I just bought a Go Kart out of total impulse.
Im not really here to gloat just a question.
Could someone recommend a good Kart forum.
Also could I compete in a autocross with this thing? Like at Hollywood Park.
I figured this would be a good beginner project. Maybe if it really sticks and I feel Like spending the $$ I will upgrade to a shifter.
For those who are interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...:MT:6
I should be picking it up today or tomorrow.
Im not even sure if this was a good deal or not. But the price seemed ok compared to other engine/less and accessory/less karts.
Thanks
Could someone recommend a good Kart forum.
Also could I compete in a autocross with this thing? Like at Hollywood Park.
I figured this would be a good beginner project. Maybe if it really sticks and I feel Like spending the $$ I will upgrade to a shifter.
For those who are interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...:MT:6
I should be picking it up today or tomorrow.
Im not even sure if this was a good deal or not. But the price seemed ok compared to other engine/less and accessory/less karts.
Thanks
That's not a shifter with a 125cc engine, so I'm not sure what the rules are about running that kart in the F125 class in autocross. Does that thing have front brakes? I think those are required(?).
http://www.ekartingnews.com. I go to that site becuase I am looking to get into karts. It is a good starting point.
Not a bad price, if everything works as advertised. That's a controlled-spec Yamaha engine (without a trick expansion chamber pipe) that should be fairly economical to run. The Swiss Hutless was a pretty OK chassis back then (just before I was racing karts, actually).
SCCA doesn't have a Solo II class for it (unlike the 125 shifters) but you should be able to find local karting events to run it in.
K
SCCA doesn't have a Solo II class for it (unlike the 125 shifters) but you should be able to find local karting events to run it in.
K
Swiss Hutless is still very much a decent chassis. Tons of support in Europe.
YOu don't hear much about it in North America because they don't really have such an aggressive ad campaign as the big 3 plus some of the AMerican chassis company.
YOu don't hear much about it in North America because they don't really have such an aggressive ad campaign as the big 3 plus some of the AMerican chassis company.
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Thanks for replies. Im really excited to get my hands on this thing. This is one of toys I have wanted sense I was small enough to drive a powerwheels.
http://www.ekartingnews.com
thanks
Do you think they will let me run with the shifter karts at an auto x event just for fun. I would like to upgrade the front spindles so they have brakes regardless if its required or not. Stop is just as important as go.
Im not sure I can upgrade them but I will have to research this some more.
I am a total and complete armature when it comes to racing so I don't really care if I am in a specific class or not. The only thing I have ever done when it comes to racing was a couple passes at lacr.
I think I will get a expansion chamber and exhaust for it. Not sure what is best suited for me but I will ask this question on the other board too.
Thanks for your help.
Also for those who are looking. There were a couple other similar (nicer imo) set ups on eBay for around the same $$ minus some of the running gear (engine). I snapped up this one because it was somewhat complete/local/cheap.
these were the first 2 I could find. There were a few more.
http://cgi.eBay.com/ws/eBayISA...=WDVW
http://cgi.eBay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1
http://www.ekartingnews.com
thanks Do you think they will let me run with the shifter karts at an auto x event just for fun. I would like to upgrade the front spindles so they have brakes regardless if its required or not. Stop is just as important as go.
Im not sure I can upgrade them but I will have to research this some more. I am a total and complete armature when it comes to racing so I don't really care if I am in a specific class or not. The only thing I have ever done when it comes to racing was a couple passes at lacr.
I think I will get a expansion chamber and exhaust for it. Not sure what is best suited for me but I will ask this question on the other board too.
Thanks for your help.
Also for those who are looking. There were a couple other similar (nicer imo) set ups on eBay for around the same $$ minus some of the running gear (engine). I snapped up this one because it was somewhat complete/local/cheap.
these were the first 2 I could find. There were a few more.
http://cgi.eBay.com/ws/eBayISA...=WDVW
http://cgi.eBay.com/ws/eBayISA...&rd=1
Over the past several months I've bought a couple of used karts for my kids and rebuilt them to essentially new status. If I can give you some advice [ my son won his club championship with a European spec motor that is comparable to the KT100, called the JICA class or Jr ICA] :
1. Strip the chassis bare and clean it.
2. Reassemble, replacing worn bolts and nylock nuts.
3. Inspect rear axle, front wheel, front spindle and steering column bearings. Replace where needed.
4. Replace fuel lines and thoroughly clean gas tank. Replace fuel filter. Dissemble carb and clean.
5. Bleed brakes [ easy once you know how ]. If the pads are worn non-parallel, determine why before replacing them.
6. Get some new or decent used rubber. Old useless tires are just that, useless. $200 for Bridgestone YHBs or comparable.
7. Get a copy of series you might run, check the minimum weights as you might need ballast.
8. Find out who distributes parts for the kart, you'll need spares of some components. The motor/clutch is pretty standard. Chassis has unique components although there is alot of commonality in manufactures components.
9. Buy a decent book on karting. Setting up front end [toe, camber, ackerman, height, width] and rear [ height, width], as well as tire pressures, is key to making these things really handle.
