Obd2 to Obd1 conversion... one specific question
Hi all, posting for a friend. Did some search but can't seem to find a clear answer so hoping that someone who has done this can provide some insight.
Have an OBD2 engine (H22A4) with an OBD1 ECU (P72 via conversion harness). Do I NEED to have an OBD1 distributor too? The OBD1 ECU has been chipped via a Techtom program for this particular H22.
Reason is we're seeing some weird timing issues. Ignition is at 10 degrees at idle.
Engine is 11:0 compression.
Jun Cams, springs and retainers
Port & polished head
3 angle valve job
All bolt ons
Only produced 170whp on the dyno.
We think the timing has something to do with it. Can the chipped ECU control timing on the OBD2 distributor or do we NEED to install an OBD1 distributor to get the base timing correct first?
Thanks.
Have an OBD2 engine (H22A4) with an OBD1 ECU (P72 via conversion harness). Do I NEED to have an OBD1 distributor too? The OBD1 ECU has been chipped via a Techtom program for this particular H22.
Reason is we're seeing some weird timing issues. Ignition is at 10 degrees at idle.
Engine is 11:0 compression.
Jun Cams, springs and retainers
Port & polished head
3 angle valve job
All bolt ons
Only produced 170whp on the dyno.
We think the timing has something to do with it. Can the chipped ECU control timing on the OBD2 distributor or do we NEED to install an OBD1 distributor to get the base timing correct first?
Thanks.
Well here's the kicker though. That chipped was custom tuned and burnt for this engine and setup.. just a few days ago. Unfortunately, the dyno wasn't fully setup so there was no chart capabilities. My friend noticed it was smoother but nothing drastic. He was curious about the low numbers (highest number displayed.. no chart) so when he got home, he checked his base timing and it said it was 10 degrees.
So does that mean the dyno tuner is farked or what? There should be nothing else mechanical that needs to be done on the motor right?
So does that mean the dyno tuner is farked or what? There should be nothing else mechanical that needs to be done on the motor right?
whatever program you used to tune it with should control your ignition timing. if its not doing that (doesnt seem to be, or is set wrong) then it needs to get changed. go to a fully setup dyno and retune it. get a tuner that knows what he is doing as well.
with my jun head and boltons and what not, stock USDM compression, stock timing, i baselined at 190, and thats with the damn code 9 CEL. You got some tuner,dyno, and chipping problems. Are you running hondata ? or just a GSR ECU with like a mugen chip or some ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Are you running hondata ? or just a GSR ECU with like a mugen chip or some ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Right now, he's running an OBD1 P72 that is chippable. The tuner said it's the same as a HOndata just minus the Hondata perks (launch control, datalogging, etc). So for all intensive purposes, he is running a Hondata since the entire ECU is remapped for his setup.
Diamn... ok, I'll pass the word along that his car is fine and that we should go smack the dyno operator a little.
We were hoping for 200whp with his setup too.
Right now, he's running an OBD1 P72 that is chippable. The tuner said it's the same as a HOndata just minus the Hondata perks (launch control, datalogging, etc). So for all intensive purposes, he is running a Hondata since the entire ECU is remapped for his setup.
Diamn... ok, I'll pass the word along that his car is fine and that we should go smack the dyno operator a little.
We were hoping for 200whp with his setup too.
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Adam West
Hybrid / Engine Swaps
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May 8, 2006 03:47 AM




