I have a 90 crx with jdm b16a 1st gen. It started before I dropped my tranny but now it wont. It turnsover, I have fuel. No spark. I know code 15 is ignition output signal is messed up but how do I fix?

I forgot to ask...what wire goes to the ecu that controls the ignition output signal like pinout a10 for example.


Modified by jonathancrx at 11:36 PM 3/15/2005

 

Make sure you didn't accidentally unplug the distributor. The ignition output usually = ignitor. Fairly common on these cars, perhaps by freak chance it died now.

 

sounds like your coil is out.had the same problem

 

ok I know that I need to check ignitor, coil, and wiring cause I messed with ecu and I was thinking maybe wire or something came loose considering the previous owner did swap himself.

1. How much does a ignitor cost?
2. where is a coil in the distributor and how much is it?
3. Where is the wire that goes to the ecu that lets say if you cut it off it would throw a code 15...like pinout lacation

 

1. around $80
2. around $70
3. Simply cutting the wire would be a big mistake.
Helms Manual Fuel and Emissions>PGM-FI Control System > Troubleshooting>Ignition Output Here's a link: http://www.carenthusiast.com/c...t.pdf

You can get a new, complete distributor for around $150 if you choose on ebay

 

what is the pgm-fi test harness. On the flow chart to test code 15 I did everything and worked my way down to this:

<FONT COLOR="Plum">connect the pgm-fi test harness between the ecu and connector,</FONT> turn the ignition switch on, Mesure voltage individually between b15+ b17+ and a18-. Is there at least 10 volts? If NO replace ignitor unit, repair open or short in wht wires between distributor and ecu (b15 b17). If yes test with a known good ecu.

So wheres that harness and where are those wires in the distributor? Oh and is it one or the other or is there really 2 wht wires?

 

Looks like from the last wiring diagram of the manual (page 358 of 361)that B15 splices into B17...might want to strip the loom back on your harness to expose the wires to confirm. NOT the insulation of the wires but the black tubing that all the wires run through.

To see if you have a break in the white wire check it for continuity...1 probe on the end of the wire at the distributor, the other probe on the other end...B17 and/or B15, if they are spliced I dont think it matters which.

To check your ignitor use the manual... Electrical&gt;Ignition System&gt;Igniter Unit Input Test.

You have to buy/make a test harness, I've never used one, I test the components that the harness would reveal that needed to be repaired. In this case... "Is there Approx. 10V ---&gt; No---&gt; "Replace Igniter unit" (I'll check the igniter using the manual), "Repair Open/short..." (I'll check the wire).

 

thanx yo ill give it a try its either one or the other. hopefully its the wire...cheaper to fix.