

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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 04:27 AM
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Default Re: (vermias11)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vermias11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... how important is it to have the engine shift some, vs having a bracket that would hold it still?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're worried about rattling from poly mounts (first post)? If so, then a solid bracket of any kind would be WAY worse.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 12:00 PM
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sorry i wasnt clear, i was wondering how much does the engine need to shift, if at all. And what are the disadvantages of having it not be able to shift at all.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 04:32 PM
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Default Re: chained h22 (kniob)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kniob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a chain? I bet it will be noisy as hell rattling around in there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree.

you looking for side markers for accords, i have stock ones from 94-95 if you want to pick thoses up, holla bak if you are interested.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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well iw oudl first see if you can even make 25psi without blosing your **** through the hood THEN worry about the engine movement.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 07:48 PM
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From: Eugene, OR
Default Re: (v4lu3s)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v4lu3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well iw oudl first see if you can even make 25psi without blosing your **** through the hood THEN worry about the engine movement.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well thanks for the retarted comment, if you would have READ the thread you would see that i am having engine movement trouble NOW and I have not really turned up the boost.

im trying to get my car ready for dyno tuning, which it will be under alot more stress than it already is. since the chain idea is ghetto and most likley noisy, i will probably use 2 cables, one connecting on each side, and attaching it to the frame (they only have to be about 6 inches each). i bought the car modded from denver and drove it back to oregon, upon picking up the car it was at 20psi but we tuned it down for the long drive to 8, now its about 13. 25 is a stretch, but I think its possible, the engine is built and has really low compression, i dont know what it is though (im a noob). thanks for the ideas all
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 02:37 AM
  #13  
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for someone who thinks chains and cables are the solution to controlling engine movement, I dont think you should be calling anyone a retard
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 03:59 AM
  #14  
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Default Re: (vermias11)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vermias11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry i wasnt clear, i was wondering how much does the engine need to shift, if at all. And what are the disadvantages of having it not be able to shift at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>The whole reason for the movement is avoiding noise in the car. The stock engine mounts allow probably 1/2" to 1" during a violent launch. But normally the engine moves much less than that.

Look at each engine mount, knowing which direction it gets pushed. When you launch, the engine wants to 'lean backward' as the mounts take up the reaction forces. Try to figure out ways to reinforce each mount in that particular direction.

If you're at all worried about vibration in the cabin, you'll be better off working with the engine mounts rather than adding chains. Its like suspensions - stiffer springs & shocks are more harsh than stock, but they're way better than having no springs at all.
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