I know it sounds like a lot to do but the disassembly and reassembly process will teach you quite a bit and when you're finished, you have a kart in very good mechanical condition. You just have to learn how to drive it!
Let me know if there is anything I can suggest to help you.
Robert J.
1. Strip the chassis bare and clean it.
2. Reassemble, replacing worn bolts and nylock nuts.
3. Inspect rear axle, front wheel, front spindle and steering column bearings. Replace where needed.
4. Replace fuel lines and thoroughly clean gas tank. Replace fuel filter. Dissemble carb and clean.
5. Bleed brakes [ easy once you know how ]. If the pads are worn non-parallel, determine why before replacing them.
6. Get some new or decent used rubber. Old useless tires are just that, useless. $200 for Bridgestone YHBs or comparable.
7. Get a copy of series you might run, check the minimum weights as you might need ballast.
8. Find out who distributes parts for the kart, you'll need spares of some components. The motor/clutch is pretty standard. Chassis has unique components although there is alot of commonality in manufactures components.
9. Buy a decent book on karting. Setting up front end [toe, camber, ackerman, height, width] and rear [ height, width], as well as tire pressures, is key to making these things really handle.
I know it sounds like a lot to do but the disassembly and reassembly process will teach you quite a bit and when you're finished, you have a kart in very good mechanical condition. You just have to learn how to drive it!
Let me know if there is anything I can suggest to help you.
Robert J.
Check the rules of whatever Yamaha class your local club(s) run before you buy a pipe or tires. They vary a bunch and it would be a mistake - I think, anyway - to lock your self out of the possibility of actually running some races.
Think too about stepping up and buying an exhaust temperature gauge and tach. You can adjust the mixture on a Yamaha all you want (and on the fly) and it's entirely possible to get it wrong and hurt the engine. Gauges will help prevent that.
I'd add to the service list above a complete clutch rebuild. Get extra parts in advance and learn how to adjust it before you go out and play! It's really important that you understand that you bought a racing vehicle, not a fun-kart, and clutches in particular make them anything but something you can just take out and play with occasionally without service.
You'll also discover that there are probably some special tools that you'll need if they don't come with the package.
K
EDIT - I wouldn't be surprised if the jury is STILL out on front brakes. Some really fast guys in the NW didn't use them when I was running PSGKA events. There are a lot of things you can do that will make WAY more difference than putting on front rotors, for a LOT less dough.
Think too about stepping up and buying an exhaust temperature gauge and tach. You can adjust the mixture on a Yamaha all you want (and on the fly) and it's entirely possible to get it wrong and hurt the engine. Gauges will help prevent that.
I'd add to the service list above a complete clutch rebuild. Get extra parts in advance and learn how to adjust it before you go out and play! It's really important that you understand that you bought a racing vehicle, not a fun-kart, and clutches in particular make them anything but something you can just take out and play with occasionally without service.
You'll also discover that there are probably some special tools that you'll need if they don't come with the package.
K
EDIT - I wouldn't be surprised if the jury is STILL out on front brakes. Some really fast guys in the NW didn't use them when I was running PSGKA events. There are a lot of things you can do that will make WAY more difference than putting on front rotors, for a LOT less dough.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
Likes: 0
From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
I did a bunch of research into karts for my step-son.
The KT100 is a very common engine. Can be used for adult classes, both sprint (kart track) and enduro (car track) with gearing and other adjustments. Swiss Hutless isn't one of the "big 5" kart chassis (Tony, Birel, CRG, Margay, Trackmagic), but it is a known brand.
SCCA only runs one adult class - Formula 125 - for 125cc shifters, but non-F125 karts are allowed to run. Shifters are required to have brakes at all four wheels. Non-shifters must comply with the specs for the class they were built (WKA, CIK rules). Not all regions have a kart program (it takes special safety training and setup), so check before you show up.
Kids have a few more options, but their rules are in the midst of an overhaul/refinement. Basically, the Briggs WF or Yamaha KT100 are the allowed engines, with throttle stops and carb changes to equalize the two and keep to safe speeds. Not sure how they'll deal with other engines in Formula Junior.
See the kart section for more details:
http://scca.com/_filelibrary/F...s.pdf
The KT100 is a very common engine. Can be used for adult classes, both sprint (kart track) and enduro (car track) with gearing and other adjustments. Swiss Hutless isn't one of the "big 5" kart chassis (Tony, Birel, CRG, Margay, Trackmagic), but it is a known brand.
SCCA only runs one adult class - Formula 125 - for 125cc shifters, but non-F125 karts are allowed to run. Shifters are required to have brakes at all four wheels. Non-shifters must comply with the specs for the class they were built (WKA, CIK rules). Not all regions have a kart program (it takes special safety training and setup), so check before you show up.
Kids have a few more options, but their rules are in the midst of an overhaul/refinement. Basically, the Briggs WF or Yamaha KT100 are the allowed engines, with throttle stops and carb changes to equalize the two and keep to safe speeds. Not sure how they'll deal with other engines in Formula Junior.
