If you are looking into the spark plug hole, is TDC for that cylinder when the piston is it's further point up?

I want to run a leak-down test, but do not want to take the valve cover off...

Gerhard

 

yes. BTW, 4 cylinders have a flat crank, so either #1 & #4 are even, and #2 & #3 are even.

when #1 is at TDC, so is number 4. rotate the engine 180 degrees, and then #2 & #3 will be at TDC.

You can use the flywheel markings through the timing hole to find TDC for #1 & #4.

 

If you are doing a leakdown, you want it at TDC on the compression stroke. You can look at the cam positions, the distributor rotor position, or just do the test and if there is a ton of leakage, turn the engine another 360deg.

 

if thats to difficult for you, pull the spark plug out and stick a long socket extension in the hole. Turn the pully till you see it at the very top.

 

So,

Since #1 & #4 and #2 & #3 both move up and down at the same time... how does this work?

How does the firing work then?

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question366.htm

 

I've got a pretty neat tool that you thread into the sparkplug hole, and then rotate the crank. There is a spring loaded gauge that will show you TDC when you reach it. Got it from Snap-on. Its aaaiiight.

 

here's what you do...

-you take a shop rag (or a small rag) and stick it on the spark plug hole (not all the way in but about half way in to your perspective)..
-start cranking the motor (with either the fuel or ignition system disabled of course) and watch the rag..
-once the rag blows outs, you immediatly stop cranking the motor. (this would indicate the compression stroke of the specific cylinder)
-remove the rag andstick a long screw driver or long skinny rod inside the spark plug hole till it hits the piston head.
-with your eyes focused on the metal rod/screw driver, turn the crank untill the rod goes to its apex.

There are a couple ways to turn the crankshaft.

1) turn the crank bolt using your ratchet
2) put the car in gear and rock the car back and forth. (it'll be a good workout for ya... lol...)

 

Thanks guys...

It that a no brainer... I just wanted to make sure as the only time I've done the blow-by (lead-down) test was with the motor in a stand and the VC off.

I do have the crank tool, but the annoying thing is that in order to use it on the car, you have to lower the engine on the driver's side. So pulley bolt it was...

If I can impose on any of you guys, this problem one of our members is having is weird.

The last page of the thread, with the leak-down results, can be seen here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1142822&page=3

Any input would be greatly appricated.

Gerhard