since my build is near its completion
i need to think about getting it tuned...
but i got some problems, i want my car
tuned by either bubba or churchs...
the thing is... in order to do that... i would
have to load my car on a trailer and drive
3.5 hours to so cal... which is something
im probably going to have to do... anyways

do you guys think its possbile to drive my
car tuned to run below 4500 rpm w/ the air/fuel
tuned to 14.7 on a wideband, w/o messing up
the seating of the rings? if it is possible...
do you think its a bad idea to drive to so cal??
assuming i did have the car tuned w/ my wideband
i would have to drive throught the grapevines
and through the mountains... would this change in
elevation and pressure affect my prior tuning?
Which means i would run in to trouble in the mountains?


so heres a summary: i gotta tune my car but it needs to
be broken in so... should i
A) trailer in all the way there
B) tune in fresno w/ 14.7 and drive through the mountains...
keep on rechipping ecu to accomadate changes in environment..
C) tune in fresno w/ 14.7 and find an alternate route to so cal
w/ similar elevation
or
D) your own suggestion

thats not all the problem i have.... prior to this build i had a gsr
block w/ ctr piston... so i used octane booster.. the nos
silver/black can.... well so i have a half a tank of 91 w/ octane boost
should i just pump more 91 octane to dilute it or should i drive
w/ the octane boost and tune to 14.7 till the gas is empty.. then
pump 91 and retune....

i know this is a long posts... its almost 2 and im bored... and
thought id post this up now so ill be prepared when i get my
motor assembled this month... thanx for your time folks
i appreciate any help... thanks again

 

Follow the ring manufacturer's process for seating them in, some tell you to drive easy for so many miles and some say to let the car idle for so many minutes and there are some that say the run the car real hard a couple times and they should be seated. Depending on what you're supposed to do for your rings I would follow that.

 

i wouldnt worry so much about it. r u boosted or NA. if boosted then dont hit boost until u r tuned. what r u tune n the car with?try to tune for a/f at 13.5-14 at first (thats w/o hit n boost if ur boosted)

 

im dumb, just realized i was in the allmotor section.

just monitor the a/f ratio with ur wideband to make sure u r not run n lean. at idle and at low vacuum (15-24 In/Hg) the car should be at around 14:1-14.7:1 a/f. below that u should try to aim for an a/f of 13.5-13:1

 

so if my a/f was in the 13's i wouldn't have to worry about seating the rings? i heard that the first 20 miles was very critical.. thanx for the post

 

like stated previously, some people do a hard break n and some take it easy. im gonna rebuild my motor next month and will most likely do a easy break n. i'll probably just crank the motor over a couple of times b4 i actually start the car up to get some oil flowing. let it idle for a good 20- 30 mins then take it for a spin and try not to get on the car too much. after 100 miles, i'll just do some short burst up to about 4-5K rpms. then after about 250 miles i'll get on the car really hard.

there's a write up on how to break in a motor. let me see if i can find it.... damn couldnt find it. i coulda sworn i seen it on c-speedracing.com.... guess not

 

are you refering to the break in write up on importbuilders.com?

 

spend the 100$ and trailer it there,

i pick A

dont go cheap on important things

 

that wasnt the site i seen but damn, that was a great explanation.
check it out:
http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

do what i told u, at low throttle position and up to 4K rpms, try to get the a/f ratio as close to 14.7 ( i would be more conservative and aim for low 14's)

that should be good enough for u to drive to the dyno

 

there is a great post on this that i couldnt find because the search is down. ill find it and come back with it when i can