See the kart section for more details:
http://scca.com/_filelibrary/F...s.pdf
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
Likes: 0
From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
And that's a pretty reasonable price, assuming the kart starts and the frame isn't bent.
I was looking at a few Margays with KT100s or Briggs Raptors, all set-up for junior classes - most were in the $1000-$1500 range.
Remember, you'll need a collar and suitable clothing to run SCCA events. To run sprints or enduros, you'll need the full set of safety gear (collar, kart suit, back/rib guard).
I was looking at a few Margays with KT100s or Briggs Raptors, all set-up for junior classes - most were in the $1000-$1500 range.
Remember, you'll need a collar and suitable clothing to run SCCA events. To run sprints or enduros, you'll need the full set of safety gear (collar, kart suit, back/rib guard).
In Riverside is Adams Kart Track. The oldest kart track in CA and probably the most famous. http://www.adamskarttrack.com
Great people own the place, head down there, get past the kids, talk to one of the managers and they should be able to set you up.
Great people own the place, head down there, get past the kids, talk to one of the managers and they should be able to set you up.
Awesome info guys thanks allot.
This is really turning into an informative post.
I saw a few bent frames on eBay. Kinda scared me because they look pretty fragile. But my uncle is a welder so if there so any issues we could probably fix it.
The guy I bought it from has some weird hours so hopefully I will get my anxious hands on this thing soon.
Quick question.
Approx how wide and heavy are these things? Im pretty sure this wont fit in my hatch. If its light enough I could put it on a roof rack.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=197117

Modified by _BEN_ at 9:33 AM 3/1/2005
This is really turning into an informative post.
I saw a few bent frames on eBay. Kinda scared me because they look pretty fragile. But my uncle is a welder so if there so any issues we could probably fix it.
The guy I bought it from has some weird hours so hopefully I will get my anxious hands on this thing soon.
Quick question.
Approx how wide and heavy are these things? Im pretty sure this wont fit in my hatch. If its light enough I could put it on a roof rack.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=197117
Modified by _BEN_ at 9:33 AM 3/1/2005
Hahaha....they are usually about 55" wide. I thought about putting one in the back of my integra. Too wide though.
I think a local club that races at Irwindale is
http://www.lakc.org
I think a local club that races at Irwindale is
http://www.lakc.org
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
Likes: 0
From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
A kart normally weighs 125-175lbs, depending on engine and class. Too heavy for one person to lift, but two should be able to get it onto a roof.
anyone else with usefull information? there is a karting track opening here in tucson supposedly the end of march and im really considering picking one up to start racing a little cheaper than say honda challenge.
We used to haul a kart strapped on top of the rollcage of a VW Thing. We put the driver in his suit and helmet and drove into the gate of Seattle International Raceway, telling everyone in the pits that we were doing drag testing on the highway... 
K

K
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think a local club that races at Irwindale is
http://www.lakc.org
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Killer! I wonder if they will let me take a pass at the 1/8th mile.lol
Im fidgeting in my seat I want to go get this thing.
I think a local club that races at Irwindale is
http://www.lakc.org
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Killer! I wonder if they will let me take a pass at the 1/8th mile.lol
Im fidgeting in my seat I want to go get this thing.
I use to have a kart also
A BIREL with that KT100 Yamaha engine. Its a blast, dont for get to a Chest/rib protector, those G's in the corner can easily crack a rib.
My dad's tunes for a couple people in Florida for the winter series.
WASP PERFORMANCE : specializing in 125cc Shifterkart motors
A BIREL with that KT100 Yamaha engine. Its a blast, dont for get to a Chest/rib protector, those G's in the corner can easily crack a rib.
My dad's tunes for a couple people in Florida for the winter series.
WASP PERFORMANCE : specializing in 125cc Shifterkart motors
I have an earlier post about Karting, and after a couple of weeks I am seriously considering of getting rid of my track car and going karting. Personally I think that the best bang for the buck is to go TaG (touch and go) . This kart format is sweeping the industry right now with classes, series and packages. You should be able to convert your kart to one of the TaG engines without too many issues.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Victor Penner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...and after a couple of weeks I am seriously considering of getting rid of my track car and going karting...</TD></TR></TABLE>
WHAAAT?
Seriously considering?
Or SERIOUSLY CONSIDERING?
You kan't be Serious. Give up the RRRRR??? I thought I knew you.
You are obviously in alot of emotional pain....from not driving your RRRRR.
You know what I'd do if I were you? Yep - Drive the RRRR.
Scott, who will soon take his own advice and drive his own RRRR...then everything will be alright again....
WHAAAT?
Seriously considering?
Or SERIOUSLY CONSIDERING?
You kan't be Serious. Give up the RRRRR??? I thought I knew you.
You are obviously in alot of emotional pain....from not driving your RRRRR.
You know what I'd do if I were you? Yep - Drive the RRRR.
Scott, who will soon take his own advice and drive his own RRRR...then everything will be alright again....



