input on a strut bar design and some other chassis braces
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Alright so my mom gave me a Husky jumpack/aircompressor for my birthday and a 50 dollar gift certificate to The Home Depot. So I made a trip to HD and wasn't sure what I was gonna get there and wasn't in the mood to blow it all on tools. Well I'm walking around and happen to notice a section of steel and alum. material. Hmmm. Then the wheels start turning in my noggin' and I'm like damn I should make a bunch of **** for my car and save myself some cash. So I bought some 1" square tubing since the biggest round tubing wasn't even a 1" in diameter so I picked up like 1-4' piece and a 6' piece and a big piece of angle iron. I got my trusty old wirefeed MIG welder and my chopsaw so what more do I need? lol
Anyways I was at work thinking of designs for a strutbar for my hatch and this is a rough idea I came up with. The angle stock would be bolted to where the upper control arm bolts are on the shock tower. I just thought this would be the easiest since I don't feel like making something to go around the top of the shock like a normal strut tower bar bolts to. THe car isn't boosted anymore and has a fake J's intake so I thought I would update the pic.
Then for the rear I was thinking of make a floor brace from the bolts that hold on the bumper support and have two piece going across and then a c-pillar bar and then connect the two with like a bolt and bracket.
So wasting time and material and won't do anything or be creative and make a fancy clothes hanger in the rear! lol
Anyways I was at work thinking of designs for a strutbar for my hatch and this is a rough idea I came up with. The angle stock would be bolted to where the upper control arm bolts are on the shock tower. I just thought this would be the easiest since I don't feel like making something to go around the top of the shock like a normal strut tower bar bolts to. THe car isn't boosted anymore and has a fake J's intake so I thought I would update the pic.

Then for the rear I was thinking of make a floor brace from the bolts that hold on the bumper support and have two piece going across and then a c-pillar bar and then connect the two with like a bolt and bracket.
So wasting time and material and won't do anything or be creative and make a fancy clothes hanger in the rear! lol
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They also had some AL round tubing but that was also pretty small and I don't know how to weld AL or have gas hookups to run argon. I was thinking of getting a roll of AL wire and mess around MIG'ing AL even though I heard it looks like ***. If it holds good that's all I care about and how would it weld without any gas? I may pick up another cheap MIG welder to have strictly as a AL welder it it holds together pretty good. I'm not looking for something pretty. Just functional.
Bling bling for the ******* paint work y0. it's almost too JDM for me.
That angled peice up is going to firewall is going to be weak. And for the rear, You should just put a cage in y0. that mad jdm d15b is going to fer sure push you into da 11s y0.
No seriously though, I'd had to say just make some strut braces and such and then install that red thing that you have laying around in the garage for the underside. it should be mad tight then y0
That angled peice up is going to firewall is going to be weak. And for the rear, You should just put a cage in y0. that mad jdm d15b is going to fer sure push you into da 11s y0.
No seriously though, I'd had to say just make some strut braces and such and then install that red thing that you have laying around in the garage for the underside. it should be mad tight then y0
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I had the EM's setup in my head for the rear braces. But I don't see why the front strutbar would flex at the firewall? Gimme some reasons why or what to do differently or just some more input.
You have a MIG welder, seam weld.
Id spend the $50 on tools so you can have more of a chance when you go to build something next time. Hell, I spend $50 a month on tools at least out of my whopping $300month paycheck! BAM
Rich
Id spend the $50 on tools so you can have more of a chance when you go to build something next time. Hell, I spend $50 a month on tools at least out of my whopping $300month paycheck! BAM
Rich
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I was thinking about doing some seam welding. Maybe I might just do it since the interior is stripped anyways. Before anyone says why don't you just get a cage and be done with it. I would but I just don't have the funds right now to get one otherwise I would.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJcivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have a MIG welder, seam weld.
Rich</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you know what that intalles?
AT LEAST 4 to 5 hours of prep work if you know how to get the glue off easily then you still have to worry about the undercoating.
Its not somthing that you can just say "lest seem weld my car up today".
every one i know in the club racing ranks says its WAY to much trouble for what what it does.
i think the front one will do good but the back ones design looks week.
Rich</TD></TR></TABLE>
do you know what that intalles?
AT LEAST 4 to 5 hours of prep work if you know how to get the glue off easily then you still have to worry about the undercoating.
Its not somthing that you can just say "lest seem weld my car up today".
every one i know in the club racing ranks says its WAY to much trouble for what what it does.
i think the front one will do good but the back ones design looks week.
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get a 1" solid steel bar...and use it as a lower tie bar...get some longer metric bolts for the rear control arms and whamo...$10 lower tie bar beefier than any aluminum pos....
I also run to 2 trunk bars....one across the rear wall like an itr...and one on the trunk floor using the holes already there for exsting bolts...and just got some longer ones...makes everythingin the rear end nice and tight...
I also run to 2 trunk bars....one across the rear wall like an itr...and one on the trunk floor using the holes already there for exsting bolts...and just got some longer ones...makes everythingin the rear end nice and tight...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a 1" solid steel bar...and use it as a lower tie bar...get some longer metric bolts for the rear control arms and whamo...$10 lower tie bar beefier than any aluminum pos....
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and 50lbs later... lol
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and 50lbs later... lol
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