Im trying to set up my RA-1's and dont know how much camber to use. Their site says 2 to 5 deg., but thats pretty vague. What is a good starting point for front and rear? BTW its on a 97 Integra with Koni Yellows and 15x7 wheels, and will be road racing. Thanks for any help.

 

Best is to use a pyrometer to find out what your tire temps are inside/center/outside.

 

All depends on your overall car setup on the suspension and weight balance. Also, the type of road course you will be on will determine how much camber. That's when a log book comes in handy, cause you can make changes and see how they affect your lap times.

I know of one car that ran -4.75 degrees front camber for racing. I think the back was around -2 or -3 degrees.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Best is to use a pyrometer to find out what your tire temps are inside/center/outside.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Toyo's web site says:
"- The degree of negative camber required to get the most performance out of the RA1 can often lead to inside shoulder wear. "

Wouldn't this mean that the inside temp would be higher than the rest, when you were getting the "most performance" out of the tire?

 

I'm not sure what they intend by that sentence but my interpretation would be that, by putting enough negative camber into them that they work really well on the track, one would see abnormal inside-edge wear on the street.

Roll centers and stiffness, suspension geometry, and a bunch of other factors influence camber needs. That is typically adjusted after spring and ARB rates, and toe - but before damping, and tweaked tire pressures.

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bosco500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wouldn't this mean that the inside temp would be higher than the rest, when you were getting the "most performance" out of the tire?
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Yeah, because in a straight line you'll be riding more on the edge, but in the corner you'll have more contact area and be able to corner harder.

Its a trade off of handling vs. wear. If you want even wear, you aren't going to have as good of handling on the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure what they intend by that sentence but my interpretation would be that, by putting enough negative camber into them that they work really well on the track, one would see abnormal inside-edge wear on the street.

Roll centers and stiffness, suspension geometry, and a bunch of other factors influence camber needs. That is typically adjusted after spring and ARB rates, and toe - but before damping, and tweaked tire pressures.

K</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd attribute some of my inside edge tire wear to spinning the inside tire in a corner, well a bit anyway with the LSD. I guess that depends on drive configuration, YMMV, etc.

-Chris

 

if a little camber is good.......then alot must be more gooder.......-10*!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure what they intend by that sentence but my interpretation would be that, by putting enough negative camber into them that they work really well on the track, one would see abnormal inside-edge wear on the street.
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What this means is tire life on the track will be significantly diminished when using what they consider optimal negative camber.