Im looking into getting a K20A for an EG hatch, and need to know a few things. I searched around here and a few other sites but didnt really find much detailed info I was looking for on a few specific things.

What axles should be used in a K series EG swap?
What shift linkage needs to be used, or custom?
How difficult is the wiring harness swap into an EG?

any links with info would also be appeciated.

 

k20a.org is prob the best website for that info...

you can use a combination of stock DC5/DC2 axles or you can purchase hasport/hybrid racing axles... you can use the stock shifter cables, it just won't fit under the center console yet.

and the wiring harness is not too hard, there are several companies that have PNP harnesses (R-crew,hasport, hybrid racing)

 

yeah I browsed K20a.org but didnt immediately find anything. Ill dig deeper.

what do you mean by "combonation" DC5/DC2 axles? one for driver, and one for pass?

thanks a lot for the info



Modified by RTW Ryan at 12:11 PM 2/24/2005

 

The swap is similar in difficulty to an H22 swap,though the wiring of the K is slightly more difficult because there is more of it.With the Pnp harnesses out right now,wiring is much less difficult.

The "combo of dc5/dc2 axles" means dc5 inners and dc2 outers with a dc2 or dc5 shaft.
Stock rsx shifter cables are the way to go.You can use the '95ish accord or RSX shifter box.

K20A.org has all of the info..if you cant find it,ask again and someone will answer your question or give you the links to other threads with the answers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW Ryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you mean by "combonation" DC5/DC2 axles? one for driver, and one for pass? </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry i didnt make that clearer... it was posted on k20a.org and i just summarized it... take the dc5 inners and use the dc2 outers that go into the hub...

someone also posted this:
"drivers side- stock k series inner hub, and shaft, with outter b series hub.
pass side- stock b series outter hub, prelude shaft(92+), k series inner"

good luck

 

gracias

 

http://www.hybrid-racing.com/articles.html

These tech articles should answer alot of your questions.

Like stated before, anything not answered there can most likely be found on K20a.org with a little digging.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fred n J’s_1.8’s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry i didnt make that clearer... it was posted on k20a.org and i just summarized it... take the dc5 inners and use the dc2 outers that go into the hub...

someone also posted this:
"drivers side- stock k series inner hub, and shaft, with outter b series hub.
pass side- stock b series outter hub, prelude shaft(92+), k series inner"

good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or.. get 36mm 5lug and run stock rsx axles.

Even w/ the 'custom axles' it'll take a **** on you about every few months, since the axle is slightly too long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vita-Soy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Or.. get 36mm 5lug and run stock rsx axles.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

put the RSX suspension on the EG? is that what you are saying??

Thanks for the link Goatsterrman

 

If i were you I would think long and hard about the k swap. I am not downing it in any way but it is costly. Just ball park figures if you buy everything from one company: Mounts 650.00, driveshafts from Hasport= 499.00 Hasport stated that no factory honda axles would work, the harness cost something like 499.99, you can not use the factory exhaust manifold because it will not clear the rear crossmember. That is another 300 or more for a header. I can get a rsx type s swap for 3800.
That comes to 5748.00 not including the fuel system mods, or labor to install it.
Seems a little high for a little over 200hp.
Look into a jdm type R swap, bolt it , rev it to 9k, and go have some fun.


Modified by BigBlockH22atch at 4:26 PM 2/24/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigBlockH22atch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If i were you I would think long and hard about the k swap. I am not downing it in any way but it is costly. Just ball park figures if you buy everything from one company: Mounts 650.00, driveshafts from Hasport= 499.00 Hasport stated that no factory honda axles would work, the harness cost something like 499.99, you can not use the factory exhaust manifold because it will not clear the rear crossmember. That is another 300 or more for a header. I can get a rsx type s swap for 3800.
That comes to 5748.00 not including the fuel system mods, or labor to install it.
Seems a little high for a little over 200hp.
Look into a jdm type R swap, bolt it , rev it to 9k, and go have some fun.


Modified by BigBlockH22atch at 4:26 PM 2/24/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

Umm... I get mounts for 500.

Stock RSX axles work if you have the 36mm 5lug as I stated.

Lets say you get a nice header like DTR.. $1000.

Harness is $300, if you order mounts from hybrid comes w/ a free harness.

Mounts- $500
Harness- $300 (if using hasport, hybrid is included)
Axles- $0 (if you have 36mm jdm itr 5lug, which runs about 500-1000)
Header- $1000

+$1800 + cost of motor.

I wanna see a jdm itr motor w/ just a header hit over 200whp.

Its not all about the #'s, you get a 6spd tranny, reliability, and K-series is more responsive to bolt-on than a b-series would be.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigBlockH22atch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If i were you I would think long and hard about the k swap. I am not downing it in any way but it is costly. Just ball park figures if you buy everything from one company: Mounts 650.00, driveshafts from Hasport= 499.00 Hasport stated that no factory honda axles would work, the harness cost something like 499.99, you can not use the factory exhaust manifold because it will not clear the rear crossmember. That is another 300 or more for a header. I can get a rsx type s swap for 3800.
That comes to 5748.00 not including the fuel system mods, or labor to install it.
Seems a little high for a little over 200hp.
Look into a jdm type R swap, bolt it , rev it to 9k, and go have some fun.


Modified by BigBlockH22atch at 4:26 PM 2/24/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1098040

obviously you didn't see the thread I posted....

