I did a search and I found some topics on it, but not exactly what I was looking for. I just did a B16 swap, and my car is throwing an ELD (Electrical Load Detector) code. I was told that this could be causing the battery to die after the car is off. Does anyone know if this is true? My car will start up, run fine, and even restart right away, but if the car sits for more than ten minutes, the battery will completely die again. Does anyone know what could be causing this, and how I can fix it?

 

My car didn't throw a CEL but I had the same problem you had when I first got my car back like in 2001, the car had the original Acura battery and the car is a 1995 GSR. Bought a new battery and its never had any problems again. Car batteries don't last forever, they typically go about after 5 years. Vibrations also aren't good for them, so if the car is slammed or something it might not like it. How old is your battery?

 

somthing to with wire...anything connect right?? and battery charger thingy...i guess it mean something is still getting voltage even car is OFF..hmm

 

I had the same problem on another vehicle it turned out to be 2 things. The source of the problem was the alternator. It wasn't giving the battery a charge, but it was doing enough to keep the car running. I had to replace the alternator and the battery because of all the recharging then draining of the battery. Have autozone or a local shop check the alt.

 

For the battery dying, I'd look for something that doesn't turn off when it should. Like the glovebox or trunk lights? Stereo amp that stays on? Alarm messed up?

Or it may simply be that your battery is old & it can't hold a charge any more?

The ELD measures electrical load when the car's running, so the ECU can anticipate what it needs to do do for a steady idle. If that's broke, I don't think it would drain your battery when the car's shut off.

 

change the battery get a volt meter and check the alternator make sure it is putting out at least 14 volts if its 12 or less it is bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98lsskunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">change the battery get a volt meter and check the alternator make sure it is putting out at least 14 volts if its 12 or less it is bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But also test the output of the alternator while the car is running (just connect the multimeter to the battery terminals) and turn on a bunch of accessories (ie. lights, windshield wipers, heater/fan and rear defroster) at the same time. Ideal alternator output is 14.4 volts DC. If it is a lot less (into the low 13s or high 12s) then the alternator may be bad.

 

I don't know what is up with it, it seems like the alternator would be ok, since the car will start again a little bit after it is turned off. The problem comes when the car sits for more than 10 minutes. If the car sits any longer, than the battery dies completely. I don't know what is causing the paracitic drain on it. Could it be my boost or air/fuel gauges, or even my turbo timer that is causing the drain, because it was not doing this before my swap and the add ons?

 

Got a multi-meter? You aren't gonna be able to tell anything without one. And since we aren't there firsthand, we can only suggest things for YOU to test.

1 - With the engine running, measure battery voltage. It should be above 13v, probably 14v or so.

2 - With the engine still running, turn on everything you can find. Headlights, blowers, defoggers, stereo, whatever. It should still be pretty much the same.

3 - Turn off the engine, measure battery voltage.

4 - Turn on the headlights for 1/2 minute or so then turn off. Measure battery voltage.

5 - Disconnect negative battery cable. Wait 2 or 3 hours. Measure battery voltage.

Post back with these measurements. At least 1 thru 4, then come back with 5.

The hardest ones to figure out are when the person posts back with a vague statement that almost sorta relates a little bit to the general topic. Then 15 posts later we discover he doesn't own a multimeter...

 

you might be having a pcm problem (probably a short to ground somewhere) that is causing one or more of your circuts to stay on an open loop. I think i read that someone had said to check for all lights that may be on after your key is out of the ignition...this is true. But also check voltage from your alarm system if you have an aftermarket alarm, ect ect..

more things to check for are
-tension on your alternator drive belt
-battery electrolite level low
-corroded terminals
-alternator voltage regulator could be bad

9 times out of ten, it's just a short in wiring

 

I went through the motor, and checked all the grounds (some of them were not grounded very well so I had to reground them. I also bought a new battery just to be safe, and after doing both of these my problem went away. Thanks for the advice guys.

 

If you have an ammeter, when your car is off, measure the current draw. Shouldnt be any. If there is, you know something is still sucking juice.