I know hyabusa ITBs are bigger , I belive 46mm, but are they any wider the the cbr's and gsxr's? Due to the wider H series head, I was just wanting to know if anyone has any experience with them?

 

im glad I am the only H owner here

 

cant expect answers in one day.. did god create the earth in a day? did rome build itself in a day? thats just hte way h-t goes.

anyway good post i too would like to see some answers. bump.

 

thanks for the bump guess its a rather rare topic, not being b series and all

 

bump...info...needed

 

Well I don't have any direct info, but I do think the 'busa ITB's are wider than the 750/1000's, but I doubt they are going to match up perfectly. But, that isn't necessarily a bad thing. They are a "modular" type of TB Unlike the Honda's which are cast as pairs), so they can be unbolted and have spacers added inbetween them to get them to the right spacing.

It is a pretty easy deal, and you only need to get 9 spacers made that are the right height. The trick is getting the linkages between the ITB's to move the same amount. I just bent my GSX-R 750 linkages a little (~5mm each side) to get them to make up the 10mm difference, and there was still a few mm left that I could go more, so as long as the H22, isn't way wider than the 'busa spread, you should be alright...

Let me know if you need more info/diagrams.
Adrian

 

thanks for the info...what are you doing about the tps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22a193 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the info...what are you doing about the tps</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Suzuki TPS will work just fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The Suzuki TPS will work just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I second that.

Yeah, I used it on my GSX-R 750's and it worked fine, but I did have to remove the little metal spacer inside the obround hole to get it to read a low enough voltage (.47-.49V at idle with the car on, about .42V with the car off) to run good with the factory ECU. I think the Hondata, Chrome, etc. guys can get it to work at the more normal .5V, but it stumbled a lot when I had it there on the factory ECU.

Suzuki TPS A lot easier to install and keep set, and works just fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCsideracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Suzuki TPS A lot easier to install and keep set, and works just fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to mention it isn't the eyesore that the ghetto-mounted OEM TPS is.

 

Good info thanx fellas

 

doing DIY busa ITB's for my H22 as we speak. yes the busa throttle bodies have to be spaced out. I spaced mine out according to injector placement (I think about 13MM spacing if I remember right) since I am installing injectors on the throttle bodys rather than factory Honda location. Good luck. Mine will be done shortly.

 

they real hayabusea is 46 at the plate. same with gsxr 1300. the 1000 are 42 mm.
i have the 46mm and mine seperate. i use them on a b16 manifold with welded straight runners. an i had to seperate eeach tb like .4 inch or so.. so the way i look at it youll have to seperate them anyways so theyll fit your head as good as the fit mine.

 

good info....so where are you guys gettinf the velocity stacks, and usally how long are you making them? Also where do I get spacers? , and how are the the lingages still conected with the spacers?

 

I made my own spacers on a lathe. They had a recess on one end, and a raised boss on the other, and were 10mm tall to go from the 80mm spread (GSX-R) to the 90mm spread (B18C). Some people just used washers to make the spacers, but I wanted to assure the rods stayed centered, so I made them fit each other.

The linkages were bent as you can see in the pic, to take up the difference. The only issue I had to worry about on what I was doing it making sure the corners of the bent linkage weren't rubbing, and that the adjusting screw stayed pretty square to the mating linkage. Other than that, it only took me a few minutes to get the linkages adjusted properly.



Having done my own set now, and after busting my **** to get the butterflies syncronized, I have a hint... make a 180 degree phillips head screw driver, so you can adjust the screws from the top of the engine, and not have to reach under the car or anything. I just made mine from a cheap a$$, #1 philips screwdriver, and bent it around a 1/8" piece of steel in a vise.

Syncronizing them made a huge difference in the off idle characteristics of the ITB's. No stuttering, missing, or otherwise. You prolly wnat to get a bike shop to tune them for you, or invest in some pretty accurate vacuum gauges. I just used 2 gauges that read the same value on the same TB, and tried to get the other 3 to match the "reference" TB (far left one in most cases) (I couldn't get 4 guages to read close enough to each other, so it was faster just to leave one fixed (far left) and move the second gauge to the other locations). That prolly makes no sense, but I might be better able to 'splain it if some one cares to know...