 

It is just a matter of time. The truth about how unreasonable the K swaps are,will be out soon

 

Like I said. I AM NOT DOWNING THE K SWAP. I just think it is a little costly. I happen to have a friend with a K20 in his integra. It ran great but he paid a lot of money for the stuff and guess what. He gets out ran alot by B and H swapped cars. Two months into owning the swap in the car he dropped a valve, now he is looking for another long block. If he would have gone with a B or an H he would be back on the road already. The swap imo is exspensive and not as easy to access as some others.
Goatsterrman,
I am glad you have sourced a cheaper alternative to the swap because imo that is the biggest downfall to the swap.

 

Well what do you expect for a 2002+ engine?The cost really isnt that high when you consider all of the extra parts included in the swap,compared to say a gsr swap.
The type s engines are about $500 more than a gsr engine.Add a few hundred max on top of the gsr swap,and youll have it running in an eg.But it'll be bone stock.
The type s swap requires a little over $2000 of extra parts to get it running in an EG.
But,you'll have an aftermarket header,type r ecu,aftermarket mounts and axles,aftermarket fuel system,aftermarket adaptor harness and a bunch of other misc. parts.
The price of the gsr swap would jump up to around the same as the K swap if those parts were upgraded.Its cheaper to get the gsr engine in,yes.But not so cheap to get the same performance as the K20a2.

In the end,you get what you pay for.

 

Hey, it is not for everyone... There are only around 250 cars in our galaxy ( lol) (eg or ek) with K series mounts.

It will get cheaper though.

 

Thanks everyone for the input.

Cost isnt really an issue at this point. The car is on a budget but we think we have it covered pretty well. Goatsterrman's kit is perfect and will take a lot of the hassle out of trying to piece the car together separately. Thats worth money in itself if you ask me.

Ive seen the K20A for as low as 5000. Throw in the parts kit, and you have a pretty sick K20A hatch for 7500. Sure you could probably do a B series cheaper. In some cases a lot cheaper if you run it bone stock. But lets face it. The B is on the way out, old technology and it's potential is maxed. The K is new ground with yet to be determined potential. And it wont take long before companies flood the market with parts, discount stores, and other things that make working with B series so easy. Its only a matter of time and I dont have a problem jumping on the bandwagon early in the game.

 

Don't forget about the k20a2. The cams that are out for it give it a lot of power.

I am talking about crower, IPS and the upcoming skunk2 cams that are almost out.

K20a2 type s swap + $800 quaife LSD + $1000 cams = or better than stock k20a

You end up with a better LSD, and bigger cams. The difference is like the c1 vs the c5.

 

yeah but can you run those bigger cams on the stock ECU or need something like VAFC or maybe even a standalone setup?

Im not too familiar with the K series motor codes. K20A is the JDM ITR motor, and the K20A2 is the USDM RSX S motor? I think I would be more interested in the one that has a better stock head since it probably wont get modded for awhile. I dont think we want to go all out with mods just yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMotive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well what do you expect for a 2002+ engine?The cost really isnt that high when you consider all of the extra parts included in the swap,compared to say a gsr swap.
The type s engines are about $500 more than a gsr engine.Add a few hundred max on top of the gsr swap,and youll have it running in an eg.But it'll be bone stock.
The type s swap requires a little over $2000 of extra parts to get it running in an EG.
But,you'll have an aftermarket header,type r ecu,aftermarket mounts and axles,aftermarket fuel system,aftermarket adaptor harness and a bunch of other misc. parts.
The price of the gsr swap would jump up to around the same as the K swap if those parts were upgraded.Its cheaper to get the gsr engine in,yes.But not so cheap to get the same performance as the K20a2.

In the end,you get what you pay for.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didnt really look at it that way. I guess everybody gets schooled once and a while. Thanks for enhancing my point of view.
We actuallly have a customer here at the shop who is looking into the K20 in a crx. Any additional info on that? Mount kit, harness, axles, and such?

 

Hasport has just released the mount kit for th K crx.I dont believe anything else has been released though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigBlockH22atch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K20 in a crx. Any additional info on that? Mount kit, harness, axles, and such?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you dont look around much do you?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1154676

^^ Hasport's EF K-Series mount kit

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW Ryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah but can you run those bigger cams on the stock ECU or need something like VAFC or maybe even a standalone setup?

Im not too familiar with the K series motor codes. K20A is the JDM ITR motor, and the K20A2 is the USDM RSX S motor? </TD></TR></TABLE>

you got it with the motor codes... you will need to run either a K20A ecu or a reflashed or k-pro'ed a2 ecu, as far as i know

 

Personally I'd get a K20A-2
I have a K20A-R and unless your willing to spend alot of time installing cams and getting VTC killer set-ups in your car you cant upgrade the cams without the Type S (k20A2) pistons. I have almost NO Vavle to Piston clearance left in my motor. Although i do now have 262whp and 176ft lbs. with a stock block. ported head, crower cams and vavles, ITB's, DTR Header.

 

OK well this is sort of going to be a project for a buddy of mine, and Im not sure how deep he wants to get as far as tuning and aftermarket. We will discuss it some and see what he thinks. If we didnt intend on modding it too much, we should just stick with the K20A right? My sister actually had a Type S and to be honest I was rather disappointed with it in stock trim (compared to my ITR anyway).

 

I'd go w/ a K20a2 and tune it more agressively rather than detuning the K20A(r).

So far detuning the K20A hasn't been working out too well, spun bearings is a big issue. I bet its from detonation from the detune.

K20a2 comes w/ 11:1 CR thats perfect for the street and you can still throw in a cam later down the line w/ 11:1.

its like when you build a b-series.. would you go w/ a gsr block or itr block? gsr, its more cost effiecient.