bad camber!!!
i am looking for a camber kit for my crx and i am wondering if anybody offers an adjustable upper control arm for the civic or the crx any info would be great!
I just picked up an adjustable rear UCA from Tire Rack. Its an Ingalls, and they have a decent price if you live outside one of thier shipping states (no sales tax).
Another quality UCA kit is made by SPC.
Those two brands are known to make quality products.
Another quality UCA kit is made by SPC.
Those two brands are known to make quality products.
Well, for the crx or ef civic, the only adjustable upper control arm is made by vision, and its grossly overpriced.
Instead, you have a couple of options.
The easiest fix are offset UCA anchor bolts. These replace the two outer bolts that stick up into your engine bay and hold the upper control arms. SPC makes one type that has offest bushing holes, and Ingalls makes a set that has sliding bushing holes. The Ingalls is also available at Tire-Rack.
The other type is the offset ball-joint replacement. These offer some more adjustment range, and some caster adjustment too, but you might have difficulty pressing the old ball joints out.
Instead, you have a couple of options.
The easiest fix are offset UCA anchor bolts. These replace the two outer bolts that stick up into your engine bay and hold the upper control arms. SPC makes one type that has offest bushing holes, and Ingalls makes a set that has sliding bushing holes. The Ingalls is also available at Tire-Rack.
The other type is the offset ball-joint replacement. These offer some more adjustment range, and some caster adjustment too, but you might have difficulty pressing the old ball joints out.
I have the uca anchor bolts right now and it set my uca out to far and i hit the inner fender. I have the ones that adjust 3.75 deg. it pushes the upper control arm out too far.
i am a mechanic for a living so i installed the kit and work and tried to align it but when i put the car down after installing the anchor bolts it hit the inner fender. so ididn't even mess with it just set the toe and drove it home. now looking for a better option.
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I've read the ball joints will have the same problem. What's the condition of your front radius rod bushings? I ask because if they're blown you might toe in some on a launch with raidals. The lower control arm bushings can allow for some play too, but I figure by the time you are using drag radials, you've probably updated most of the other stuff, right?
I've also heard of people "notching" that part of the chassis where the control arm makes contact. I dont know specifically how that's done, but it cold help.
I wonder if you could use washers to add some space and lower the UCA down?
I've also heard of people "notching" that part of the chassis where the control arm makes contact. I dont know specifically how that's done, but it cold help.
I wonder if you could use washers to add some space and lower the UCA down?
Oh wait, the Vision arms (sold at http://www.jhpusa.com/ ) are for adding negative camber only.
Raising the ride hieght or notching the chassis might be the best option.
Raising the ride hieght or notching the chassis might be the best option.
i spin tires through 3rd gear on the street. neagtive camber is killing me. I checked everything on the aligment rack at work and toe is good but camber is 2.75 on the left and 2.5 on the right. bfg drag radials also dont wear as good as your average all season radials. there not a long life tire. 00 rating on wear.
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