My 1997 Accord is starting to look almost 8 years old on the paint job. I've heard that wet sanding helps to get rid of the surface scratches and dullness and then you can use some colored application, buff it off and it helps out. Has anyone done this, and what really is involved in the job? Tools, products, sandpaper?

 

I'm repainting my entire car. Wet sanding is a must for someone who is using poof cans.

My car is a 94 and I'm not going to pay 1600 for a good paint job. I'll do it my self and learn in the process. So please... no one give me any crap.

Now as for your question. Instead of wetsanding, you may want to try rubbing compound instead. Go to wal-mart and buy some turtle wax rubbing compound (reddish container) and then for a really good buff, also pick up some turtle wax polishing compound (white container). Read the directions and follow the directions. Use the red **** first, then the white. When you're all done, use some meguiar's (spelling?) wax and call it good. Rubbing compound may take a little longer than wet sanding, but it pays off in the end.

Still going for wetsanding? This is what I do.

Rough/bad spots - Use 800 grit and get rid of the spot. Now dip it in water and hit it back up with 800. Now use 1000, then 1500, then 2000. Follow up with the rubbing compound and polishing compound, wax and you're done. This takes a long time. Very long depending on how large of an area you're trying to cover.

Really really bad spots? Try 400 first and then go on.

Tools would be a bucket or hose. Wet or dry sanding paper. Rags to clean up and dry off your spot to see if it is ok to move onto the next step. Sorry man, I'm tired. If you want to know more then PM me. I'll be back on Friday.

 

You can't wetsand the stock paint. It is usually a very thin coat. I am in autobody class at a local tech school. I have painted my Accord as well as my brothers Civic and a few other cars around here. I usually won't wet sand them unless there is trash or orange peel in it.

I wouldn't pick up the compound from Wal-mart. Go to Pep boys or the local auto paint store and pick up the 3M Fine cut compound or if it is really bad the medium or heavy cut. You might want to get the Black Magic paste wax (in the tube) from Wal-Mart. That works really good.

If you have access to a high speed buffer this will help out alot. I bought mine from Harbor freight for around $40.00.Goodluck

 

I wouldn't wet sand factory clear coat unless you plan on repainting the car.

 

I agree about not wetsanding the factory paint - don't do it.

obsidian has the technique right though. just one tip, pick up a empty spray bottle to fill with water. you cna just spray the surface as you go along. makes life a lot easier.

 

But then you have to clean the clearcoat that you sanded off. Just take a water hose and let it keep going. As you sand you get your sandpaper cleaned, the old clear coat cleaned off, and a constant supply of clean water to sand on. That's my theory anyway.

 

Check http://www.autopia-carcare.com for the how-to's and get yourself a Porter-Cable 7336 Random Orbital Polisher from Lowes.

You can resurrect oxidized paintjobs to like-new using the methods described.

Wet sanding is very dangerous & will do far-FAR more damage than good.

Both my 11 and 10 year old cars look new. The paint on my m3 looks like 2004, the paint on my accord looks like 2001-ish (more sun exposure).

 

Wet sanding isn't for beginners and you would have to be a super hero to buff a whole vehicle by hand. Get a professional opinion at your local detailing shop. It will be less hassle in the end and you'll be pleased with the results. Caring for your car's finish can be more intensive then general maintance. If your not up to it get a full detail and you should be able to maintain it fairly easy by yourself.