Pressing out rear LCA bushigns (ITR/88 CRX)
I'm trying to install Prothane poly bushings in my ITR rear LCAs.
I know they need to be pressed out in a certain direction, I know I am going the right way.... but the arm completely caves in way before the bushing comes loose. I've tried putting a spacer inside to prevent the arm from deforming too much, but it will still bend at the bottom surface im pressing against.
I've already fucked up one arm... how do you do this?
I know they need to be pressed out in a certain direction, I know I am going the right way.... but the arm completely caves in way before the bushing comes loose. I've tried putting a spacer inside to prevent the arm from deforming too much, but it will still bend at the bottom surface im pressing against.
I've already fucked up one arm... how do you do this?
Can you take a picture? It doesn't sound like you are supporting the other side of the control arm correctly. If you started bending the control arm already I would really consider not using that control arm. Pressing bushings in and out of stamped arms, like control arms, compensator arms, etc. can really weaken the arm.
On my DA I pressed out the stock bushings and inserted poly ones into the compensator arms (arms that connect the front of the trailing arm to the frame, you adjust these to change the toe). Well about 6 months afterwards one of the arms cracked around the bushing. I had to then replace it. Then about a year later the other other one cracked. I properly supported the arms when pressing out the old bushings too, they showed no signs of fatigue or stress.
So at least from my experience, I would not suggest messing with those bushings. The poly ones in the control arms are much stiffer than stock and they really make your ride harsh (I had them in my DA and I took them out). I didn't have to worry about cracking the DA LCAs because they are cast. If your bushings are old then just pick up some brand new LCAs with bushings from Honda for $44/piece, that's what I did when I converted my GSR to full ITR suspension.
Good luck
On my DA I pressed out the stock bushings and inserted poly ones into the compensator arms (arms that connect the front of the trailing arm to the frame, you adjust these to change the toe). Well about 6 months afterwards one of the arms cracked around the bushing. I had to then replace it. Then about a year later the other other one cracked. I properly supported the arms when pressing out the old bushings too, they showed no signs of fatigue or stress.
So at least from my experience, I would not suggest messing with those bushings. The poly ones in the control arms are much stiffer than stock and they really make your ride harsh (I had them in my DA and I took them out). I didn't have to worry about cracking the DA LCAs because they are cast. If your bushings are old then just pick up some brand new LCAs with bushings from Honda for $44/piece, that's what I did when I converted my GSR to full ITR suspension.
Good luck
Has anyone successfully done this? I'm pressing with a socket slightly smaller then the diameter of the sleeve and supporting the bottom with a radius about the same as the end of the arm. I could try a smaller supporting socket but the stock bushing sleeves are so tight I dont think it will a difference. It's like the smaller diameter is binding and the larger end is not, so the top half (inside when on car) is beding and staying with the sleeve as its being pressed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, dont press it out. Use a torch and burn that **** out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
True, what I did when I did my LCAs was just push out the metal center of the bushing and it will tear the rubber. Then I used a sawzall to cut the outer metal part just enough so that it collapsed. Then I could easily tap it out.
True, what I did when I did my LCAs was just push out the metal center of the bushing and it will tear the rubber. Then I used a sawzall to cut the outer metal part just enough so that it collapsed. Then I could easily tap it out.
same here i burned them out and then used a dremel to releive the bushing shell almost all the way through and then beat then out rather easily. you could put it in an oven after burniing the rubber out and then cool the sleeve and it will almost fall out.
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