Front Left = (1) Front Right = (2)

Camber: 0.2 (1), -1.8 (2) ; Specified Range -1, 1
Caster: 0.9 (1), 3.0 (2); Specified Range 2, 4
Toe: 0.02 (1), -0.03 (2); Specified Range -0.12, 0.12

REAR:

Camber: -1.2 (left), -1.8 (right); Specified Range -1.4, 0.6
Toe: -0.13 (left), 0.16 (right); Specified Range 0.04, 0.16

Rear Total Toe -0.28
Thrust Angle (what the hell is dat yo) 0.02

So I will definatly be needing camber solutions for the front and rear, and how do I adjust Caster on the front? Is that a kit too? Which one is that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whole9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thrust Angle (what the hell is dat yo) 0.02
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing really to worry about with our cars.

lol get a good thrust angle in rear wheel drive cars and you can make the back end drice sideways but still straight, its called dog tracking.

THRUST ANGLE ALIGNMENT


Definition: Aligning front toe to the rear thrust angle instead of the vehicle's centerline to compensate for rear axle steer.

 

Coo Coo thx for the neat diagram

 

To get your caster evened out, you first need to replace the radius rod bushings (fairly cheap and easy to do). You should also make sure your other bushings are OK (esp lower control arms), but they can be a more expensive pain to deal with.

Once its on the rack, some techs will go as far as to loosen and pry the subframe over to get it centered correctly, or the front lower "K-member" that supports the radius rods.

I'd say all you need to do is try the radius bushings and a camber kit.

BTW, Autozone can order up the radius rod bushings for you from Energy Suspension for about $12. You'll need a deep 17mm socket to get the rods out.

Contact me if you decide to do this, and I can help with more info.