I'm Looking For Some Advice On Welding SCH 10 304 And 316 Stainless Pipe.
First I'll Start By Letting You Know I'm Useing A Miller Synchrowave 180 SD Tig Welder. I'm Useing 3/32 2% Thoriated Tungsten. And 1/2-16 308/308L Filler.
I've Been Trying Different Things And I Can Get A Fairly Nice Bead On The Outside But I'm Also Getting The BS On The Inside Of The Pipe.
I Believe This Can Be Resolved With Back Purging. Therefor I Have A Set Up To Do So But I'm Not Sure If That Is Correct Either. It Consits Of A End Cap And Another Pipe With The Gas Line Running To It. Off My Reg Is A Y With To Valves 1 To The Welder And 1 To The Back Purge Setup.
Also I Seem To Be Running Into The Problem Of Not Being Able To Lay A Wide Enough Bead Without Getting The Metal To Hot, I Think This May Be Due To Size Of The Filler. Here Is A Pic Of My Welds Tell Me What You Think. There Is Also A Link With A Bunch Of Pics So Go Through The Pages.

http://www.boostworthy.com/slo...art=0

 

Sounds like you have everything set up right, and using the right stuff. Keep in mind that using a splitter like this, you need to make sure you run the flowmeter high enough to run purge and your torch.

I notice there's a bit of trash on your beads. This is contamination. It's probably caused by one of 2 things:

1) You're getting some oxidation sucked up on the outside of the weld, from the inside...due to not purging the inside.

2) You're dabbing wire, and when you pull the wire out of the puddle, you're pulling it out beyond the shield or argon...letting it sugar up. Then when you dab it back in the puddle, you're putting all that trash into it. This can also make the puddle try to wander, as the electricity is trying to find the path of least resistance...which is around the oxidation ("sugar").

Aside from that, it's looking pretty good. Practice will help you improve..but remember to keep the brain turned on... remember what works, what doesn't, what more heat does, what less heat does. Don't get all hung up on amperage settings. Just think of hotter and colder.

 

Hey Buddy,

I know your s/n from SlowMo....

SiAdam on there forum......

Anyway...good work, I will be up soon for some tuning...

 

Thanks For The Help All The Pics Were Befor I Started To Use Back Purgeing. And The Manifold That I Made I Tacked And Retacked With The Mig It Was Just A Prototype. And Yeah I Noticed That I Do Pull The Filler Out To Far. I Will Post Some Pics Of My Welds With Back Purging Tomorrow. The Inside Looks Good Now But I'm Getting Under Cut And The Outer Weld Looks Dirty And Burnt. I Cleand The Pipe To The Best I Could (I Think) SS Wire Brush. What Do You Think About My Tungsten And Filler Size In Regards To What I'm Welding.
Thanks

Kyle

 

here are some pics of different pieces...













Backpurging Examples:







Thanks for any welding advice!

Corey

 

Well, you got full pen. You may want to work on hat control a bit though. It looks like you're getting pretty hot at times and the puddle gets a bit unstable and wants to wander. Why are you stopping about every inch?

Also, when you stop, ease up on the pedal slowly and you won't get that hole at the crater. This hole can actually leak sometimes, and will at least be a good place for a crack to start.

Try leaving the wire in the puddle and just weaving across it, rather than dabbing wire. It really works better on stainless for most situations.

 

I'll Try That. The Problem That I Am Running Into When I'm Welding This Pipe Is That I'm Finding It Hard To Keep Myself Comfortable Getting All The Way Around The Pipe. I Am Able To Get About 1/4 Around The Pipe Then I Have To Stop To Reposition. Do You Have Any Suggestion On Angle To Hold The Pipe Or How To Position My Self Inorder To Get More Weld Done Before Having To Stop?

BTW Engloid I Appreciate Your Help It Is Slowly Making A Difference.

Kyle

 

Doing 1/4 of the pipe at a time is fine. Don't worry much about it. In time you may get where you can do about 1/3, but it's not a big deal.

When you stop, taper off heat slowly and then hold your torch there for a few seconds so that the argon will shield the weld as it cools just a bit. About 8-10 seconds is fine. Then reposition and start over. When you restart, don't try to make a new "ripple" in the weld immediately. Remelt the entire crater from where you stopped, then move forward again.

 

you sure have a funny way of typing.
As for welding only 1/4 of the pipe at a time, that's it's perfecetly natural for beginners, don't sweat too much over it.

 

very good tip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2) You're dabbing wire, and when you pull the wire out of the puddle, you're pulling it out beyond the shield or argon...letting it sugar up. Then when you dab it back in the puddle, you're putting all that trash into it. This can also make the puddle try to wander, as the electricity is trying to find the path of least resistance...which is around the oxidation ("sugar").
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd never even thought of that

*noted

 

wow... anyone notice every word starts with a capital letter...looks pretty crazy.. thought i was seeing things.... welds look good btw