4th gen with H22 swap. Get up this morning, fire it up, drive through the neighborhood it gets to temp, and click on comes the CEL. I believe I have found the connector behind the stereo console, does it have a yellow connector on the end of it? Any help would be appreciated

 

Thats a good question....I've been having some problems with my prelude also, today is the first time the CEL came on....I saw one behind the radio also, but mine was blue not yellow....i don't know if that was the one though. But anyway, when i turned off the car, it never came back on.....DAMN!! I've been trying to find out whats wrong with my car and the CEL won't come back on.....Also, does the car have to be off when you jump the ecu? Need some help people....

 

The test port on my 96' (OBDII) is located underneath the removable cup holder in front of the center colsole. Its a 16 pin connector.

 

we're talking about OBDI. 92-95

 

The test port on the OBD 1 has a blue and sort of light brown wire going to it and the head (connector) is blue.


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92 Si 4WS JDM H22a

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJBurks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But anyway, when i turned off the car, it never came back on.....DAMN!! I've been trying to find out whats wrong with my car and the CEL won't come back on.....Also, does the car have to be off when you jump the ecu? Need some help people.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

- when you jump the ECU, the car should be off. After the paperclip is inserted, turn the keys to the ON position, but you don't need to start the car.

- when you jump the ECU, it will fash ALL codes that have been thrown since the last ECU reset. (i.e. last time the battery was disconnected). This means that if it throws a CEL once, then goes away, you can still pull the code a week, month, year, etc. later, as long as the ECU is not reset. This also means when you pull the code, you'll probably get several codes (there is simply a pause between each). I'd reset the ECU, drive until it comes back on, and then pull the code.

 

the car was running perfect up until today, and it still idled, just felt sluggish I guess because of being in limp mode. I hope its something small, I baby this damn car, and its a JDM 22 so it doesn't have a million miles on it, compression was 240+ like a month ago. &lt;--has fingers crossed its a dumb sensor

 

Have a look here : http://www.londonautoclub.org/...s.htm

 

thanks hopefully when I get home from work I can give it a shot, I recently cleared the ECU so this should be the only code stored and currently on, should be easy to find. like I said probably something dumb, car has ran great, nothing new parked it last night, fire it up this morning and get this crap.

 

I'm wondering if its coolant related, the light didn't come on until the engine was fully warmed up, I drove it a good 3 miles then it went from the 1/4 mark to 1/2 and light came on a couple seconds later

 

not looking ahead, but vtec related or knock sensor, just from experience.

Mike

 

any reasons why? the knock sensor specifically, the vtec has been working great, but what are causes and effects of knock sensor going out? can I replace it fairly easily? I'm running the P13 and JDM h22

 

Also I can't seem to find this mysterious blue connector behind my console, I can only find a yellow connector with a black and light blue/black stripe connector...any ideas what that goes to and am I getting warm on finding the blue one

 

just marking