Reading all the issues with headlifting (I was a victim myself), I'm not sure if I want to invest in the SOHC if it's going to blow headgaskets left and right.

I am pondering picking up a B16, LS/VTEC or GSR swap and turboing that instead. Naturally, I would replace the water pump, timing belt, clutch (ACT XTSS ), headstuds (ARP) and HG (InlinePro or stock) before dropping it in and tuning it.

If you had a mainly street car, which would you go for?

Hopefully this doesn't get TOO ugly.

 

i've never had a head lifting problem

people are just retarded

believe what you want to believe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've never had a head lifting problem

people are just retarded

believe what you want to believe</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I guess I'm retarded because my head lifted and blew my HG?

I put in ARP headstuds, checked the block surface checked, had the head rebuilt/resurfaced, ARP lube, 3-step torqued to 65 lbs, copper spray on OEM HG, and no problems for 6 months.

But I'm worried about having this problem on a built motor like others.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So I guess I'm retarded because my head lifted and blew my HG?

I put in ARP headstuds, checked the block surface checked, had the head rebuilt/resurfaced, ARP lube, 3-step torqued to 65 lbs, copper spray on OEM HG, and no problems for 6 months.

But I'm worried about having this problem on a built motor like others. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i use 80lbs; never blew or lifted an oe composite or MLS head gasket.
and its not like i had great tunes either; i've busted 7.5 ringlands of the 12 pistons i've ever used. The only 4 i didnt blow was because the motor spun a bearing before it had even 30 miles on it; oops....

 

I am pondering the same question myself right now. I think I am going to pick up a B series block and just add to it here and there. And about time the single cam goes.. the b series will be done.. hopefully. I drive nicely.

 

I just did a completley built GSR motor for my street car, if I could go back, I would do a stock GSR turbo, just less of a headache I guess. I'm really paranoid about every little noise in my car so a built motor just isn't for me at this time. I spent all my money on it and I am only 18, so I am constantly freaking out. It's too late to sell it, don't want to lose alot of money, so I am going to stick with it for a while. After this motor I either wanna do a high-compression GSR motor turbo(i'm so jealous of Tony the Tiger ) or get something totally different. Hope I helped you some.

 

unless your headstuds were not torqued correctly or used multiple times i would find it hard to believe your head lifted and caused the leakage between the headgasket and the head or block. it most likely was due to the constant movement between the head, headgasket and block that caused the leak and tha fact that you were running boost and getting thing much hotter than when the motor was NA.

i would say 300HP or less go with a built SOHC. will be more reliable "if done correctly". stock piston ringlands don't take kindly to any detonation. just my opinion.

 

I had that problem on my sohc too, as well as a buddy of mine. Surfaced within the first couple days I was turbo. People are not just completley retarded, I have seen MANY cases like this but it seems it was all on the original headgasket from when the motor was built in the factory :shrugs:

Replaced the HG and it was fine until I took the setup apart because of the timing belt jumping. My friend's situation was the same, he replaced the HG, put ARP's in and the problem never came back until the motor went kaboom.

I'm personally going with a stock b16a turbo now. After toying with the ideas of different setups and buying parts for them I finally settled on this. Plus the shortblocks are cheap and easy to get.

Car isn't a daily driver though so I'm not really too concerned with longevity heh.

 

Z6/A6 mini-me. Y8 metal headgasket (no copper spray) with reused stock head BOLTS.

Its been fine for a while now on 10psi.

 

i've blown my headgasket 3 times so far on my y8. Even with arp headstuds and a resurfaced head. The block surface is the next thing I will check when it probably blows again. I'm still sticking sohc though...its just so much cheaper

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've blown my headgasket 3 times so far on my y8. Even with arp headstuds and a resurfaced head. The block surface is the next thing I will check when it probably blows again. I'm still sticking sohc though...its just so much cheaper </TD></TR></TABLE>

True, but LS and B16 shortblocks are pretty damn cheap if you ask me.

B16 head complete for 500, B16 tranny for 500, etc.

 

I lost a head gasket when I went for broke on the dyno last year, 25psi on pump gas 406whp@ 6000rpm. It detonated and lifted the head.

I made several pulls before that at 22psi with no problem. 418WHP@7500rpm

I took my car out a while ago and put it to the test. 28psi runnning Sunoco GT Plus. Made about five hard tugs. Not one drop of coolant in the overflow. Problem solved also I'm using a Cometic HG.

Don't lose faith in the D's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True, but LS and B16 shortblocks are pretty damn cheap if you ask me.

B16 head complete for 500, B16 tranny for 500, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, but then you have to buy the mounts and everything else that goes along with the b series...plus for me i'd want to change my entire setup. I got too much invested in the damn d series right now

 

before my sohc t got stolen, my head was starting to lift. now granted it had 143,000 miles and reused stock headstuds, but it was only 6ish psi. i went with the stock block ls thing. should have it boosted within a month.

ls blocks are damn cheap. i picked up a spare one with 99k miles for 250, and i just got another one for free with a hatch i just bought. the mounts are expensive, but once you front out the money, you dont have to do it again and can put any b series in you would want to.

i still love the d though. im lookin to put a z6 in my 91 dx. we will see if the future holds a low boost setup on this one

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

True, but LS and B16 shortblocks are pretty damn cheap if you ask me.

B16 head complete for 500, B16 tranny for 500, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Z6 head complete for 100, Z6 tranny for 50, D15 shortblock for 200....many parts free