arp moly paste....
ok dumb question, but im illiterate right now so....
i have a small ARP moly based assembly lube packet here, to "precisely duplicate all preload spec blah blah"
my question....wtf is it? i mean it says lubricant, but at the same time its supposed to be used on the eagle rod bolts it came with...
can i use this on head studs? or just go with blue loctite?
part#100-9902
i have a small ARP moly based assembly lube packet here, to "precisely duplicate all preload spec blah blah"
my question....wtf is it? i mean it says lubricant, but at the same time its supposed to be used on the eagle rod bolts it came with...
can i use this on head studs? or just go with blue loctite?
part#100-9902
DO NOT LOCTITE BOLTS INSIDE THE MOTOR. If the torque of the bolt doesn't hold it in place, you're using the wrong torque spec.
The purpose of the lube is as it states, to make sure you're getting the most accurate torque measurement, by making sure you're not using all the torque to grind dry threads together. Use it on everything in the motor, all threads must be lubricated to get the proper torque reading. That means head studs and nuts, rod bolts, etc.
The purpose of the lube is as it states, to make sure you're getting the most accurate torque measurement, by making sure you're not using all the torque to grind dry threads together. Use it on everything in the motor, all threads must be lubricated to get the proper torque reading. That means head studs and nuts, rod bolts, etc.
thats what i did before with motor oil, torqued everything to spec to a T...and it leaked all over the place.
besides, blue loctite is ok to use, red is if you want the studs permanent (which is what i used), simply because i dont want them to spin out again...like they did when installed with 30w nd oil.
im gonna go ahead and loc-tite the nuts too. its not like its gonna warp at 10 ft lbs over [85ish].
besides, blue loctite is ok to use, red is if you want the studs permanent (which is what i used), simply because i dont want them to spin out again...like they did when installed with 30w nd oil.
im gonna go ahead and loc-tite the nuts too. its not like its gonna warp at 10 ft lbs over [85ish].
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welding them would be even stronger than that
If you ever plan on taking the head off, Your going to be screwed big time...And you might just pull them out of the block. Isnt that what your trying to prevent in the first place?
And please torque the nuts to the correct torque.You will stretch them too much and something will break...

If you ever plan on taking the head off, Your going to be screwed big time...And you might just pull them out of the block. Isnt that what your trying to prevent in the first place?
And please torque the nuts to the correct torque.You will stretch them too much and something will break...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">welding them would be even stronger than that
If you ever plan on taking the head off, Your going to be screwed big time...And you might just pull them out of the block. Isnt that what your trying to prevent in the first place?
And please torque the nuts to the correct torque.You will stretch them too much and something will break...</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not going to loc tite the nuts...just the studs....
and people have already claimed to have tq'ed at 83 and had no problems, so im going to take that route. the last thing i want is for another leak to occur. id rather have the head be MELTED onto the block, than have a leak.

If you ever plan on taking the head off, Your going to be screwed big time...And you might just pull them out of the block. Isnt that what your trying to prevent in the first place?
And please torque the nuts to the correct torque.You will stretch them too much and something will break...</TD></TR></TABLE>
im not going to loc tite the nuts...just the studs....
and people have already claimed to have tq'ed at 83 and had no problems, so im going to take that route. the last thing i want is for another leak to occur. id rather have the head be MELTED onto the block, than have a leak.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soLSvtec12kcraze »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> id rather have the head be MELTED onto the block, than have a leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good luck with that
Good luck with that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good luck with that
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks bro, i hope you mean that....
i mean when i think about it, they have the specs made for the motor set up, but dont have any references about the specs of the motor that they are applied to....
the motor is 12.5:1, its not outrageous, but its not OEM either....i think that some of the tq settings provided with the products are vague...itd be a lot more helpful if they would provide the info on the install sheet that the product was tested on, to provide a better understanding to the consumer.
Good luck with that
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks bro, i hope you mean that....

i mean when i think about it, they have the specs made for the motor set up, but dont have any references about the specs of the motor that they are applied to....
the motor is 12.5:1, its not outrageous, but its not OEM either....i think that some of the tq settings provided with the products are vague...itd be a lot more helpful if they would provide the info on the install sheet that the product was tested on, to provide a better understanding to the consumer.
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the.hamburglar
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