I'm getting ready to do some Tig welding on the unibody structure and floor pan of my CRX. What filler rod and size do you guys recommend using?


Sorry it's been a long day. I meant to type filler rod, not electrode.


Modified by SiRex91 at 8:27 PM 3/15/2005


Modified by SiRex91 at 8:29 PM 3/15/2005

 

Electrode size couldnt mean less in my opinion. Its more of the amperage you use. Generally i use 60amps max for 16 gauge parts... but i rarely peak out.

I always have a 3/32" electrode in... since thats what size it orginally came with.

 

what are you trying to weld some sheet metal together. or weld something structurally.

 

I'm stitch welding the car.


Sorry guys, I meant filler rod, not electrode

 

filler size donsnt matter much either .. ist wiether u whant to dam a little (bigger )or feed
and dab more (smaller) .. id use 3/32 for both tungs and filler .. and also use a stainless filler rod so it dont rust .. even if u paint it .. sheet metal is tricky **** .. i had alot of problems with 22.g .. but engine bay i think is thicker ..

 

.040 will do for both filler and electrode for the sheet metal imo... i generally use 1/16 for most stuff i weld... the occasional 1/8, .40 and .20 stuff... depends on what im welding... for stitch welding the chassis i would reccomend mig'ing it... it would just make it that much easier

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek9t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.040 will do for both filler and electrode for the sheet metal imo... i generally use 1/16 for most stuff i weld... the occasional 1/8, .40 and .20 stuff... depends on what im welding... for stitch welding the chassis i would reccomend mig'ing it... it would just make it that much easier</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks for the help. I would've like to use mig, but I don't want to trailer my car across to town to use my friend's mig. So I guess it's a lot of hours with the tig torch.

 

if ur going to do the whole chassis... personally... forget trailoring it... id push the car across town to get to a mig... its THAT much easier

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek9t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if ur going to do the whole chassis... personally... forget trailoring it... id push the car across town to get to a mig... its THAT much easier</TD></TR></TABLE>i seam weld alot! i tig everything, swear by it. no b/s mig welded cages, blah'blah'blah (me talkin ****). but, to tig weld your seams, no way. that is about the only mig welding i do. dont listen to anybody if they tell you not to mig em or tig is better. b/s, we build "race cars". if you have any problems or questions please feel free to pm me. if you need pics, i can do that too. we are getting ready to put an ef on the rotissorie pretty soon and i wouldnt mind sharing some pics with you guys...

 

God I couldn't imagine TIGing the entire chassis...talk about alot of hours.

 

wow I think i would go insane if i had to tig an entire chassis. mig

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silly4lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow I think i would go insane if i had to tig an entire chassis. mig </TD></TR></TABLE>yea! i tried it once and got finished with the engine comp. and said screw this, got the squirt gun and went for it. you should be able to seam weld a chassis in about 6-7 hours, under, over, inside and out. tig will take 2-3 times that.

 

Mig it.

Side note - Filler rod and tungsten size are important in some instances.

Using a larger filler rod on thinner metals helps cool the weld making it easier to control warpage.

A larger tungsten must be used when welding with higher amperages (duh).

A smaller tungsten produces a smaller puddle.

There are many more reasons why <U>size does matter</U>.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">God I couldn't imagine TIGing the entire chassis...talk about alot of hours.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm... maybe we'll have to lift the mig and bring it over to the shop. If I can't get a hold of a mig this weekend, it can't take that much time welding with 3 man shifts on the tig. Maybe 2-3 full days and a few cases of beer.

 

You will also go through 2-3 times the gas if you tig it compared to mig. Not sure if money or gas is a concern of you guys but here it is.

+1 for mig on this project

 

Most people will find tig on this thin material to be harder than mig. Personally, I'd tig it, but I'm a little better and faster at it than the average joe... but if I had problems with paint in the seams giving me fits as I welded, I'd have no issues with swapping to mig. I'd stay away from flux core just because painting over flux core may cause it to crack off unless you get ALL the flux off the weld prior to welding. As for strength, it won't make any difference.

 

Jesus, seam welding with TIG would be tedious... altho I'd think it would be with MIG also.

I wouldn't even touch flux-core, I hope we dont have to get into this.

Rich