i just purchased a used 02" RSX-Type S with 70k on it.
heres my issue when i drive and switch gears
the rpm seems to slightly drop
and the car would not shift smoothly if you know what i mean
when i switch gears rpm slightly drop and i have to get the gas quick and the car would jump and pull.

am i making sense?

well anyways, thats my problem, can you guys help me out? i have warranty on the car. you think the clutch is going on it? or is it just my driving? i drive my gf's car and she has the exact same one and it doesnt pull when i switch gears on it.

i usually change gears around 2.5 or 3 rpm.

please help advise. thx.

 

if the clutch is going (slipping), after you shift and let off the clutch, then you add to the throttle, the rpms will rise and the car won't really accelerate well.

 

Hmmm... thats a very interesting situation.. if you still have warranty take the care in and have them take a look. I was going to suggest what the last dude said but if you can drive your gf's car and you shifting the same way then the problem would have to be with the clutch. Sorry thats all i can put in this one.

 

the type-s likes it better at around 3.5 or 4 grand when shifting, try that. The car could be bogging down because of the low rpms.

 

no its not the clutch...

I forget exactly what the part is called but the same thing happened to me.

My friend snap the plastic nipple taking off the vacuum hose coming from the intake to the little platic cylinder near the TB. It has a nipple going up for the IM and one out the side for vacuum for the intake. This is used as some sort of sensor and the rpms are affected if it is shot.

I teed the intake vacuum hose into the one on top until Acura got me a new assembly (and no I couldn't just get the little 2" plastic cylinder, it cost me like $78 but thats cause the guy hooked me up.

The simptoms were in between shifts the rpms drop extremely quickly, making quick shifts a must or a form of double-clutching. Whenever I would brake in neutral coming to a stop the rpms rose to about 2000-2500 and held steady for about 10 seconds, where they would finally drop to idle. Also when crusing in gear, I'd take my foot off the gas the rpms would falll so quickly the car would feel like I gave the brakes a firm and quick jolt. And finally the car would hesitate and the shake when applying about 10-30% WOT. Oh, and this only occured when the CEL was on, which would come on about 10-15 minutes after I started the car and go away whenever the car was turned off.

Since I replaced the part, which involved draining the coolant and removale of a bunch of vacuum and coolant hoses, the car has run normal and there is no evidence of damage to anything.